The Beta Angel Project

Bridging Climbers and Science

The purpose of the Beta Angel Project is to build a better “bridge” between climbers and climbing research. This website serves as a resource for the rock climbing community to inform, translate, and provide novel research and ideas on training and technique.

You can explore an always expanding inventory of summarized research (and conclusions), personal research from the project, project articles which incorporate either research or best practice, highlights of community engagement, and practical application through experimental training.

If you identify research that isn’t in the inventory, just send a link over and we’ll get it into the inventory. If you have a question or a video recommendation, ask or comment. Are you a researcher who wants to showcase the practical application potential of your work? Send us a request. Want to see something else? Let us know.

Science and Community

Research > Science and Community Communities of climbers should have the chance to discuss and weigh in on the practical implications of research! Here, you will find the collaborative work that the Beta Angel Project engages in with climbing communities from around the world. It usually starts with a request based on what the community…

Experimental Training

Research > Experimental Training I plan to do very short write-ups on experimental training protocols which I read about in the climbing research literature. These won’t require any special equipment outside of what you would find in a typical climbing gym. Come back here for new ideas about how researchers are studying training. Be warned:…

Syntheses

16 year old Charlie Osborne on his way to a 7th place finish at his first adult Sport Climbing Nationals. Image courtesy of Jennie Jariel. Research > Syntheses In Brief: A synthesis of a topic combines evidence and ideas in order to create a broader understanding of a subject than the individual research could provide…

Technology Reviews

Research > Technology Reviews Check back here for reviews of some of the latest, burning technology on the way to climbing gyms and homes. Finger Training & AssessmentDigital Hangboard Platforms Finger Protection & RehabilitationThe Pulley Protection BraceHydrolyzed Collagen

Research Inventory

UPDATE: All 2018 Research Summaries Published Here! The research inventory is a non-exhaustive list of English-language climbing research about human performance in climbing (you won’t find articles in here on, say, the impact of chalk on cliffs). This inventory intentionally over-simplifies the articles in order to make them more accessible to general readers. This approach…

Data Collection

Welcome to the Beta Angel Project’s data collection page. Here, you’ll find detailed information on questions which lend themselves to a data-oriented or methods-driven approach. The genesis of this page was a failed essay entitled: “Why is Jain Kim Such a Great Climber?” After a single draft – the essay was put on hold amidst…