Nutritional considerations for bouldering
AUTHORS: E. Smith, R. Storey, M. Ranchordas | Year: 2017
SUMMARY/RESULTS: This paper discusses the nutritional requirements of boulderers as well as the potential implications of both (a) macro-nutrients (primarily protein and carbohydrates), as well as (b) specific nutritional supplements such as caffeine, Beta-Alanine, Nitrate, and Creatine. The authors recommend a balance of nutritional needs which optimize both performance and recovery and focus on the training needs of boulderers such as: muscle development of bouldering-specific strengths, energy system optimization with respect to the anaerobic capacity, and an evidence-based approach to considerations of weight loss. Beta-Angel note: Open Access + readable = worth the read.
REFERENCE: Sheffield Hallam University Research Archive
Nutrition and hydration strategies to enhance sport and multi-pitch Climbing Performance
AUTHORS: L.J. Joubert, A.J. Larson, S.E. Weber | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: An overview of nutrition and hydration for climbers. The authors conclude that climbing nutrition should (a) be based on an understand of the anthropological need of climbers, (b) require experimentation while still adhering to certain principles, and (c) should be individualized based on personal needs and preferences. They suggest that due to the inherent flexibility required for nutritional needs, a sports nutrition professional should be consulted.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
The effectiveness of chocolate milk as a post-climbing recovery aid
AUTHORS: J. Potter, B. Fuller | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study compared water with chocolate milk as a recovery aid following high intensity endurance climbing in ten males on a treadwall until exhaustion. Researchers suggest that chocolate milk as a recovery drink results in further sustained climbing and a decrease in muscle soreness.
REFERENCE: J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 2015 Dec;55(12):1438-44.
How diet impacts performance in rock climbers: A pilot study
AUTHOR: Ueland, K | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The researcher compared 10 elite climbers with 5 elite climbers by having them undertake a nutritional analysis and a series of climbing performance tests. The tests included climbing to exhaustion as well as the identification of anthropometric characteristics and finger strength force. The author found that: (a) elite climbers could climb on average 3 times longer than non-elite climbers; (b) that they imbibed less protein over the previous 24 hours, but; (c) imbibed more water overall.
REFERENCE: Bastyr University, 2014, 69; 1557441
Macronutrient intake and eating habits in elite rock climbers
AUTHORS: J. Zapf, B. Fichtl, S. Wielgoss, W. Schmidt | Year: 2001
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study authors attempted to characterize eating habits and nutrient intake using 20 elite rock climbers recording food intake over 7 days. Energy intake varied from 1595-4084 kcal/d with a mean of 2652 +/- 486 kcal/d. 40% of analyzed climbers consumed less than 2500 kcal despite 2 hrs/day of training. The proportion of protein to fat to carboyhydrates to alcohol was 15:27:55:3% respectively. Athletes with higher performance had a lower BMI and lower energy and fat intake.
REFERENCE: Medicine & science in Sports & Medicine, Volume 33(5) Supplement 1, May 2001, p S72