Beta Angel Project Publishes Research integrating video and climber measurements

My position as Director of a climbing training facility in the United States’ Virginia has enabled me to meet researchers interested in facilitating climbing training. To this end, we collaborated on a user interface that integrates video and sensors attached to the human body, specifically those measuring three physiologic parameters (heart rate, breathing rate, ventilation rate) and one body movement parameter (hip acceleration). This was then time-matched to the video we took: the purpose of which is to help trainers look at the specific movement or sections of climbing wall and their impact. Next step: real time.

Abstract Available Here.

Full Text Available Here.

Help Request — 2019 Rock Climbing Research

I could use some help. Every year for the past few years I’ve been summarizing the previous year’s published rock climbing performance research, and publishing a summary as well as adding those articles to the Beta Angel Research Inventory.

My goal is to:

  • make sure that the rock climbing community has access to plain language summaries of the research literature.
  • have a working knowledge of the research in order to facilitate the growing number of requests I get every year for information about climbing research.

Without help, summarizing each year’s growing body of research literature would quickly become a burden for me alone. Last year I had help from some wonderful folks in Utah. This year I’d love to have even more help so no one has to read more than a few papers (except likely me — who loves this stuff).

If you’re interested, please contact me. All I ask is that you have some familiarity with graduate-level research papers, either through graduate-level research itself, work on a degree, or at your place of employment. Thanks, and happy holidays!