Research > Experimental Training > Converting Research to Practice
Update: This series of articles was the first time I used the term “MoveSci.” It’s now a brand of the Beta Angel Project. You can access it in the dropdown above.
Below are “bite-sized” practical options for incorporating movement learning & movement efficiency into your training. Each one shouldn’t take you more than a minute or two to read but has both a summary of the research as well as potential practical options for implementation which will require some creativity on your part. Click on the below links to explore.
Movement Efficiency
Measure how smoothly and directly a climber moves—and learn how to deliberately improve it through repetition and strategic practice.
Rapid Learning
Teach climbers to find better solutions faster, so each attempt accelerates adaptation instead of just adding volume.
Promote Exploration
Build learning through purposeful trial, variation, and movement discovery rather than over-prescribed solutions.
Preview & Phases
Break climbing into phases and sharpen route preview so decisions become faster, cleaner, and more efficient on the wall.
“Constraint” Shaping
Use hold setup, pacing, and environmental changes to guide better movement solutions without over-coaching.
These training options are not directly evidence-based because the protocols themselves have never been tested experimentally. Rather, they are based on the underlying theories coming from the science. This information is The Beta Angel Project’s “interpretation” of how to implement climbing research practically, and as such should be treated as a synthesis of science and creativity.