Rock Climbing Research and Practical Application: A Resource for the Climbing Community
I joined Kris Hampton a little while back on the Power Company Climbing Podcast to discuss climbing research, skill acquisition, and coaching.
Original episode: Listen on Power Company Climbing
If the player does not load, listen directly here: Power Company Climbing episode
How does language affect skill? Is there “good” language and “bad” language? This video explains the relationship between language, attention, perception, and skill. Additionally, it will discuss the different types of cues (external, internal, somaesthetic, holistic). However, not all cue types are created equal. This will set the stage for WHEN to use which cue approach.
The papers:
Gottwald, Davies, Owen. Every story has two sides: evaluating information processing and ecological dynamics perspectives of focus of attention in skill acquisition. Front Sports Act Living. 2023 May 24;5:1176635
Davies, Marianne and Owen, Robin and Gottwald, Victoria and Singh, Harjiv (2024) Harnessing the power of attention: Exploring ‘focus of attention’ theories, practice, and myths. In: Myths of Sport Performance. Sequoia. ISBN 9781914110382
This video is for educational purposes only. It’s not medical guidance. Train at your own risk.
#climbing #sportclimbing #climbingresearch #climbingtraining #bouldering
How does language affect skill? Is there “good” language and “bad” language? This video explains the relationship between language, attention, perception, and skill. Additionally, it will discuss the different types of cues (external, internal, somaesthetic, holistic). However, not all cue types are created equal. This will set the stage for WHEN to use which cue approach.
The framework I use is from: Davies, Marianne and Owen, Robin and Gottwald, Victoria and Singh, Harjiv (2024) Harnessing the power of attention: Exploring ‘focus of attention’ theories, practice, and myths. In: Myths of Sport Performance. Sequoia. ISBN 9781914110382. Here’s a downloadable copy.
This video is for educational purposes only. It’s not medical guidance. Train at your own risk.
Below is a short vid on what to expect with MoveSci video analysis. Head to the main MoveSci page to learn more about the skill development training plan as well as a second intro on video analysis.
Educational content only. Not medical or nutrition advice. Individual responses vary.
This video breaks down New Zealand blackcurrant as a lesser-known climbing supplement, covering what it is, what the research shows, and how it may impact performance. We look at both climbing-specific and broader sport studies, including effects on oxygen delivery, recovery between efforts, and local muscle endurance. The video also explores why response may vary between climbers, including differences in absorption, dosing, timing, and individual physiology.
Educational disclaimer: Educational content only. Not medical or nutrition advice. Individual responses vary.
References:
Braakhuis, A.J., Somerville, V.X. & Hurst, R.D. (2020). The effect of New Zealand blackcurrant on sport performance and related biomarkers: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Journal of the International Society of Sports Nutrition, 17, 25. Link and License: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7251677/
Debevec, T., & Lee, B.J. (2020). On the climbing performance enhancing effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 120, 1471–1472.
Fryer, S., Paterson, C., Perkins, I., Gloster, C., Willems, M., & Potter, J. (2020). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during forearm exercise in intermediate-level rock climbers. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 30, 1–6.
Fryer, S., Giles, D., Bird, E., Stone, K., Paterson, C., Baláš, J., Willems, M. E. T., Potter, J. A., & Perkins, I. C. (2021). New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 21(9), 1290–1298.
Perkins, I. C., Blacker, S. D., & Willems, M. E. T. (2024). Individual responses to repeated dosing with anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant extract during high-intensity intermittent treadmill running in active males. Nutrients, 16(24), 4253. Link and License: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/386748781_Individual_Responses_to_Repeated_Dosing_with_Anthocyanin-Rich_New_Zealand_Blackcurrant_Extract_During_High-Intensity_Intermittent_Treadmill_Running_in_Active_Males
Potter, J. A., et al. (2020). Effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on sport climbing performance. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 120(1), 67–75.
Skill development and movement efficiency in climbing may be more connected than most climbers realize. This video breaks down climbing research on how better skill can improve efficiency, movement quality, and decision-making in practice and performance. Research to practice with direct coaching takeaways.
This climbing research may change how you track — and understand — your relationship with endurance and pump. Work is from: Giles et al, “The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers” in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 2018. Check out the YouTube channel for more.
This content is for educational purposes only and is not medical, coaching, or injury-treatment advice. Climbing and training carry inherent risk. Participate at your own risk.
A team from Brazil has published a study on the potential relationship between training preferences and styles of movement in 35 climbers, and potential shoulder issues. They looked at self-report data, but also undertook medical and physical examinations. The study noted concern with shoulder apprehension (a type of movement that involves moving a bent arm out to the side and in a posterior-fashion behind you) during dynamic movement. Authors recommend strength & conditioning, as well as technical adaptations, to minimize stress on joints and tendons in these positions.
My position as Director of a climbing training facility in the United States’ Virginia has enabled me to meet researchers interested in facilitating climbing training. To this end, we collaborated on a user interface that integrates video and sensors attached to the human body, specifically those measuring three physiologic parameters (heart rate, breathing rate, ventilation rate) and one body movement parameter (hip acceleration). This was then time-matched to the video we took: the purpose of which is to help trainers look at the specific movement or sections of climbing wall and their impact. Next step: real time.
Abstract Available Here.
Full Text Available Here.
