UPDATE: All 2018 Research Summaries Published Here!

The research inventory is a non-exhaustive list of English-language climbing research about human performance in climbing (you won’t find articles in here on, say, the impact of chalk on cliffs). This inventory intentionally over-simplifies the articles in order to make them more accessible to general readers. This approach may cause readers to err in the way they choose to interpret the results due to the over-simplification. However, we at the Beta Angel Research Project have chosen to balance this risk with a desire to improve access to climbing-related research.

Much of this information is new.  Criticism of these studies may include (but is not limited to): small sample sizes, application of conclusions to populations of different climbing levels (e.g. recreational vs. elite), and the overall paper’s methodological rigor.

How to Help Us

  • This inventory is intended to be a living document and iterative in nature —meaning its purpose is to change and evolve. See a mistake or a better way to say something? Help us learn!
  • If you know of a research article that’s not on here, send it to us! Bonus points for putting it in the format we’ve provided below. We’ll even give you credit in the inventory!
  • Help us guard against humans making an erroneous conclusion — send us constructive feedback in the form of (a) PROPOSED changes to language or (b) a Beta-Angel Note (see examples in the text).
  • In most cases we were able to access the original document (even if we can’t provide that to you), but not in all cases. If it seems like we missed the point of the article — let us know! Either we didn’t have access, or we were waiting for you to be brilliant for us.