Research > Research Inventory > Biomechanics: Repeaters (intermittent contractions)
Effects of Different Hangboard Training Intensities on Finger Grip Strength, Stamina, and Endurance
Authors: Devise M, Lechaptois C, Berton E, Vigouroux L. | Year: 2022
Summary: This study compared 4 weeks of hangboard training at three force targets (100%, 80%, 60% of maximal finger force) to see how different balances of mechanical load and metabolic stress shape finger capacity in advanced and elite climbers. Maximal strength rose only in the 100% and 80% groups, while stamina and endurance rose only in the 80% and 60% groups, showing that higher intensities lean toward neural/force adaptations and lower intensities toward fatigue-tolerance. Climbers with lower starting values improved the most, but because the tests were force-controlled hangs on a single edge—not climbing performance—the findings mainly clarify how each intensity selectively builds different physiological qualities.
Beta-Angel note: The authors’ framework offers coaches a usable map: mechanical tension (near-max work) drives strength; metabolic stress (sustained submax repeats) drives stamina/endurance; and 80% sits at the intersection, making it the versatile when a climber needs more than one quality at once.
Reference: Front Sports Act Living. 2022 Apr 12;4:862782. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.862782
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9039162
The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance
Authors: Hermans E, Saeterbakken AH, Vereide V, Nord ISO, Stien N, Andersen V. | Year: 2022
Summary: This study tested whether adding a 10-week hangboard block to regular climbing improved finger performance in 35 intermediate–advanced climbers. Using a traditional repeater-style (7-second on / 3-second off) intermittent hang protocol (beastmaker app), the hangboard group gained more maximal force on a 23 mm edge, while gains in explosive strength and dead-hang time were small and not clearly better than controls. Since only finger tests were used—not route or boulder performance—these findings mainly support hangboarding as a tool for max finger strength rather than endurance or overall climbing ability.
Beta-Angel note: The hangboard group trained fewer actual climbing sessions (it seemed like roughly matched volume, but can’t be sure) yet built more finger strength, suggesting (surprise!) structured finger blocks can be more effective for force building than unstructured climbing volume. The protocol also improved utilization rate—more of an athlete’s total pulling strength became usable on a small(er) edge—which is arguably the most performance-relevant outcome here.
Reference: Front Sports Act Living. 2022;4:888158. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.888158
Open Source: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35571743/
Optimization of an Intermittent Finger Endurance Test for Climbers Regarding Gender and Deviation in Force and Pulling Time
Authors: Claudia Augste, Marvin Winkler, Stefan Künzell | Year: 2022
Summary: The study looked at how to score a 60% max-force, 7 s on / 2 s off fingerboard endurance test so it best reflects lead redpoint ability. Instead of changing the protocol, the authors changed the cutoff rules—how much force drop (5–10%) or shortened pulling time (up to ~1 s) still counted as a valid repetition. Men showed a strong relationship between endurance repetitions and grade when the test allowed about a 6% force drop, while women needed a wider 7–10% allowance and also depended more on relative maximal strength to explain performance. These gender-specific patterns suggest endurance tests may need different scoring tolerances for men and women to reflect climbing ability accurately.
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9168274/
Reference: Front Sports Act Living. 2022;4:902521. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.902521
Acute Handgrip Fatigue and Forearm Girth in Recreational Sport Rock Climbers
Authors: MacDonald GA, Manning JW, Bodell NG, Young JC, Schilling BK, Lee S-P, Navalta JW | Year: 2022
Summary/Results: Researchers had ten intermediate climbers top-rope a 5.9 repeatedly for 30 minutes, measuring grip strength and forearm size after every lap. Grip strength fell about 22–23% in both hands while forearm girth increased ~4–5%, and these changes were weakly but consistently linked (bigger forearms came with weaker grips). Climbers did not naturally increase rest duration even as fatigue accumulated, but the authors do not prescribe longer rests — they only suggest that knowing these fatigue patterns may help coaches plan climbing and rest time more effectively.
Reference: Int J Exerc Sci. 2022;15(4):834–845
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9362893/
Grip Strength-Endurance in Recreational and Advanced Climbers: Does the Strength Decrement Index Serve as a Feasible Measure?
Authors: Labott BK, Held S, Donath L. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study tested 28 climbers (17 recreational, 11 advanced) on maximal isometric grip strength and grip strength-endurance using a standard (non-climbing-specific) handgrip dynamometer in different arm positions. Climbers completed repeated work–relief cycles (4 seconds gripping, 1 second rest). Advanced climbers consistently showed higher maximal grip strength, but both groups experienced a similar rate of decline in force (strength decrement index, SDI) during the repetitions. This suggests that endurance capacity in this setup was mainly explained by how strong a climber was at the start rather than by differences in endurance ability. Heart rate and perceived exertion rose across trials but did not meaningfully separate the groups.
Beta Angel note: The authors emphasize that maximal grip strength is a better marker of climbing ability than endurance decline in this context, and they recommend that future performance tests should focus on climbing-specific grips and tasks rather than relying on generalized endurance measures.
Reference:
Labott, B. K., Held, S., & Donath, L. (2020). Grip strength-endurance in recreational and advanced climbers: Does the strength decrement index serve as a feasible measure? International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 17(24), 9530. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph17249530
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7766408/
Forearm isometric fatigue-resistance is enhanced in rock climbers compared to power lifters and aerobically-trained athletes
Authors: Nolan J., McLennan P.L., Peoples G.E. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results: This study tested 8 rock climbers, 7 power lifters, and 6 aerobically trained athletes to compare forearm strength and endurance. Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) of the forearm flexors was used as the strength measure, though the abstract does not specify the exact apparatus or whether the setup was climbing-specific. Across groups, peak MVC values were statistically similar. Where climbers stood out was endurance: they sustained maximal and submaximal contractions for longer periods and lost less force after repeated intermittent contractions. Near infrared spectroscopy showed that climbers’ forearm muscles desaturated oxygen more slowly (took longer to lose oxygen under restricted blood flow), and this was tied to their ability to delay fatigue. These findings suggest climbers are not necessarily stronger in maximum force, but are better adapted to conserve oxygen and resist fatigue during sustained forearm effort.
Beta-angel note: The lack of apparatus detail makes it difficult to know whether this “maximal strength” test translates directly to climbing grip strength. Still, the endurance advantage is clear and strongly tied to climbing-specific adaptation.
Reference: Nolan, J., McLennan, P. L., & Peoples, G. E. (2020). Forearm isometric fatigue-resistance is enhanced in rock climbers compared to power lifters and aerobically-trained athletes. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 60(8), 1057–1064. https://doi.org/10.23736/S0022-4707.20.10542-5
Comparison of the effects of three hangboard strength and endurance programs on grip endurance in sport climbers
Authors: E. López-Rivera, J.J. González-Badillo | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: The researchers compared the effects of three different Hangboard training programs on grip endurance in advanced sport climbers (7c+/8a mean climbing ability). The three programs tested were MaxHangs (4 weeks of maximum added weight dead-hangs followed by 4 weeks of minimum edge dead-hangs), IntHangs (8 weeks of intermittent dead-hangs on minimum edge depth), and Max_IntHangs (4 weeks of maximum added weight dead-hangs followed by 4 weeks of IntHangs). Strength and endurance testing was performed at week 0, week 5, and week 9. The results showed a significant improvement in grip endurance for the IntHangs group after 4 weeks (25.2%) and after 8 weeks (45%), as well as the MaxHangs group after 8 weeks (34.1%). The Max_IntHangs group did not show a significant improvement in grip endurance. Main conclusion: IntHangs are very effective for improving grip endurance, but MaxHangs are also effective. Notes: Interesting that a strength-based program (MaxHangs) showed a 34% increase in grip endurance, but also interesting that it is 17% higher than what the researchers showed in a previous study. This previous study was performed with more advanced sport climbers (8a+/8b mean climbing ability). Contributing Beta-Angel (Connor Davis) note: lower level sport climbers may be better off using the MaxHangs protocol as they can significantly improve small-hold grip endurance while also improving maximum strength.
Reference: J Hum Kinet, 66, 183.
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The effect of cold ambient temperatures on climbing-specific finger flexor performance
AUTHORS: K.C. Phillips, B. Noh, M. Gage, T. Yoon | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers tested the effect of cold and neutral ambient temperatures on the maximum finger strength and finger endurance until failure of 12 rock climbers averaging 5.10c redpoint. Cold conditions appear to matter less for maximum finger strength than they do for holding on for longer periods.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
Evaluating the Rock Prodigy Training Method
AUTHORS: Michael L. Anderson1, Mark L. Anderson | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Authors collected performance data from 118 climbers through an online survey. 69% of respondents indicated they followed 75% of the rock prodigy method, and a mean gain from all respondents of 26.1 lbs per grip after one training season and 38.3 lbs per grip after multiple seasons with 95.3% of respondents suggesting they had improve in climbing itself.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
Finger Strength Improvements with the Rock Prodigy Training Center Hangboard
AUTHORS: Michael L. Anderson, Mark L. Anderson | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The researchers collected training data from 118 users who had trained with the researchers specially-designed hangboard based on design goals of ergonomics, reduction in skin stress, reduction in unused material, and increase in the specificity to rock holds. The survey indicated that training using the researcher’s hangboard increased finger strength by 32% and red point ability by 1.35 Yosemite decimal system letter grades. Self-report data also suggests the potential for reductions in injury using the specially-designed hangboard. Beta-Angel note: 32% and 1.35 YDS improvement? Helpful to know.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Training Programs on Maximal Finger Strength in Rock Climbers
AUTHORS: E. López-Rivera, J. J. González-Badillo | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers studied the impact of three hangboard protocols across 8 weeks on 26 climbers climbing approximately 13a/b. The protocols involved low volume, maximum added weight with long rests, high volume with submaximal intensity and low rest, and a combination. The results favor the low volume, maximum added weight with long rests protocol. Beta-Angel note: low rest for the submaximal intensity group? I’d be so pumped…
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
Effect of interval bouldering on hanging and climbing time to exhaustion
AUTHORS: Jerry Prosper Medernach, Heinz Kleinöder and Helmut Heinz Hermann Lötzerich | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers studied the impact of two training types (interval bouldering and conventional bouldering) over 4 weeks on 24 elite boulderers. Research found that interval boulder training was more effective at increasing intermittent finger hanging and climbing time to exhaustion than conventional bouldering.
REFERENCE: Effect of interval bouldering on hanging and climbing time to exhaustion. (2016). Sports Technology.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/19346182.2015.1063643
Haemodynamic kinetics and intermittent finger flexor performance in rock climbers
AUTHORS: S Fryer, L Stoner, A Lucero, T Witter, C Scarrott, T Dickson, M Cole, N Draper | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers attempted to determine whether blood flow or a muscle’s ability to use oxygen is more important to climbing performance by assessing intermittent contractions to failure, as well as the different phases of finger contraction, in 38 climbers of different abilities. Researchers attribute the greater rate of force across the different phases of contraction in elite climbers as due to greater blood delivery, enhanced oxygen recovery during release, and a superior ability of the muscle to use oxygen.
REFERENCE: Int J Sports Med. 2015 Feb;36(2):137-42.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25251449
Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance
AUTHORS: Macleod, Sutherland, Buntin, Whitaker, Aitchison, Watt, Bradley, Grant | Year: 2007
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers aimed to understand the determinants of endurance in sport rock climbing using intermediate rock climbers and non-climbers on a climbing-specific apparatus. Maximum voluntary contraction was identified, and two isometric endurance tests performed at 40% of MVC, (1) continuous contraction, and (2) intermittent using 10 s, 3 s activity / rest ratio. Muscle blood oxygenation and muscle blood volume were recorded in the flexor digitorum superficialis using near infra-red spectrosocopy. Climbers were better at the intermittent but not continuous test. Recovery of forearm oxygenation during rest phases (intermittent test) explained 41.1% of variability. Researchers conclude that muscle re-oxygenation during rest phases is a predictor of endurance performance.
REFERENCE: Journal of Sports Sciences, Volume 25, 2007
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/02640410600944550?src=recsys&journalCode=rjsp20
Finger flexors fatigue in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects
AUTHORS: Quaine F1, Vigouroux L, Martin L. | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers tested 10 elite climbers against 10 non-climbers using a finger strength endurance exercise whereby participants reached 80% of maximum finger force followed by a 5 second activity, 5 seconds rest ratio until failure. Expert climbers both had higher fingertip force (420 +/- 46 N vs. 342 +/- 56 N) and also were able to maintain more repetitions (19 vs. 12).
REFERENCE: Int J Sports Med. 2003 Aug;24(6):424-7.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12905090
Physiological adaptations in sport rock climbers
AUTHORS: RA Ferguson, MD Brown. | Year: 1999
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Authors measured handgrip force, forearm blood flow and arterial blood pressure during sustained (one continuous contraction) and intermittent (5 seconds on, 2 seconds off) handgrip exercise in five experienced male sport climbers and ten sedentary non-climbers. Authors found no difference in contraction force between climbers and non-climbers on a non-climbing specific apparatus, nor did they find a difference in sustained isometric endurance time – however, climbers were able to continue their intermittent contractions for twice as long as sedentary subjects. Rise in blood pressure was significantly lower in rock climbers.
REFERENCE: International Conference on Science and Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering, 1999 Leeds, UK.
http://dk.mors.si/Dokument.php?id=39&lang=slv