Research > Research Inventory > Bioenergetics: Nutrition
Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Climbing Performance
Authors: Sas-Nowosielski, K., Wyciślik, J., & Kaczka, P. | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: This study tested whether 4 weeks of beta-alanine supplementation improved climbing-specific performance in mixed sex elite climbers using a campus board test and two traverses. Fifteen climbers (up to ~8b+ French) completed the study. The beta-alanine group improved campus board reaches (~21.7%) and showed large improvements on the longer “easy” traverse in both moves (~51%) and time to failure (~59%), exceeding placebo. There was no significant improvement on the shorter, high-intensity “hard” traverse (~30–40 s), indicating effects were specific to longer-duration efforts.
Training Implications: Beta-alanine may improve performance in sustained power-endurance efforts (~1 minute or longer) by increasing muscle carnosine and buffering H+, delaying fatigue. Benefits appear limited for short-duration maximal efforts.
Reference: Sas-Nowosielski, K., Wyciślik, J., & Kaczka, P. (2021). Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Climbing Performance. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 18(10), 5370. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8157844/
New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers
Authors: Fryer, S. M., Paterson, C., Perkins, I. C., Gloster, C., Willems, M. E. T., & Potter, J. A. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results: This study examined the effects of seven days of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on forearm muscle oxygenation during climbing-specific exercise in 12 intermediate male climbers (French grade ~6b). Supplementation improved muscle oxygenation dynamics, including faster reoxygenation and greater oxygen utilization during high-intensity contractions. However, there were no improvements in time to exhaustion, strength, or brachial artery blood flow, suggesting the effects occurred at the muscle level rather than through increased blood flow.
Beta Angel note: This suggests a disconnect between physiological change and performance outcome. Improved muscle oxygenation alone did not translate to better endurance, which implies that how climbers manage contraction and recovery may determine whether this type of supplement has any practical benefit.
Reference:
Fryer, S. M., Paterson, C., Perkins, I. C., Gloster, C., Willems, M. E. T., & Potter, J. A. (2020). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 30(4), 258–263. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijsnem.2019-0365
Open Source: https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/8428/1/8428-Fryer-%282020%29-New-Zealand-blackcurrant-extract-enhances-muscle.pdf
Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers
Authors: Joubert, L. M., Gonzalez, G. B., & Larson, A. J. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study examined disordered eating (irregular eating behaviors that may harm health or develop into eating disorders) in a large international sample of 498 adult sport lead climbers from 33 countries. Using the Eating Attitudes Test-26, the authors found an overall prevalence of 8.6% scoring above the clinical cutoff, with men at 6.3% and women much higher at 16.5%. Strikingly, nearly half of the elite and higher-elite female climbers in the sample reported DE (42.9%), while no such pattern appeared in male climbers. These results indicate that DE is linked to climbing ability for women but not for men, suggesting that pressures at the highest levels may increase risk. The authors conclude that sport lead climbers are not immune to disordered eating, that female climbers face greater vulnerability, and that awareness, prevention, and nutrition education are necessary to protect health and performance in this community (https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7739584/).
Beta Angel note: The gender divide here is sharp. The fact that Disordered Eating prevalence rises steeply for women at the elite level suggests a culture-performance link that climbing coaches and federations cannot ignore.
Reference:
Joubert, L. M., Gonzalez, G. B., & Larson, A. J. (2020). Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers. Frontiers in Psychology, 11, 4034. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7739584/
Short-Term d-Aspartic Acid Supplementation Does Not Affect Serum Biomarkers Associated With the Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal Axis in Male Climbers
Authors: Blair T. Crewther, Konrad Witek, Paweł Draga, Zbigniew Obmiński | Year: 2018
Summary/Results:
This study tested whether the amino acid d-aspartic acid (DAA), marketed to raise testosterone, influenced hormones in 16 male climbers. Using a placebo-controlled crossover design, climbers took DAA or placebo for two weeks while training normally. Results showed no effect on testosterone, free testosterone, or luteinizing hormone (which signals the testes to produce testosterone). Small changes were noted in sex hormone binding globulin (a protein that transports testosterone) and cortisol (a stress hormone), but these shifts occurred regardless of treatment. Overall, DAA had no impact on testosterone, luteinizing hormone, SHBG, cortisol, or related health and performance measures.
Reference:
Crewther, B. T., Witek, K., Draga, P., & Obmiński, Z. (2018). Short-term d-aspartic acid supplementation does not affect serum biomarkers associated with the hypothalamic-pituitary-gonadal axis in male climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 29(3), 1–17. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/325724719_Short-Term_d-Aspartic_Acid_Supplementation_Does_Not_Affect_Serum_Biomarkers_Associated_With_the_Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal_Axis_in_Male_Climbers
New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers
Authors: Fryer S, Giles D, Bird E, Stone K, Paterson C, Baláš J, Willems MET, Potter JA, & Perkins IC. | Year: 2021
Summary/Results:
This study tested whether a 7-day supplementation of anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) extract (600 mg/day) could improve forearm muscle oxygenation and performance in 12 advanced and elite climbers. Using a randomized, double-blind, cross-over design, climbers performed intermittent hangs at 60% of maximal finger strength while forearm oxygen use was measured with near-infrared spectroscopy (a tool that tracks how oxygen is delivered and used in muscle). NZBC supplementation improved oxidative capacity, shown by a faster recovery of muscle oxygen levels (5.3 s quicker O₂ half-time recovery), and led to greater oxygen extraction (lower minimum muscle oxygen saturation) during repeated bouts. However, NZBC had no effect on actual performance outcomes such as time to exhaustion or total force produced.
Beta Angel Note: This is intriguing because it reinforces the idea that oxygen delivery and use can be improved without automatically leading to better climbing output—at least in isolated fingerboard tests. Coaches might wonder if the benefits only emerge in whole-body climbing, where vascular and oxygen delivery challenges are more complex.
Reference:
Fryer, S., Giles, D., Bird, E., Stone, K., Paterson, C., Baláš, J., Willems, M. E. T., Potter, J. A., & Perkins, I. C. (2021). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 21(9), 1290–1298.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33201779/
New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers
Authors: Fryer SM, Paterson C, Perkins IC, Gloster C, Willems MET, Potter JA. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study tested whether a 7-day intake of anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) extract (600 mg/day) would improve forearm oxygenation and endurance in climbers. Twelve intermediate male climbers performed intermittent fingerboard contractions at 40% of maximum until failure under both placebo and NZBC conditions in a double-blind crossover design. Time to exhaustion and total force-time integral were unchanged. However, climbers reached lower minimal tissue saturation (min TSI ~43% with NZBC vs. ~50% with placebo, with individual lows in the mid-30s and highs above 55%), showing large inter-individual variability. Recovery of oxygen was also faster with NZBC, with some climbers nearly halving recovery times. No differences appeared in brachial artery blood flow, diameter, or velocity. These results suggest NZBC supplementation improves local oxygen use and recovery in the forearm muscles, though not overall endurance in this group.
Beta Angel Note: Because the supplement improved muscle re-oxygenation after exhaustion, it could be most useful in situations where climbers get partial rests on routes, such as shaking out on a jug or kneebar, rather than in continuous dead-hang style efforts.
Reference:
Fryer, S. M., Paterson, C., Perkins, I. C., Gloster, C., Willems, M. E. T., & Potter, J. A. (2020). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 30(4), 258–263. Retrieved from https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/8428/1/8428-Fryer-%282020%29-New-Zealand-blackcurrant-extract-enhances-muscle.pdf
Dietary Intake, Body Composition and Iron Status in Experienced and Elite Climbers
Authors: Gibson-Smith E, Storey R, Ranchordas M. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results: This study assessed nutrition, body composition, and iron status in 40 adult climbers (20 male, 20 female) ranging from intermediate to higher-elite levels. Most climbers did not consume enough energy to match their training loads, with 77.5% failing to meet predicted energy requirements and several even falling short of resting metabolic needs. Average carbohydrate intake was low for athletes, and protein intake in vegan/vegetarian climbers often fell below recommended levels. Nearly one-third of participants showed poor iron status, with a higher risk among women (45% sub-optimal, 30% iron deficient) and vegetarian/vegan females reporting especially low ferritin. Body size and composition did not differ by ability level, suggesting nutrition and training may matter more for performance than physique.
Beta Angel note: The strikingly high rates of energy restriction and iron deficiency—especially among female climbers—show that performance is not just about training volume or skill but also about careful fueling. Climbing culture often emphasizes leanness, but this study highlights the real health trade-offs of under-eating.
Reference: Front. Nutr., 04 August 2020 — Sec. Sport and Exercise Nutrition — Volume 7 (2020) | https://doi.org/10.3389/fnut.2020.00122
Link: https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/nutrition/articles/10.3389/fnut.2020.00122/full
Physiological demands and nutritional considerations for Olympic-style competitive rock climbing
Authors: Michael, Witard, Joubert | Year: 2019
Summary: The authors analyze climbing literature in order to identify potential recommendations for elite climbing competition. They recommend “nutrition periodization” in order to match their training and competition schedule to their nutritional needs. The authors start with an estimation of ~10-11 kcal/min of energy expenditure during climbing, and make recommendations for different types of competition (speed vs. lead/bouldering) as well as macronutrients (e.g. carbohydrates for general training should be 3-7 g/kg of body weight per day but recommend augmenting with ~20-30 g/hr during a climbing session). Please see their extensive, practical tables for more. Beta-angel note: If you have a nutritionist or are considering getting one, I’d recommend handing this open-source overview of climbing-specific analysis to them. Additionally, this may be the first climbing-specific study may need a “moderate energy deficit in order to reduce body weight for a competition”, following a “train heavier” cycle, that I’m aware of. However, it’s important to note context: that the authors have anecdotally read about instances of “extreme energy restriction” and thus appear to have a desire to moderate the impact of what they assume to be a cultural practice.
Reference: Cogent Medicine, Vol 6 (1), 2019
https://www.cogentoa.com/article/10.1080/2331205X.2019.1667199
Effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on sport climbing performance.
Authors: Potter JA, Hodgson CI, Broadhurst M, Howell L, Gilbert J, Willems MET, Perkins IC. | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: New Zealand Blackcurrant (NZBC) extract has enhanced blood flow and performance in other exercises, so researchers gave 18 male recreational climbers either NZBC extract or a placebo for 7 days. After the 7 days, researchers tested climbers’ hang time, pull-ups, and 3 bouts of treadwall climbing to exhaustion, and recorded climbers’ heart rate, blood lactate, forearm girth, and hand grip strength. The climbers who took NZBC saw a significant (23%) improvement in duration of treadwall climbing, compared to the placebo which had an 11% decline in duration. The researchers could not explain this improvement based upon the other measurements; moreover, the third climb saw lower indices for physiological work despite longer climbing durations.
Reference: Eur J Appl Physiol. 2019 Sep 12. doi: 10.1007/s00421-019-04226-2 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31515632
Tags: Bioenergetics > Nutrition
Short-Term d-Aspartic Acid Supplementation Does Not Affect Serum Biomarkers Associated With the Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal Axis in Male Climbers
Authors: Crewther B, Witek K, Zmijewski P, Obmiński Z.
Summary/results: D-aspartic acid (DAA) is a supplement that was previously shown to increase testosterone in untrained athletes and men with low-testosterone levels. The authors demonstrated that male climbers, similar to other athlete populations, do not benefit from DAA as it does not increase testosterone levels. Beta-Angel note: Save your money, skip the DAA.
Reference: Int J Sport Nutr Exerc Metab. 2018 Sep 21:1-6.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29893592
Bioenergetics > Nutrition
Nutritional considerations for bouldering
AUTHORS: E. Smith, R. Storey, M. Ranchordas | Year: 2017
SUMMARY/RESULTS: This paper discusses the nutritional requirements of boulderers as well as the potential implications of both (a) macro-nutrients (primarily protein and carbohydrates), as well as (b) specific nutritional supplements such as caffeine, Beta-Alanine, Nitrate, and Creatine. The authors recommend a balance of nutritional needs which optimize both performance and recovery and focus on the training needs of boulderers such as: muscle development of bouldering-specific strengths, energy system optimization with respect to the anaerobic capacity, and an evidence-based approach to considerations of weight loss. Beta-Angel note: Open Access + readable = worth the read.
REFERENCE: Sheffield Hallam University Research Archive
http://shura.shu.ac.uk/15532/1/Nutritional%20Considerations%20for%20Bouldering%20-%20V4%20Comments%20addressed%2020_3_17.pdf
Nutrition and hydration strategies to enhance sport and multi-pitch Climbing Performance
AUTHORS: L.J. Joubert, A.J. Larson, S.E. Weber | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: An overview of nutrition and hydration for climbers. The authors conclude that climbing nutrition should (a) be based on an understand of the anthropological need of climbers, (b) require experimentation while still adhering to certain principles, and (c) should be individualized based on personal needs and preferences. They suggest that due to the inherent flexibility required for nutritional needs, a sports nutrition professional should be consulted.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
The effectiveness of chocolate milk as a post-climbing recovery aid
AUTHORS: J. Potter, B. Fuller | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study compared water with chocolate milk as a recovery aid following high intensity endurance climbing in ten males on a treadwall until exhaustion. Researchers suggest that chocolate milk as a recovery drink results in further sustained climbing and a decrease in muscle soreness.
REFERENCE: J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 2015 Dec;55(12):1438-44.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25286886
How diet impacts performance in rock climbers: A pilot study
AUTHOR: Ueland, K | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The researcher compared 10 elite climbers with 5 elite climbers by having them undertake a nutritional analysis and a series of climbing performance tests. The tests included climbing to exhaustion as well as the identification of anthropometric characteristics and finger strength force. The author found that: (a) elite climbers could climb on average 3 times longer than non-elite climbers; (b) that they imbibed less protein over the previous 24 hours, but; (c) imbibed more water overall.
REFERENCE: Bastyr University, 2014, 69; 1557441
http://pqdtopen.proquest.com/doc/1547176879.html?FMT=ABS
Macronutrient intake and eating habits in elite rock climbers
AUTHORS: J. Zapf, B. Fichtl, S. Wielgoss, W. Schmidt | Year: 2001
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study authors attempted to characterize eating habits and nutrient intake using 20 elite rock climbers recording food intake over 7 days. Energy intake varied from 1595-4084 kcal/d with a mean of 2652 +/- 486 kcal/d. 40% of analyzed climbers consumed less than 2500 kcal despite 2 hrs/day of training. The proportion of protein to fat to carboyhydrates to alcohol was 15:27:55:3% respectively. Athletes with higher performance had a lower BMI and lower energy and fat intake.
REFERENCE: Medicine & science in Sports & Medicine, Volume 33(5) Supplement 1, May 2001, p S72
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/232144322_Macronutrient_Intake_and_Eating_Habits_in_Elite_Rock_Climbers