Research > Research Inventory > Biomechanics: Footwork
Pathophysiological Behaviour of the Climber’s Foot versus the General Population
Authors: Cobos-Moreno P, Astasio-Picado Á, Gómez-Martín B. | Year: 2022
Summary: The authors compared foot-pressure patterns and big-toe mobility in 53 climbers and 52 non-climbers to see how long-term climbing habits might alter the foot. Climbers shifted their highest pressure toward the ball of the foot under the big toe (whereas in normal humans it’s usually highest under the ball behind the second toe) and showed stiffer big-toe joints, which the authors note is below what’s normally needed for a strong push-off while walking. Because this was a single barefoot-walking test, the study mainly provides reference values and cautious indicators of possible overuse changes.
Reference: Healthcare (Basel). 2022 May 8;10(5):868. doi: 10.3390/healthcare10050868
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9141719
Rock-Climbing Shoes: A Survey of Attitudes and Practices
Authors: Jenkins DW, Page JC, Stein A, Wissman L, Rowe BA, Rowe FE. | Year: 2022
Summary/Results: This survey of 417 active climbers (mostly intermediate–advanced) found they downsized their shoes less than expected—about one size below street shoes—with elite climbers downsizing the most. Despite an 88% satisfaction rate, experienced climbers reported more problems, especially inconsistent sizing between brands, poor heel fit, and pain at the toes and Achilles. For coaches and clinicians, the practical point is that toe and heel pain often comes from fit issues rather than pure tightness, and brand-to-brand shape differences may matter more than size alone.
Reference: J Am Podiatr Med Assoc. 2022;112(3). doi:10.7547/20-177
Not Open Source: https://doi.org/10.7547/20-177
Investigating Foot Morphology in Rock Climbing Mammals: Inspiration for Biomimetic Climbing Shoes
Authors: Spurrier S, Allen T, Grant RA | Year: 2022
Summary/Results: The authors set out to systematically compare the feet of rock-climbing mammals to other locomotion types to identify design cues for climbing shoes—something no previous study had done across mammals. They photographed and measured feet from 166 species (~3.5% of mammals), but the dataset relies on museum specimens (variable preservation) and subjective online classification of locomotion type. Rock-climbing mammals consistently had fewer digits and much larger, smoother pads or hoof-like structures at the front of the foot than arboreal species, suggesting a design optimized for uniform contact and friction on large rock surfaces. Circular, textured pads common in tree-climbing mammals were largely absent. The authors conclude that climbing shoes already resemble hooved rock-climbers in some ways, and that future shoe design might benefit from adding large soft-contact surfaces or mild friction-enhancing textures to improve grip and shock absorption.
Reference: Biomimetics. 2022 Dec 24;8(1):8. doi: 10.3390/biomimetics8010008
Open Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9844278/
The Effect of Climbing Ability and Slope Inclination on Vertical Foot Loading Using a Novel Force Sensor Instrumentation System
AUTHORS: Jiří Baláš,1 Michaela Panáčková,1 Soňa Jandová,2 Andrew J. Martin,3 Barbora Strejcová,1 Ladislav Vomáčko,1 Jan Charousek,2 Darryl J. Cochrane,3 Mike Hamlin,4 and Nick Draper5,6 | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Assessing effect of climbing ability and slope inclination (85, 90, and 98 degrees) on vertical loading in terms of forces involved and physiological responses using a Novel Pedar-X insole and oxygen uptake and heart rate. Novice climbers had a significantly lower vertical loading on foot holds and higher oxygen uptake and heart rate compared to intermediate climbers. More advanced ability climbers make greater use of foot holds, with associated lowering in physiological response (oxygen uptake and heart rate) across all slopes in wall.
REFERENCE: J Hum Kinet. 2014 Dec 9; 44: 75–81.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4327382/
Joint angle changes with varied foot positioning in rock climbing
AUTHORS: RL Jensen; PB Watts | Year: 2008
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research looked at effect of “high-steps” on the joint angles of elbow, shoulder, hip, knee and ankle and found that when foot position is altered, climbers change the maximum joint angle of other joints. Researchers confirm that changes in foot positioning affect pressure of hands, but suggests it is difficult to find optimization since the effect of one part of the body on another often results in a “compromise.”
REFERENCE: In proceedings of the XXVI Congress of the International Society of Biomechanics in Sports, 2008
http://commons.nmu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1030&context=facwork_conferencepapers