Research > Experimental Training
I plan to do very short write-ups on experimental training protocols which I read about in the climbing research literature. These won’t require any special equipment outside of what you would find in a typical climbing gym. Come back here for new ideas about how researchers are studying training. Be warned: these protocols are highly experimental – seek guidance from an experienced coach. The Beta Angel Project does not endorse the use of these protocols.
Type A: Protocols directly from Researchers
Type B: Creative Options from the Beta Angel Project
Spanish Research Team
Grip Strength Training – “The Classic” (Type A)
GBR, FRA, NED, RUS, AUS, SGP Research Teams
French Research Team
Contact Strength Training – “The Strong and the Fast” (Type A)
Norwegian and UK Research Team
Core Training – “The Dynamic and Locked Core” (Type A)
Austrian Research Team
Lead Climbing Performance Training – “The Austrian Protocols: Strength vs. Endurance” (Type A)
The Beta Angel Project 