Written by I was invited to speak with Professor Renato Vilella, a Brazilian professor, physiotherapist, and researcher specializing in climbing risk. He was particularly interested in injury. We discussed the following four questions:
- How does injury affects the performance of the athletes.
- How do I deal with athletes who get injured?
- How do I train or use movement training with the athletes in post-injury movement?
- How can we prevent injuries, and how can we prevent negative psychological outcomes after injury?
We discussed everything from cueing athletes, to movement and training avoidance, to movement pattern shifts, to research on warming up the fingers, technology which is becoming more easily available, and other topics.
Fair warning, the video is about an hour long but during it I got a chance to speak and trade information with someone who is as passionate about climbing and performance as I am. Cheers.
The Beta Angel Project 