Research > Research Inventory > Bioenergetics: Nutrition
Dietary Intakes and the Risk of Low Energy Availability in Male and Female Advanced and Elite Rock Climbers
Authors: Javier Monedero, Christina Duff, Brendan Egan | Year: 2022
Summary: This study examined whether advanced and elite climbers meet the energy demands of training in a sport where low body mass is commonly perceived as advantageous. Most climbers fell below recommended energy availability thresholds and showed low carbohydrate intake and multiple micronutrient gaps, but only female climbers had total energy intakes clearly below their estimated requirements. This pattern could lead to routine screening and targeted nutrition education in high-level climbers, while the short food-tracking window suggests the findings indicate risk rather than precise long-term intake.
Reference: Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. 2022;37(3). doi:10.1519/JSC.0000000000004317
Not Open Source: https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000004317
Accuracy of Resting Metabolic Rate Prediction Equations in Sport Climbers
Authors: Anna Chmielewska, Krzysztof Kujawa, Bożena Regulska-Ilow | Year: 2023
Summary: This study tested whether commonly used equations accurately estimate resting metabolic rate (RMR) in sport climbers, because these values are widely used to plan nutrition and assess energy deficiency. Across 114 climbers, nearly all equations underestimated measured resting metabolic rate, with none showing strong agreement, although the De Lorenzo equation performed least poorly. This points toward developing climbing-specific prediction tools to better guide nutrition and risk screening, since relying on generic equations may systematically underfuel climbers with atypical body composition.
Beta-angel note: According to this article, typical RMR equations underestimate a key component of fueling by suggesting that climbers’ Resting Metabolic Rate is lower than it is. The authors tested actual RMR by measuring climbers’ oxygen consumption and carbon dioxide production using indirect calorimetry, then compared those measured values against the RMR predicted by 14 commonly used equations. Because RMR is used as the baseline for estimating total daily energy needs, underestimating RMR can lead to an underestimate of how many calories a climber needs to adequately fuel training and recovery. The authors speculate that the equations were developed using populations whose metabolic/body-composition characteristics may not adequately represent climbers.
Reference: Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2023;20(5):4216. doi:10.3390/ijerph20054216
Open Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10001726/
The Evaluation of Energy Availability and Dietary Nutrient Intake of Sport Climbers at Different Climbing Levels
Authors: Chmielewska A, Regulska-Ilow B | Year: 2023
Summary: This study examined how energy availability and dietary intake vary across climbing ability because climbers often restrict intake to maintain low body mass. The authors found widespread low energy availability in both women and men, with lower values generally appearing at higher performance levels, alongside frequent shortfalls in nutrients such as vitamin D (bone strength, muscle function) and iodine (thyroid control of metabolism), leading them to emphasize the need for nutrition education in climbers. These findings could lead to routine screening for chronic under-fueling in training environments, although interpretation is constrained by reliance on the 30 kcal/kg fat-free mass cutoff—derived from non-climbing physiology and poorly validated in males or climbing-specific contexts.
Beta-angel note: Just a quick note for readers unfamiliar with iodine: when energy availability is low during hard training, thyroid hormone production is down-regulated. Iodine is required to make thyroid hormones, so low iodine intake can worsen or prolong this suppression.
Reference: Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2023 Mar 15;20(6):5176. doi:10.3390/ijerph20065176
Open Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10049433/
Dietary Nitrate Ingestion Does Not Improve Neuromuscular Performance in Male Sport Climbers
Authors: Berlanga LA, Lopez-Samanes A, Martin-Lopez J, Martinez de la Cruz R, Garces-Rimon M, Roberts J, Bertotti G. | Year: 2023
Summary: This double-blind crossover study tested whether acute beetroot juice ingestion was worth examining in climbers because nitrate can increase nitric oxide, which in other sports has sometimes been linked to faster force production or improved muscle efficiency. Ten amateur male climbers completed climbing-relevant strength and power tests after beetroot juice or placebo, and despite large increases in salivary nitrate, no meaningful changes were seen in finger force, pull-ups, jumps, or perceived effort. These results suggest beetroot is unlikely to acutely enhance climbing-specific strength or power, while clarifying that its proposed mechanisms do not translate well to short, localized, high-force climbing tasks.
Beta-Angel note: This paper is useful for why beetroot was tested at all: the authors were probing whether nitric-oxide–related effects seen in other sports might extend beyond endurance into rapid or repeated force production. The answer here is a fairly clean “no” for acute dosing in climbing-style tasks. Note to check later beetroot studies published after this that test more traditional nitrate questions associated with local muscular endurance.
Reference: J Hum Kinet. 2023;87:47–57. doi:10.5114/jhk/161812
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10203837
Top of the Podium, at What Cost? Injuries in Female International Elite Climbers
Authors: Grønhaug G, Joubert LM, Saeterbakken AH, Drum SN, Nelson MC | Year: 2023
Summary: This study surveyed 114 international elite female climbers to describe injury prevalence and explore whether injuries differed by body mass index, menstrual status, or eating disorder status in a population rarely studied separately. Just over half reported at least one injury in the past year, most commonly involving the shoulders and fingers, while body mass index and amenorrhea were not associated with injury prevalence. The authors note that eating disorder status showed a non-significant tendency toward higher injury odds and suggest that health monitoring and screening may be considered alongside injury prevention, although this finding requires confirmation.
Beta-Angel note: For eating disorders specifically, the estimate points toward higher injury odds, but the confidence interval crosses 1 and the p-value does not meet conventional significance, so this should be treated as a signal worth watching rather than evidence of risk.
Reference: Front Sports Act Living. 2023 Jun 16;5:1121831. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1121831
Open Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10312002/
Protocol for a 2-year longitudinal study of eating disturbances, mental health problems and overuse injuries in rock climbers (CLIMB)
Authors: Edlund K, Nigicser I, Sansone M, Identeg F, Hedelin H, Forsberg N, Tranaeus U | Year: 2023
Summary: This paper lays out a Swedish follow-up study of competitive climbers (age 13+, advanced or higher) looking at disordered eating and “overuse” injuries from repeated training. Climbers will repeatedly fill out surveys on eating symptoms, injury impact, mood and stress, sleep, body image, perfectionism, and compulsive training, and some will also get a dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry scan for bone health. This could lead to practical screening and prevention targets in youth and team settings, but the results will rely heavily on self-reported answers and the sample may not represent all climbers.
Beta-angel note: found it interesting they want to study perfectionism in addition to compulsive training and overuse injuries as possible downstream indicators.
Reference: BMJ Open. 2023 Sep 13;13(9):e074631. doi:10.1136/bmjopen-2023-074631
Open Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10503345/
Physiological Characteristics, Dietary Intake, and Supplement Use in Sport Climbing
Authors: Okoren L, Magkos F. | Year: 2023
Summary: This review examined what is known about climbers’ physical demands, diet quality, and supplement use as climbing has moved into the Olympic setting. The authors report that many climbers eat too little overall, especially carbohydrates, and that evidence for supplements is limited, with only caffeine and New Zealand blackcurrant extract tested using climbing-specific outcomes. The authors suggest these findings could direct nutrition education and better-designed performance trials, but the small, uneven, and partly outdated literature limits confidence in current recommendations.
Reference: Current Nutrition Reports. 2023. doi: 10.1007/s13668-023-00511-x
Not Open Source: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13668-023-00511-x
Nutrition knowledge, weight loss practices, and supplement use in senior competition climbers
Authors: Gibson-Smith E, Storey R, Michael M, Ranchordas M. | Year: 2023
Summary: This survey study examined nutrition knowledge, weight-loss behaviors, and supplement use in 50 senior competition climbers to identify gaps relevant to health and performance. Nutrition knowledge was “average” but highly variable, with poor understanding of hydration and micronutrients; fewer than 20% had access to a dietitian, and national climbers scored slightly higher than international climbers. About 40% reported intentional weight loss for competition, typically ~3–8% body mass over ≥2 weeks, with no meaningful differences by sex or competition level. Practically, the findings point to targeted education and early screening as priorities, though the self-reported, cross-sectional design limits causal or performance conclusions.
Beta Angel note: Approximately 40% of the full sample intentionally cut weight (46% of men, 38% of women), with no clear difference between national and international climbers. Of those who attempted weight loss, ~75–76% reported concerning practices (e.g., skipping meals, dehydration strategies, laxatives, vomiting), meaning ~30% of all surveyed climbers engaged in risky weight-loss behaviors despite competing at senior levels.
Reference: Front Nutr. 2024 Jan 17;10:1277623. doi: 10.3389/fnut.2023.1277623
Open Source: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38299180/
Attitudes Towards Disordered Eating in the Rock Climbing Community
Author: Strand M. | Year: 2022
Summary: This study analyzed major climbing forums to see how climbers discuss food, weight, and disordered eating. Most posters agreed these issues exist in climbing, though a vocal minority felt the concerns were exaggerated or simply part of high-performance culture. Climbers described both harmful pressures to be light and ways climbing can support healthier body image. The discussions also highlighted disagreement about whether weight still matters as much today, reflecting shifting norms in the sport.
Reference: J Eat Disord. 2022;10:96. doi: 10.1186/s40337-022-00619-5
OPEN SOURCE: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9264506/
Dietary Intakes and the Risk of Low Energy Availability in Male and Female Advanced and Elite Rock Climbers
Authors: Monedero J, Duff C, Egan B. | Year: 2022
Summary: Researchers tracked 25 advanced and elite climbers’ diet, training load, and body composition to see how often they fell into low energy availability (too little fuel left after exercise). Nearly 9 in 10 had suboptimal energy availability, and over a quarter met clinical low energy thresholds, despite generally low eating-disorder scores. Carbohydrate intake was below sport guidelines, fat intake was high, and many climbers—especially women—showed low intakes of key micronutrients, suggesting that common “light and lean” habits may underfuel training and health.
Beta-angel note: The calorie cutoffs (>~45 kcal/kg FFM/day for “optimal,” 30–45 for “reduced,” and <30 for LEA) come from the IOC framework by Mountjoy et al. (2018), which relied on Loucks’ short-term experiments (Loucks et al 1994, Loucks, Thuma 2003) in untrained, sedentary women—not athletes. At the lowest threshold (Review by Loucks, Kiens, Wright, 2011), reproductive hormone signaling collapsed, thyroid output dropped (slowing metabolism), bone turnover shifted unfavorably, and insulin/IGF-1 fell (blunting recovery), while cortisol rose (favoring muscle loss). The authors rightly note that energy availability may differ from person to person.
Reference: J Strength Cond Res. 2022;XX(X):1–8. doi: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000004402
Not Open Source: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35836334/
Prevalence of amenorrhea in elite female competitive climbers
Authors: Joubert L, Warme A, Larson A, Grønhaug G, Michael M, Schöffl V, Burtscher E, Meyer N. | Year: 2022
Summary/Results: The authors emailed a 33-question survey (training, weight-management, menstrual history, eating behaviours) to all International Federation of Sport Climbing–registered women and analyzed 114 completed responses from true World Cup–level athletes, classifying menstrual status using detailed cycle-pattern questions rather than just “yes/no” items. About one in six climbers (15.8%) met strict criteria for current amenorrhea and another 12% had unclear but likely disturbed cycles, yet most of these athletes had “normal” body mass index (body mass index ~20 kg/m²; only 4 of 18 were below the IFSC’s BMI cut-off) while roughly half reported deliberate food restriction for weight, and a large minority reported current or past eating disorders—showing that low energy availability and menstrual disruption can be common even when athletes do not appear underweight. Despite typical survey limitations (English-only instrument, unknown true response rate, self-report bias), this is strong early evidence that federations and coaches cannot rely on BMI checks alone and should treat missed or irregular periods in elite female climbers as a health red flag that warrants nutrition and medical follow-up.
Beta-Angel note: there’s a suggestion that IFSC BMI checks will miss many (most?) cases, and that cycle regularity may be the best indicator.
Reference: Front Sports Act Living. 2022;4:895588. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.895588
OPEN SOURCE: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9400828/
Evaluation of Supplement Use in Sport Climbers at Different Climbing Levels.
Authors: Chmielewska A, Regulska-Ilow B. | Year: 2022
Summary/Results: The authors surveyed 110 regular sport climbers in Wroclaw, Poland to find out which supplements they use, why they take them, and where they get their information. This was a cross-sectional, self-report questionnaire in a single city with no performance testing, so it describes habits and beliefs but can’t show which supplements actually help or harm climbing performance. About 77% of climbers used supplements, most often protein powders, vitamin C, vitamin D, magnesium and amino acid blends; use was similar across Intermediate, Advanced, and Elite groups, although elites trained more and rated diet as especially important for recovery. Very few climbers reported using evidence-backed performance aids for climbing (e.g., beta-alanine, nitrates, sodium bicarbonate, caffeine), and most relied on the Internet and other climbers for advice, leading the authors to conclude that practical, climbing-specific education and guidelines on safe, effective supplement use should be part of standard training preparation.
Reference: Nutrients. 2022;15(1):100. doi: 10.3390/nu15010100
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9823293
Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Climbing Performance
Authors: Sas-Nowosielski, K., Wyciślik, J., & Kaczka, P. | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: This study tested whether 4 weeks of beta-alanine supplementation improved climbing-specific performance in mixed sex elite climbers using a campus board test and two traverses. Fifteen climbers (up to ~8b+ French) completed the study. The beta-alanine group improved their volume of campus board reaches (~21.7%) and showed large improvements on the longer “easy” traverse in both moves (~51%) and time to failure (~59%), exceeding placebo. There was no significant improvement on the shorter, high-intensity “hard” traverse (~30–40 s), indicating effects were specific to longer-duration efforts.
Training Implications: Beta-alanine may improve performance in sustained power-endurance efforts (~1 minute or longer) by increasing muscle carnosine and buffering H+, delaying fatigue. Benefits appear limited for short-duration maximal efforts.
Reference: Sas-Nowosielski, K., Wyciślik, J., & Kaczka, P. (2021). Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Climbing Performance. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 18(10), 5370. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8157844/
New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers
Authors: Fryer, S. M., Paterson, C., Perkins, I. C., Gloster, C., Willems, M. E. T., & Potter, J. A. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results: This study examined the effects of seven days of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on forearm muscle oxygenation during climbing-specific exercise in 12 intermediate male climbers (French grade ~6b). Supplementation improved muscle oxygenation dynamics, including faster reoxygenation and greater oxygen utilization during high-intensity contractions. However, there were no improvements in time to exhaustion, strength, or brachial artery blood flow, suggesting the effects occurred at the muscle level rather than through increased blood flow.
Beta Angel note: This suggests a disconnect between physiological change and performance outcome. Improved muscle oxygenation alone did not translate to better endurance, which implies that how climbers manage contraction and recovery may determine whether this type of supplement has any practical benefit.
Reference:
Fryer, S. M., Paterson, C., Perkins, I. C., Gloster, C., Willems, M. E. T., & Potter, J. A. (2020). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 30(4), 258–263. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijsnem.2019-0365
Open Source: https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/8428/1/8428-Fryer-%282020%29-New-Zealand-blackcurrant-extract-enhances-muscle.pdf
Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers
Authors: Joubert, L. M., Gonzalez, G. B., & Larson, A. J. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study examined disordered eating (irregular eating behaviors that may harm health or develop into eating disorders) in a large international sample of 498 adult sport lead climbers from 33 countries. Using the Eating Attitudes Test-26, the authors found an overall prevalence of 8.6% scoring above the clinical cutoff, with men at 6.3% and women much higher at 16.5%. Strikingly, nearly half of the elite and higher-elite female climbers in the sample reported DE (42.9%), while no such pattern appeared in male climbers. These results indicate that DE is linked to climbing ability for women but not for men, suggesting that pressures at the highest levels may increase risk. The authors conclude that sport lead climbers are not immune to disordered eating, that female climbers face greater vulnerability, and that awareness, prevention, and nutrition education are necessary to protect health and performance in this community (https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7739584/).
Beta Angel note: The gender divide here is sharp. The fact that Disordered Eating prevalence rises steeply for women at the elite level suggests a culture-performance link that climbing coaches and federations cannot ignore.
Reference:
Joubert, L. M., Gonzalez, G. B., & Larson, A. J. (2020). Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers. Frontiers in Psychology, 11, 4034. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7739584/
Short-Term d-Aspartic Acid Supplementation Does Not Affect Serum Biomarkers Associated With the Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal Axis in Male Climbers
Authors: Blair T. Crewther, Konrad Witek, Paweł Draga, Zbigniew Obmiński | Year: 2018
Summary/Results:
This study tested whether the amino acid d-aspartic acid (DAA), marketed to raise testosterone, influenced hormones in 16 male climbers. Using a placebo-controlled crossover design, climbers took DAA or placebo for two weeks while training normally. Results showed no effect on testosterone, free testosterone, or luteinizing hormone (which signals the testes to produce testosterone). Small changes were noted in sex hormone binding globulin (a protein that transports testosterone) and cortisol (a stress hormone), but these shifts occurred regardless of treatment. Overall, DAA had no impact on testosterone, luteinizing hormone, SHBG, cortisol, or related health and performance measures.
Reference:
Crewther, B. T., Witek, K., Draga, P., & Obmiński, Z. (2018). Short-term d-aspartic acid supplementation does not affect serum biomarkers associated with the hypothalamic-pituitary-gonadal axis in male climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 29(3), 1–17. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/325724719_Short-Term_d-Aspartic_Acid_Supplementation_Does_Not_Affect_Serum_Biomarkers_Associated_With_the_Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal_Axis_in_Male_Climbers
New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers
Authors: Fryer S, Giles D, Bird E, Stone K, Paterson C, Baláš J, Willems MET, Potter JA, & Perkins IC. | Year: 2021
Summary/Results:
This study tested whether a 7-day supplementation of anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) extract (600 mg/day) could improve forearm muscle oxygenation and performance in 12 advanced and elite climbers. Using a randomized, double-blind, cross-over design, climbers performed intermittent hangs at 60% of maximal finger strength while forearm oxygen use was measured with near-infrared spectroscopy (a tool that tracks how oxygen is delivered and used in muscle). NZBC supplementation improved oxidative capacity, shown by a faster recovery of muscle oxygen levels (5.3 s quicker O₂ half-time recovery), and led to greater oxygen extraction (lower minimum muscle oxygen saturation) during repeated bouts. However, NZBC had no effect on actual performance outcomes such as time to exhaustion or total force produced.
Beta Angel Note: This is intriguing because it reinforces the idea that oxygen delivery and use can be improved without automatically leading to better climbing output—at least in isolated fingerboard tests. Coaches might wonder if the benefits only emerge in whole-body climbing, where vascular and oxygen delivery challenges are more complex.
Reference:
Fryer, S., Giles, D., Bird, E., Stone, K., Paterson, C., Baláš, J., Willems, M. E. T., Potter, J. A., & Perkins, I. C. (2021). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 21(9), 1290–1298.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33201779/
New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers
Authors: Fryer SM, Paterson C, Perkins IC, Gloster C, Willems MET, Potter JA. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study tested whether a 7-day intake of anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) extract (600 mg/day) would improve forearm oxygenation and endurance in climbers. Twelve intermediate male climbers performed intermittent fingerboard contractions at 40% of maximum until failure under both placebo and NZBC conditions in a double-blind crossover design. Time to exhaustion and total force-time integral were unchanged. However, climbers reached lower minimal tissue saturation (min TSI ~43% with NZBC vs. ~50% with placebo, with individual lows in the mid-30s and highs above 55%), showing large inter-individual variability. Recovery of oxygen was also faster with NZBC, with some climbers nearly halving recovery times. No differences appeared in brachial artery blood flow, diameter, or velocity. These results suggest NZBC supplementation improves local oxygen use and recovery in the forearm muscles, though not overall endurance in this group.
Beta Angel Note: Because the supplement improved muscle re-oxygenation after exhaustion, it could be most useful in situations where climbers get partial rests on routes, such as shaking out on a jug or kneebar, rather than in continuous dead-hang style efforts.
Reference:
Fryer, S. M., Paterson, C., Perkins, I. C., Gloster, C., Willems, M. E. T., & Potter, J. A. (2020). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 30(4), 258–263. Retrieved from https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/8428/1/8428-Fryer-%282020%29-New-Zealand-blackcurrant-extract-enhances-muscle.pdf
Dietary Intake, Body Composition and Iron Status in Experienced and Elite Climbers
Authors: Gibson-Smith E, Storey R, Ranchordas M. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results: This study assessed nutrition, body composition, and iron status in 40 adult climbers (20 male, 20 female) ranging from intermediate to higher-elite levels. Most climbers did not consume enough energy to match their training loads, with 77.5% failing to meet predicted energy requirements and several even falling short of resting metabolic needs. Average carbohydrate intake was low for athletes, and protein intake in vegan/vegetarian climbers often fell below recommended levels. Nearly one-third of participants showed poor iron status, with a higher risk among women (45% sub-optimal, 30% iron deficient) and vegetarian/vegan females reporting especially low ferritin. Body size and composition did not differ by ability level, suggesting nutrition and training may matter more for performance than physique.
Beta Angel note: The strikingly high rates of energy restriction and iron deficiency—especially among female climbers—show that performance is not just about training volume or skill but also about careful fueling. Climbing culture often emphasizes leanness, but this study highlights the real health trade-offs of under-eating.
Reference: Front. Nutr., 04 August 2020 — Sec. Sport and Exercise Nutrition — Volume 7 (2020) | https://doi.org/10.3389/fnut.2020.00122
Link: https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/nutrition/articles/10.3389/fnut.2020.00122/full
Physiological demands and nutritional considerations for Olympic-style competitive rock climbing
Authors: Michael, Witard, Joubert | Year: 2019
Summary: The authors analyze climbing literature in order to identify potential recommendations for elite climbing competition. They recommend “nutrition periodization” in order to match their training and competition schedule to their nutritional needs. The authors start with an estimation of ~10-11 kcal/min of energy expenditure during climbing, and make recommendations for different types of competition (speed vs. lead/bouldering) as well as macronutrients (e.g. carbohydrates for general training should be 3-7 g/kg of body weight per day but recommend augmenting with ~20-30 g/hr during a climbing session). Please see their extensive, practical tables for more. Beta-angel note: If you have a nutritionist or are considering getting one, I’d recommend handing this open-source overview of climbing-specific analysis to them. Additionally, this may be the first climbing-specific study may need a “moderate energy deficit in order to reduce body weight for a competition”, following a “train heavier” cycle, that I’m aware of. However, it’s important to note context: that the authors have anecdotally read about instances of “extreme energy restriction” and thus appear to have a desire to moderate the impact of what they assume to be a cultural practice.
Reference: Cogent Medicine, Vol 6 (1), 2019
https://www.cogentoa.com/article/10.1080/2331205X.2019.1667199
Effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on sport climbing performance.
Authors: Potter JA, Hodgson CI, Broadhurst M, Howell L, Gilbert J, Willems MET, Perkins IC. | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: New Zealand Blackcurrant (NZBC) extract has enhanced blood flow and performance in other exercises, so researchers gave 18 male recreational climbers either NZBC extract or a placebo for 7 days. After the 7 days, researchers tested climbers’ hang time, pull-ups, and 3 bouts of treadwall climbing to exhaustion, and recorded climbers’ heart rate, blood lactate, forearm girth, and hand grip strength. The climbers who took NZBC saw a significant (23%) improvement in duration of treadwall climbing, compared to the placebo which had an 11% decline in duration. The researchers could not explain this improvement based upon the other measurements; moreover, the third climb saw lower indices for physiological work despite longer climbing durations.
Reference: Eur J Appl Physiol. 2019 Sep 12. doi: 10.1007/s00421-019-04226-2 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31515632
Tags: Bioenergetics > Nutrition
Short-Term d-Aspartic Acid Supplementation Does Not Affect Serum Biomarkers Associated With the Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal Axis in Male Climbers
Authors: Crewther B, Witek K, Zmijewski P, Obmiński Z.
Summary/results: D-aspartic acid (DAA) is a supplement that was previously shown to increase testosterone in untrained athletes and men with low-testosterone levels. The authors demonstrated that male climbers, similar to other athlete populations, do not benefit from DAA as it does not increase testosterone levels. Beta-Angel note: Save your money, skip the DAA.
Reference: Int J Sport Nutr Exerc Metab. 2018 Sep 21:1-6.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29893592
Bioenergetics > Nutrition
Nutritional considerations for bouldering
AUTHORS: E. Smith, R. Storey, M. Ranchordas | Year: 2017
SUMMARY/RESULTS: This paper discusses the nutritional requirements of boulderers as well as the potential implications of both (a) macro-nutrients (primarily protein and carbohydrates), as well as (b) specific nutritional supplements such as caffeine, Beta-Alanine, Nitrate, and Creatine. The authors recommend a balance of nutritional needs which optimize both performance and recovery and focus on the training needs of boulderers such as: muscle development of bouldering-specific strengths, energy system optimization with respect to the anaerobic capacity, and an evidence-based approach to considerations of weight loss. Beta-Angel note: Open Access + readable = worth the read.
REFERENCE: Sheffield Hallam University Research Archive
http://shura.shu.ac.uk/15532/1/Nutritional%20Considerations%20for%20Bouldering%20-%20V4%20Comments%20addressed%2020_3_17.pdf
Nutrition and hydration strategies to enhance sport and multi-pitch Climbing Performance
AUTHORS: L.J. Joubert, A.J. Larson, S.E. Weber | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: An overview of nutrition and hydration for climbers. The authors conclude that climbing nutrition should (a) be based on an understand of the anthropological need of climbers, (b) require experimentation while still adhering to certain principles, and (c) should be individualized based on personal needs and preferences. They suggest that due to the inherent flexibility required for nutritional needs, a sports nutrition professional should be consulted.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
The effectiveness of chocolate milk as a post-climbing recovery aid
AUTHORS: J. Potter, B. Fuller | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study compared water with chocolate milk as a recovery aid following high intensity endurance climbing in ten males on a treadwall until exhaustion. Researchers suggest that chocolate milk as a recovery drink results in further sustained climbing and a decrease in muscle soreness.
REFERENCE: J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 2015 Dec;55(12):1438-44.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25286886
How diet impacts performance in rock climbers: A pilot study
AUTHOR: Ueland, K | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The researcher compared 10 elite climbers with 5 elite climbers by having them undertake a nutritional analysis and a series of climbing performance tests. The tests included climbing to exhaustion as well as the identification of anthropometric characteristics and finger strength force. The author found that: (a) elite climbers could climb on average 3 times longer than non-elite climbers; (b) that they imbibed less protein over the previous 24 hours, but; (c) imbibed more water overall.
REFERENCE: Bastyr University, 2014, 69; 1557441
http://pqdtopen.proquest.com/doc/1547176879.html?FMT=ABS
Macronutrient intake and eating habits in elite rock climbers
AUTHORS: J. Zapf, B. Fichtl, S. Wielgoss, W. Schmidt | Year: 2001
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study authors attempted to characterize eating habits and nutrient intake using 20 elite rock climbers recording food intake over 7 days. Energy intake varied from 1595-4084 kcal/d with a mean of 2652 +/- 486 kcal/d. 40% of analyzed climbers consumed less than 2500 kcal despite 2 hrs/day of training. The proportion of protein to fat to carboyhydrates to alcohol was 15:27:55:3% respectively. Athletes with higher performance had a lower BMI and lower energy and fat intake.
REFERENCE: Medicine & science in Sports & Medicine, Volume 33(5) Supplement 1, May 2001, p S72
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/232144322_Macronutrient_Intake_and_Eating_Habits_in_Elite_Rock_Climbers