Research > Research Inventory > Bioenergetics: Nutrition

Nutritional considerations for bouldering

AUTHORS: E. Smith, R. Storey, M. Ranchordas | Year: 2017
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers go over the requirements of boulderers as well as the potential implications of both (a) macro-nutrients, primarily protein and carbohydrates, as well as (b) specific nutritional supplemental such as caffeine, Beta-Alanine, Nitrate, and Creatine. The authors recommend a balance between the improvement of performance using nutrition and needs of boulderers including: muscle development, energy system efficiency, and an evidence-based approach to weight loss needs. Beta-Angel note: Open Access + readable = worth the read.
REFERENCE: Sheffield Hallam University Research Archive
http://shura.shu.ac.uk/15532/1/Nutritional%20Considerations%20for%20Bouldering%20-%20V4%20Comments%20addressed%2020_3_17.pdf 

Nutrition and hydration strategies to enhance sport and multi-pitch Climbing Performance

AUTHORS: L.J. Joubert, A.J. Larson, S.E. Weber | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: An overview of nutrition and hydration for climbers. The authors conclude that climber nutrition should (a) be based on an understand of the anthropological need of climbers, (b) require experimentation while still adhering to certain principles, and (c) should be individualized based on personal needs and preferences, suggesting that due to the inherent flexibility required for nutritional needs, a sports nutrition professional should be consulted.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf

The effectiveness of chocolate milk as a post-climbing recovery aid

AUTHORS: J. Potter, B. Fuller | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study compared water with chocolate ilk as a recovery aid following high intensity endurance climbing in ten male on a treadwall until exhaustion. Researchers suggest that chocolate milk as a recovery drink results in further sustained climbing and a decrease in muscle soreness.
REFERENCE: J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 2015 Dec;55(12):1438-44.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25286886

How diet impacts performance in rock climbers: A pilot study

AUTHOR: Ueland, K | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The researcher compared 10 elite climbers with 5 elite climbers by having them undertake both a nutritional analysis and a series of climbing performance tests which included climbing to exhaustion as well as anthropometric characteristics and finger strength. The author found that: (a) elite climbers could climb on average 3 times longer than non-elite climbers; (b) that they imbibed less protein over the previous 24 hours, but; (c) imbibed more water overall.
REFERENCE: Bastyr University, 2014, 69; 1557441
http://pqdtopen.proquest.com/doc/1547176879.html?FMT=ABS

Macronutrient intake and eating habits in elite rock climbers

AUTHORS: J. Zapf, B. Fichtl, S. Wielgoss, W. Schmidt | Year: 2001
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study authors attempted to characterize eating habits and nutrient intake using 20 elite rock climbers recording food intake over 7 days. Energy intake varied from 1595-4084 kcal/d with a mean of 2652 +/- 486 kcal/d. 40% of analyzed climbers consumed less than 2500 kcal despite 2 hrs/day of training. The proportion of protein to fat to Carboyhydrates to alcohol was 15:27:55:3% respectively. Athletes with higher performance had a lower BMI and lower energy and fat intake.
REFERENCE: Medicine & science in Sports & Medicine, Volume 33(5) Supplement 1, May 2001, p S72
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/232144322_Macronutrient_Intake_and_Eating_Habits_in_Elite_Rock_Climbers