How does language affect skill? Is there “good” language and “bad” language? This video explains the relationship between language, attention, perception, and skill. Additionally, it will discuss the different types of cues (external, internal, somaesthetic, holistic). However, not all cue types are created equal. This will set the stage for WHEN to use which cue approach.
The framework I use is from: Davies, Marianne and Owen, Robin and Gottwald, Victoria and Singh, Harjiv (2024) Harnessing the power of attention: Exploring ‘focus of attention’ theories, practice, and myths. In: Myths of Sport Performance. Sequoia. ISBN 9781914110382. Here’s a downloadable copy.
This video is for educational purposes only. It’s not medical guidance. Train at your own risk.
Below is a short vid on what to expect with MoveSci video analysis. Head to the main MoveSci page to learn more about the skill development training plan as well as a second intro on video analysis.
This video breaks down New Zealand blackcurrant as a lesser-known climbing supplement, covering what it is, what the research shows, and how it may impact performance. We look at both climbing-specific and broader sport studies, including effects on oxygen delivery, recovery between efforts, and local muscle endurance. The video also explores why response may vary between climbers, including differences in absorption, dosing, timing, and individual physiology.
Educational disclaimer: Educational content only. Not medical or nutrition advice. Individual responses vary.
References: Braakhuis, A.J., Somerville, V.X. & Hurst, R.D. (2020). The effect of New Zealand blackcurrant on sport performance and related biomarkers: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Journal of the International Society of Sports Nutrition, 17, 25. Link and License: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7251677/
Debevec, T., & Lee, B.J. (2020). On the climbing performance enhancing effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 120, 1471–1472.
Fryer, S., Paterson, C., Perkins, I., Gloster, C., Willems, M., & Potter, J. (2020). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 30, 1–6.
Fryer, S., Giles, D., Bird, E., Stone, K., Paterson, C., Baláš, J., Willems, M. E. T., Potter, J. A., & Perkins, I. C. (2021). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 21(9), 1290–1298.
Potter, J. A., et al. (2020). Effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on sport climbing performance. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 120(1), 67–75.
Skill development and movement efficiency in climbing may be more connected than most climbers realize. This video breaks down climbing research on how better skill can improve efficiency, movement quality, and decision-making in practice and performance. Research to practice with direct coaching takeaways.
This climbing research may change how you track — and understand — your relationship with endurance and pump. Work is from: Giles et al, “The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers” in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 2018. Check out the YouTube channel for more.
This content is for educational purposes only and is not medical, coaching, or injury-treatment advice. Climbing and training carry inherent risk. Participate at your own risk.
A team from Brazil has published a study on the potential relationship between training preferences and styles of movement in 35 climbers, and potential shoulder issues. They looked at self-report data, but also undertook medical and physical examinations. The study noted concern with shoulder apprehension (a type of movement that involves moving a bent arm out to the side and in a posterior-fashion behind you) during dynamic movement. Authors recommend strength & conditioning, as well as technical adaptations, to minimize stress on joints and tendons in these positions.
My position as Director of a climbing training facility in the United States’ Virginia has enabled me to meet researchers interested in facilitating climbing training. To this end, we collaborated on a user interface that integrates video and sensors attached to the human body, specifically those measuring three physiologic parameters (heart rate, breathing rate, ventilation rate) and one body movement parameter (hip acceleration). This was then time-matched to the video we took: the purpose of which is to help trainers look at the specific movement or sections of climbing wall and their impact. Next step: real time.
Researchers at Rutgers New Jersey Medical School want you to help them understand climbers’ experiences with knee injuries. Some friends of mine, Connie and Kai Lightner reached out to me to help support this and I’d love to help. Please consider checking out the survey if you meet the criteria in the post. Cheers!
Let’s get you caught up: In 2020, Mélissa Le Nevé made an historic ascent of Wolfgang Güllich’s Action Directe, a 5.14d (9a) first climbed in 1991, and arguably the first of its grade in the world. The climb is not only famous for being the first of the grade, it’s also associated with the campus board, a training tool Güllich created and used for his first ascent. It’s basically the original power route. Mélissa’s send was the 27th ascent, which means the climb averages fewer than one ascent per year. The recent Reelrock 15 video which showcased the ascent to the world alludes to the idea that she left the World Cup competition circuit in 2016 to focus on Action Directe.
Melissa Le Nevé and Mina Markovic during qualification at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010. Manfred Werner – Tsui (2010). Creative Commons.
I reached out to her coach, Guillaume Levernier, for an interview. I had met Guillaume in Chamonix, France (2018) at a climbing research conference where he spoke about his research into rate of force development (think contact strength). You can see a discussion with the Lattice Training Community here and a practical on his research team’s protocol here. I reached out for two reasons: (1) Coaches don’t get much credit for helping their athletes, but Mélissa was an outspoken advocate for his support and credited her success to his training, and (2) he’s a researcher!!!!!! OMG. Research and Practice rolled up into one awesome French crew.
— Here’s the interview —
The Beta Angel Project: “Melissa suggested you created a plan for her to go after Action Direct. Can you give us a high-level overview (big picture!) of what that plan looked like?”
Guillaume: “When I have started working with Melissa (in 2018), she was injured at fingers, elbow and shoulders. My first goal was the rehabilitate these injuries. To do so, I used specific exercises, with a fine tuning of the intensity of training sessions.
“We worked to improve the intrinsic qualities of her finger (strength and rate of force development), arms, and overall endurance. Furthermore, I used many « Pilates-inspired » exercises to train the transverse, external and internal oblique and the anterior serratus. A report is in preparation, I can give you more information about the plan later, if you wish.”
The Beta Angel Project: “That would be great, Guillaume! My next question: In the past, you’ve published climbing-specific work on the upper-limb power test (2014), training vs. morphological characteristics (2016), an experimental protocol to increase RFD using a hangboard (2017), distinctions between measuring RFD at different points on the time-force slope (2018), and a method to determine power in different types of climbers during a pull-up (2020). Did any of this research directly inform your recommendations for Melissa?”
Guillaume: “First of all, I am a trainer. Therefore, my research has been done with the understanding and optimization of performance as a main goal. The title of my PhD is : Biomechanical determinants of performance in climbing : study of the strength of the upper limbs and the force-velocity-power relationship in high level athletes. During my PhD, I had the great opportunity to work with many climbers of the French national team (bouldering, lead and speed climbing).
“I have investigated the morphological differences between both novice and elite climbers, and speed, lead and bouldering world top climbers (Laffaye, Levernier, and Collin 2016). I have also studied the impact of the training on the performance of elite climbers. Very few works did exist on this topic, and [they are] mainly focused on the maximal force a climber can produce. I have shown that another parameter was very important : the rate at which force is developed (name[ly] rate of force development (RFD)). My opinion is that this parameter is the real key of performance. Indeed, for dynamic moves, the time lapse available to produce force can be very short.”
The Beta Angel Project. “Just a quick follow-up: What were some of the practical implications you took from your research for Melissa?”
Guillaume: “In order to pass Action Direct, the key is to produce the maximal force as fast as possible. Thus, I used the results of two of my articles (Levernier and Laffaye 2019a)(Levernier and Laffaye 2019b) to optimize the training program of Melissa. Moreover, I read a lot of paper about biomechanical constraints of the fingers, function of the prehension in order to avoid possible injuries.
“But if the plan is good, the relationship with Melissa is crucial. She trusted me during these preparations and I really appreciated that. We are a good team. It’s my work to help her during hard phases (frustrations, failures). If you want to be a good coach, never forget this part. When you tried big projects during many years, the mental is crucial.”
The Beta Angel Project: “I don’t want to overstate the impact of climbing-specific research directly to training, so can you provide a sense of where you pulled research from non-climbing sources? Further, was there anywhere you wished you would have had additional research to inform Melissa’s training?”
Guillaume: “I worked during months with international climbers, Sergio Pastor (Spanish national team) and others climbers. I have now a strong experience as a trainer and as a coach. My main concern is to know how I can improve the training I am offering. To do so, my academic research is really useful, but surely not sufficient. I still need to learn, in particular by sharing experience with physiotherapist, chiropractic, etc…
“I love sharing experience with trainers, and I think this very important to improve oneself. Any trainer or climber, who may be interested to discuss with me can send me a message (guillaume dot levernier1 at gmail dot com). I would be happy to share my personal point of view about training.”
Thanks to Guillaume for sharing his thoughts. I’ll post an update if/when I receive more information, such as the alluded-to report. Here’s a short list of Guillaume’s research:
Laffaye, G., G. Levernier, and J. M. Collin. 2016. “Determinant Factors in Climbing Ability: Influence of Strength, Anthropometry, and Neuromuscular Fatigue.” Scandinavian Journal of Medicine and Science in Sports 26(10):1151–59.
Levernier, Guillaume and Guillaume Laffaye. 2019a. “Four Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers.” Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 33(9):2471–80.
Levernier, Guillaume and Guillaume Laffaye. 2019b. “Rate of Force Development and Maximal Force : Reliability and Difference between Non-Climbers , Skilled and International Climbers.” Sports Biomechanics 1–12.
Levernier, G., Samozino, P., and Laffaye, G. 2020. “Force–Velocity–Power Profile in Q1 High Elite Boulder, Lead, Speed Climber Competitors.” International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 15(7)
