Research > Experimental Training

I plan to do very short write-ups on experimental training protocols which I read about in the climbing research literature. These won’t require any special equipment outside of what you would find in a typical climbing gym. Come back here for new ideas about how researchers are studying training. Be warned: these protocols are highly experimental – seek guidance from an experienced coach. The Beta Angel Project does not endorse the use of these protocols.

Type A: Protocols directly from Researchers
Type B: Creative Options from the Beta Angel Project

Spanish Research Team

Grip Strength Training – “The Classic” (Type A)

GBR, FRA, NED, RUS, AUS, SGP Research Teams

Project Movement Science (MoveSci) – Strategic Learning, Efficiency, and Exploration vs. Performance (Type B)

French Research Team

Contact Strength Training – “The Strong and the Fast” (Type A)

Norwegian and UK Research Team

Core Training – “The Dynamic and Locked Core” (Type A)

Austrian Research Team

Lead Climbing Performance Training – “The Austrian Protocols: Strength vs. Endurance” (Type A)

Norwegian Research Team

Strength Training – “The Resistant Climber” (Type A)