Research > Research Inventory > Bioenergetics: The Association of Physiology and Technique
Assessing climbers’ pull-up capabilities by differentiating the parameters involved in power production
Authors: Devise M, Quaine F, Vigouroux L | Year: 2023
Summary: This study tested 28 advanced to elite climbers using (1) explosive pull-up jumps performed with and without body coordination, (2) incrementally weighted pull-ups to derive force–velocity profiles, and (3) maximum-repetition pull-ups to fatigue. Climbing level was related to force capacity (one-repetition maximum, theoretical maximum force), fatigue resistance (total work and repetitions), and coordinated pull-up performance, but not to arm-only explosive pulling or theoretical maximum movement speed. These findings suggest pull-up testing is most informative when it captures strength, endurance, and coordination together, though results are constrained by laboratory-style pull-ups rather than on-wall climbing.
Beta-angel note: Testing only strict, arms-only pull-ups may underestimate actual climbing-relevant ability because it removes coordination effects. Additionally, velocity looks like either (a) an inter-individual performance characteristic important for some but not others, or put another way: (b) a style variable, not a performance limiter: climbers can differ widely in speed yet climb equally hard.
Reference: PeerJ. 2023 Sep 26;11:e15886. doi:10.7717/peerj.15886
Open Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10540777/
Performance indicators in speed climbing: insights from the literature supplemented by a video analysis and expert interviews
Authors: Hosseini S, Wolf P | Year: 2023
Summary: This paper combined a targeted review of speed climbing studies with Olympic finals video review and expert interviews to identify what most separates faster runs on the standardized route. Across sources, better performance aligned with higher lower-limb power, efficient anaerobic supply, lower body mass index, and smoother, straighter movement with accurate foot placements and fewer slips (tactical notes: most elites used the “Tomoa” skip start; women more often used brief hand-pairing and sometimes contacted hold 4 for stability; men were advised to avoid hand-pairing and keep the sequence more ladder-like). These ideas could steer training toward power plus repeatable sequencing, though evidence is limited by mixed study quality and non-experimental methods.
Reference: Front Sports Act Living. 2023 Dec 22;5:1304403. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1304403
Open Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10766694/
Road to Paris 2024: force-velocity profile in different speed climbers’ abilities
Authors: Muñoz de la Cruz VM, Carranza VR, González Ravé JM. | Year: 2023
Summary: This speed climbing study compared force–velocity testing in pull-ups and back squats between international (n=9) and national (n=17) athletes to see what best tracks faster wall times. International climbers showed higher estimated maximal pull-up force and higher one-repetition-maximum pull-ups, and the authors suggest national climbers prioritize heavier-load pull-up strength work. Squat metrics did not separate levels, but that finding may be constrained by the barbell test choice and the very small international women’s sample (n=2). (PubMed)
Reference: Biol Sport. 2024;41(2):131–137. doi:10.5114/biolsport.2024.131824 (PubMed)
Open Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10955744/ (PMC)
A Time-Motion and Error Analysis of Speed Climbing in the 2019 IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup Final Rounds
Authors: Chen R, Liu Z, Li Y, Gao J. | Year: 2022
Summary: The authors analyzed 384 climbs from the 2019 World Cup finals to break down how elite men and women move through the four route sections and where their mistakes actually occur. Women’s times in the first three sections rose and fell together, while men’s section times were mostly independent; crucially, women made almost half their errors in the final section (P4), whereas men spread their errors more evenly but slipped most often in P2. Because this is observational video analysis, the authors recommend that men emphasize phase-specific explosive work and that women emphasize full-route power and late-route stability.
Reference: Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2022 May 15;19(10):6003. doi: 10.3390/ijerph19106003
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9141212
Effect of Climbing Speed on Pulmonary Oxygen Uptake and Muscle Oxygen Saturation Dynamics in the Finger Flexors
Authors: Gajdošík J, Baláš J, Krupková D, Psohlavec L, Draper N. | Year: 2021
Summary: The study examined how different climbing speeds affect whole-body oxygen use and forearm oxygen saturation during steady 4-minute climbs on the same easy route. Faster climbing consistently raised systemic oxygen demand, while only intermediate climbers showed meaningful drops in finger-flexor oxygenation. The authors suggest speed can be used to build general aerobic fitness, but localized forearm adaptations likely require manipulating hold size or wall angle, noting that the easy treadwall route limits how well these results translate to more technical climbs.
Beta-Angel Note: Advanced climbers may still develop forearm aerobic adaptations from speed—but only if the climb itself is mechanically harder.
Reference: Int J Sports Physiol Perform. Ahead of print. doi:10.1123/ijspp.2021-0110
Not Open Source: https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2021-0110
Change in geometric entropy with repeated ascents in rock climbing
Authors: Watts, P. B., España-Romero, V., Ostrowski, M. L., & Jensen, R. L. | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: This study tested whether geometric entropy—the geometric index of entropy (GIE), defined as movement of the center of mass away from an “ideal” trajectory for the route—decreases with repeated ascents of the same route. It also examined energy expenditure (EE), analyzed from expired air and its fraction of oxygen. Nine climbers (5.11a–5.12b; IRCRA ~14–19) completed nine indoor ascents, with data analyzed at ascents 1, 3, 6, and 9. GIE significantly decreased between ascent 1 and ascent 6, indicating improved movement efficiency with practice (up to a point). EE was positively correlated with GIE (r = 0.67), showing that more scattered movement patterns required more energy.
Training Implications: Repeated ascents of the same route can reduce geometric entropy and improve efficiency, with most gains occurring by the 6th ascent. Coaches may consider tracking center-of-mass consistency (e.g., through video, sensors) to gauge technical improvement beyond just completion.
Beta Angel note: It’s important to note the authors’ caveat (from the 1994 study by Cordier) that some highly skilled climbers have higher levels of geometric entropy compared to lower-skilled climbers, possibly because certain complex movements increase the overall center-of-mass trajectory. As a result, while geometric entropy may reflect energy cost, it may not be a reliable proxy for efficiency in all movement contexts or climbers.
Reference: Watts, P. B., España-Romero, V., Ostrowski, M. L., & Jensen, R. L. (2019). Change in geometric entropy with repeated ascents in rock climbing. Sports Biomechanics, 20(8), 1031–1040. [https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/14763141.2019.1635636]
Access: Paywall
The effect of technique and ability on the VO2–heart rate relationship in rock climbing
AUTHORS: Dickson, T., Draper, N., Eltom, M., Stoner, L., Blackwell, G. | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured time spent in isometric contraction, rest time, pre-climb anxiety, heart rate, and VO2 responses in 22 intermediate and advanced climbers on climbs near maximum. While intermediate climbers appeared to be impacted more by the route based on the heart rate to oxygen consumption ratio, advanced climbers spent more time in isometric contraction, but also more time resting their arms. Researchers do not believe anxiety played a part in the differences between intermediate and advanced climbers, and further believe the increased rest and tactical route decisions mitigated the impact of the isometric contractions through increased forearm blood flow. Beta Angel note: follow-up to studies showing disproportionate heart rate rise vs. VO2, possibly due to increased time in isometric contraction, anxiety, and possible presence of enhanced blood flow and oxygen delivery
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012 – Issue 3-4
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.755538
Influence of climbing style on physiological responses during indoor rock climbing on routes with the same difficulty
AUTHORS: B. de Geus, S. Villaneuva O’Driscoll, R. Meeusen | Year: 2006
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers looked at 15 expert climbers to compare the physical effect (cardiorespiratory) of a treadmill test and success on four routes with different environmental factors (e.g. steepness and vertical vs. horizontal movement) but a similar degree of difficulty. The traversing route requiring horizontal movement required less oxygen, while steeper routes with vertical movement increased the climbers’ heart rates but (surprisingly) overhanging routes did not appear to affect heart rate and oxygen uptake significantly over vertical routes.
REFERENCE: Eur J Appl Physiol. 2006 Nov;98(5):489-96.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/6772827_Influence_of_climbing_style_on_physiological_responses_during_indoor_rock_climbing_on_routes_with_the_same_difficulty