Science and Community

Research > Science and Community

Communities of climbers should have the chance to discuss and weigh in on the practical implications of research! Here, you will find the collaborative work that the Beta Angel Project engages in with climbing communities from around the world.  It usually starts with a request based on what the community needs, and then we go from there.

Please note: these articles are often “reports” of research.   It’s important for you to consider that they may include challenges such as small sample sizes, specific populations, and/or methodologies that may not translate perfectly to your specific application.

Community: Lattice Training
Country: The United Kingdom

Lattice Training: Finger Strength
Lattice Training: Contact Strength
Lattice Training: Climbing Efficiency

Community: Power Company Climbing
Country: Austria & the United States

Madeleine Eppensteiner and PCC: the Climber-Coach Relationship

Community: Bend Endurance Academy
Country: The United States – Oregon

Bend Endurance Academy: Talent Development

Community: “The Short Beta” website and two national climbing teams
Country: Russia; Japan; The United States – California

Speed Climbing Research and Graphic