Research > Research Inventory > Bioenergetics: The Association of Physiology and Technique
A Time-Motion and Error Analysis of Speed Climbing in the 2019 IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup Final Rounds
Authors: Chen R, Liu Z, Li Y, Gao J. | Year: 2022
Summary: The authors analyzed 384 climbs from the 2019 World Cup finals to break down how elite men and women move through the four route sections and where their mistakes actually occur. Women’s times in the first three sections rose and fell together, while men’s section times were mostly independent; crucially, women made almost half their errors in the final section (P4), whereas men spread their errors more evenly but slipped most often in P2. Because this is observational video analysis, the authors recommend that men emphasize phase-specific explosive work and that women emphasize full-route power and late-route stability.
Reference: Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2022 May 15;19(10):6003. doi: 10.3390/ijerph19106003
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9141212
Effect of Climbing Speed on Pulmonary Oxygen Uptake and Muscle Oxygen Saturation Dynamics in the Finger Flexors
Authors: Gajdošík J, Baláš J, Krupková D, Psohlavec L, Draper N. | Year: 2021
Summary: The study examined how different climbing speeds affect whole-body oxygen use and forearm oxygen saturation during steady 4-minute climbs on the same easy route. Faster climbing consistently raised systemic oxygen demand, while only intermediate climbers showed meaningful drops in finger-flexor oxygenation. The authors suggest speed can be used to build general aerobic fitness, but localized forearm adaptations likely require manipulating hold size or wall angle, noting that the easy treadwall route limits how well these results translate to more technical climbs.
Beta-Angel Note: Advanced climbers may still develop forearm aerobic adaptations from speed—but only if the climb itself is mechanically harder.
Reference: Int J Sports Physiol Perform. Ahead of print. doi:10.1123/ijspp.2021-0110
Not Open Source: https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2021-0110
Change in geometric entropy with repeated ascents in rock climbing
Authors: Watts, P. B., España-Romero, V., Ostrowski, M. L., & Jensen, R. L. | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: This study tested whether geometric entropy—the geometric index of entropy (GIE), defined as movement of the center of mass away from an “ideal” trajectory for the route—decreases with repeated ascents of the same route. It also examined energy expenditure (EE), analyzed from expired air and its fraction of oxygen. Nine climbers (5.11a–5.12b; IRCRA ~14–19) completed nine indoor ascents, with data analyzed at ascents 1, 3, 6, and 9. GIE significantly decreased between ascent 1 and ascent 6, indicating improved movement efficiency with practice (up to a point). EE was positively correlated with GIE (r = 0.67), showing that more scattered movement patterns required more energy.
Training Implications: Repeated ascents of the same route can reduce geometric entropy and improve efficiency, with most gains occurring by the 6th ascent. Coaches may consider tracking center-of-mass consistency (e.g., through video, sensors) to gauge technical improvement beyond just completion.
Beta Angel note: It’s important to note the authors’ caveat (from the 1994 study by Cordier) that some highly skilled climbers have higher levels of geometric entropy compared to lower-skilled climbers, possibly because certain complex movements increase the overall center-of-mass trajectory. As a result, while geometric entropy may reflect energy cost, it may not be a reliable proxy for efficiency in all movement contexts or climbers.
Reference: Watts, P. B., España-Romero, V., Ostrowski, M. L., & Jensen, R. L. (2019). Change in geometric entropy with repeated ascents in rock climbing. Sports Biomechanics, 20(8), 1031–1040. [https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/14763141.2019.1635636]
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The effect of technique and ability on the VO2–heart rate relationship in rock climbing
AUTHORS: Dickson, T., Draper, N., Eltom, M., Stoner, L., Blackwell, G. | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured time spent in isometric contraction, rest time, pre-climb anxiety, heart rate, and VO2 responses in 22 intermediate and advanced climbers on climbs near maximum. While intermediate climbers appeared to be impacted more by the route based on the heart rate to oxygen consumption ratio, advanced climbers spent more time in isometric contraction, but also more time resting their arms. Researchers do not believe anxiety played a part in the differences between intermediate and advanced climbers, and further believe the increased rest and tactical route decisions mitigated the impact of the isometric contractions through increased forearm blood flow. Beta Angel note: follow-up to studies showing disproportionate heart rate rise vs. VO2, possibly due to increased time in isometric contraction, anxiety, and possible presence of enhanced blood flow and oxygen delivery
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012 – Issue 3-4
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.755538
Influence of climbing style on physiological responses during indoor rock climbing on routes with the same difficulty
AUTHORS: B. de Geus, S. Villaneuva O’Driscoll, R. Meeusen | Year: 2006
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers looked at 15 expert climbers to compare the physical effect (cardiorespiratory) of a treadmill test and success on four routes with different environmental factors (e.g. steepness and vertical vs. horizontal movement) but a similar degree of difficulty. The traversing route requiring horizontal movement required less oxygen, while steeper routes with vertical movement increased the climbers’ heart rates but (surprisingly) overhanging routes did not appear to affect heart rate and oxygen uptake significantly over vertical routes.
REFERENCE: Eur J Appl Physiol. 2006 Nov;98(5):489-96.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/6772827_Influence_of_climbing_style_on_physiological_responses_during_indoor_rock_climbing_on_routes_with_the_same_difficulty