Research > Research Inventory > Biomechanics: Footwork

The Effect of Climbing Ability and Slope Inclination on Vertical Foot Loading Using a Novel Force Sensor Instrumentation System

AUTHORS: Jiří Baláš,1 Michaela Panáčková,1 Soňa Jandová,2 Andrew J. Martin,3 Barbora Strejcová,1 Ladislav Vomáčko,1 Jan Charousek,2 Darryl J. Cochrane,3 Mike Hamlin,4 and Nick Draper5,6  |  Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Assessing effect of climbing ability and slope inclination (85, 90, and 98 degrees) on vertical loading in terms of forces involved and physiological responses using a Novel Pedar-X insole and oxygen uptake and heart rate. Novice climbers had a significantly lower vertical loading on foot holds and higher oxygen uptake and heart rate compared to intermediate climbers. More advanced ability climbers make greater use of foot holds, with associated lowering in physiological response (oxygen uptake and heart rate) across all slopes in wall.
REFERENCE: J Hum Kinet. 2014 Dec 9; 44: 75–81.

Joint angle changes with varied foot positioning in rock climbing

AUTHORS: RL Jensen; PB Watts | Year: 2008
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research looked at effect of “high-steps” on the joint angles of elbow, shoulder, hip, knee and ankle and found that when foot position is altered, climbers change the maximum joint angle of other joints. Researchers confirm that changes in foot positioning affect pressure of hands, but suggests it is difficult to find optimization since the effect of one part of the body on another often results in a “compromise.”
REFERENCE: In proceedings of the XXVI Congress of the International Society of Biomechanics in Sports, 2008