A team from Brazil has published a study on the potential relationship between training preferences and styles of movement in 35 climbers, and potential shoulder issues. They looked at self-report data, but also undertook medical and physical examinations. The study noted concern with shoulder apprehension (a type of movement that involves moving a bent arm out to the side and in a posterior-fashion behind you) during dynamic movement. Authors recommend strength & conditioning, as well as technical adaptations, to minimize stress on joints and tendons in these positions.

Read the full study here.

Picture from Study by Mena et al. (2024) showing a dynamic climbing movement with shoulder in an “apprehension position” (see picture B).

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