Research > Research Inventory > Cognitive-Motor Learning: Grabbing
Influence of the flexor digitorum superficialis tendon transfer on grip strength
Authors: Angelina Garkisch, Stefanie Schmitt, Marion Mühldorfer-Fodor | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: This study examined how transferring the FDS tendon from the ring finger to the thumb affects grip strength. Grip force decreased most in the ring finger when using smaller cylinders (10 cm), while on larger cylinders (20 cm) forces were more evenly distributed with only a slight reduction in the ring finger and slight increases in others.
Sample Size and Ability: 10 post-surgical patients (not climbers), assessed 5–128 months after FDS tendon transfer.
Training Implications: Grip deficits may be more pronounced on smaller holds than larger ones after structural hand changes. Training for injured or post-operative climbers may need to emphasize small hold control if FDS function is altered.
Paywall: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/17531934211061220
Reference: Garkisch A, Schmitt S, Mühldorfer-Fodor M. Influence of the flexor digitorum superficialis tendon transfer on grip strength. Journal of Hand Surgery (European Volume). 2021;47(4). https://doi.org/10.1177/17531934211061220
Beta Angel Note: Not climbing-specific, but provides insight into how structural changes in the hand affect grip performance.
Metacarpal Squeezing Reduces Grip Strength
Authors: S. Erinç, E. Uygur, M. Akkaya, F. Akpınar | Year: 2022
Summary/Results: This study tested whether compressing the metacarpal region (across the palm) affects grip strength. Narrowing hand width by 10% reduced grip strength by ~33.4% in both dominant and non-dominant hands, even though participants did not feel tightness.
Sample Size and Ability: 42 healthy adults (ages 18–45) tested with a dynamometer under normal and compressed conditions.
Training Implications: Compression across the palm (e.g., tight tape, wraps, casts) can significantly reduce grip strength. Limiting metacarpal spacing may impair force production. Avoid compressing this area when maximal grip force is needed.
Paywall: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.hansur.2021.09.005
Reference: Erinç S, Uygur E, Akkaya M, Akpınar F. Metacarpal Squeezing Reduces Grip Strength. Hand Surg Rehabil. 2022;41(1):37–41.
Effects of vibratory massage therapy on grip strength, endurance time and forearm muscle performance
Authors: Alam MM, Khan AA, Farooq M | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: Grip endurance time increased after 35 Hz vibration massage, while grip strength did not change significantly. EMG showed higher activity in extensor carpi ulnaris at 23 Hz and flexor carpi ulnaris at 35 Hz, with extensors generally more active. Fatigue was greater at 23 Hz but decreased by the fourth day with 35 Hz exposure.
Population: 10 healthy, right-handed adult males (non-climbers)
Training Implications: 35 Hz vibration may improve grip endurance without reducing strength. Monitor extensor fatigue early, especially at lower frequencies like 23 Hz. Progressive exposure across a week may reduce fatigue and improve adaptation.
Open Source: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.3233/WOR-203397
Reference: Alam MM, Khan AA, Farooq M. Effects of vibratory massage therapy on grip strength, endurance time and forearm muscle performance. WORK: A Journal of Prevention, Assessment & Rehabilitation. 2021. https://doi.org/10.3233/WOR-203397
Glucose Regulation and Grip Strength in Adults: Findings from the Helsinki Birth Cohort Study
Authors: Max J. Åström, Mikaela B. von Bonsdorff, Minna K. Salonen, Eero Kajantie, Clive Osmond, Johan G. Eriksson | Year: 2021
Goal: Not a climbing-specific study. This study examined how glucose regulation (including prediabetes and diabetes) relates to grip strength in adults.
Summary/Results: Adults with newly diagnosed or existing diabetes had lower grip strength (about −1.8 kg on average, range −3.2 to −0.4 kg) compared to those with normal glucose levels. There were no significant differences between prediabetes and normal glucose groups. Grip strength was measured with a dynamometer and adjusted for age, sex, BMI, physical activity, education, and smoking.
Sample Size and Ability: 1,877 adults (mean age 61.6 years) from the Helsinki Birth Cohort Study.
Training Implications: Grip strength may serve as a general health marker in older adults or those at risk for diabetes. Coaches working with aging climbers may use grip strength as a broader wellness indicator, not just performance.
Open Source: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/348679725_Glucose_regulation_and_grip_strength_in_adults_Findings_from_the_Helsinki_Birth_Cohort_Study
Reference: Åström MJ, von Bonsdorff MB, Salonen MK, Kajantie E, Osmond C, Eriksson JG. Glucose regulation and grip strength in adults: Findings from the Helsinki Birth Cohort Study. Archives of Gerontology and Geriatrics. 2021;94:104348. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.archger.2021.104348
Climbers’ Perception of Hold Surface Properties: Roughness Versus Slip Resistance
Authors: Franz Konstantin Fuss, Yehuda Weizman, Günther Niegl, Adin Ming Tan | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study tested whether climbers base their grip on a hold’s grippiness (how much it resists sliding) or its roughness (how textured it feels). Using 14 different hold surfaces and force-measuring equipment, researchers found that grip force (measured as coefficient of friction) was much more strongly linked to perceived grippiness than roughness. Although roughness was easier to feel, climbers adjusted grip based on slip resistance instead. Half the climbers showed no clear personal pattern, but at the group level, grippiness consistently predicted grip force. More experienced climbers tended to show stronger alignment with surface properties.
Beta-Angel note: This study calls into question the common belief that roughness is what makes a hold feel secure—showing that slip resistance, not texture, drives how climbers actually grip.
Reference: Front Sports Act Living. 2020 Dec 17;2:603860. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2020.603860.
https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/psychology/articles/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00252/full
Effects of finger taping on forearm muscle activation in rock climbers.
Authors: Dykes, Johnson, San Juan | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: Researchers attempted to answer whether taping your fingers affects your pulling muscles by measuring activity associated with the FDS and FDP (flexor digitorum superficialis and profundus – two long flexor tendons in your forearms) with taped wrapped circumferentially around the fingers, the “H-Tape” method, and no tape. The authors found no distinctions in the activity measured between the two flexor tendons, which leads them to suggest that their results do not support the use of tape for injury prevention purposes. Beta-Angel note: the hypothesis was that taping may shift activation from the FDP, which has previously noted to increase in the crimp grip, to the FDS, thus facilitating injury prevention. While the authors didn’t find this effect, it’s also interesting that they didn’t confirm the increased activation of the FDP in the crimp grip position as reported in the 2006 Vigouroux and 2011 Schweizer and Hudek studies – possibly due to the size of the sample.
Reference: J Electromyogr Kinesiol. 2019 Apr;45:11-17.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30721754
The influence of hold regularity on perceptual-motor behaviour in indoor climbing.
Authors: Button C, Orth D, Davids K, Seifert L. | Year: 2018
Summary/results: Nine participants (5.11d – 5.13d) climbed two routes; the first route consisted of 18 different hold types and shapes, whereas the second route consisted of only 2 holds. Surprisingly, the climbers found the climb with fewer hold types (regular route) more challenging – potentially due to increased technical demands. The routes were intended to be the same difficulty with similar topographical hold positioning. Beta-Angel note: this article is interesting due to its somewhat confusing findings. Why did these climbers spend longer looking at, and climbing, the regular route? Why did they perceive it as harder as well? The authors suggest a few options, including the idea that irregularity can be exploited by skilled performers, that restrictive climbing routes may be perceived as more difficult, and that these restrictive routes may require more effort to climb fluidly.
Reference: Eur J Sport Sci. 2018 Sep;18(8):1090-1099.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29792113
Cognitive-Motor Learning > Grabbing
Effect of Magnesium Carbonate Use on Repeated Open-Handed and Pinch Grip Weight-Assisted Pull-Ups.
Author: NT Bacon, GA Ryan, JE Wingo, MT Richardson, T. Pangallo, PA Bishop | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: Researchers attached climbing holds to a pull-up weight assistance machine in order to understand the effect of chalk on a pulling motion using an open-hand and pinch grip. Chalk improved both open hand and pinch grip pull-up repetitions in recreational climbers at the V1-V7 grade range. Beta Angel note: The authors attempt to synthesize previous, contradictory information regarding the effect of chalk on the coefficient of friction. While they aren’t clear on the reasons for the contradiction, they suggest it could be the differences in each study’s set-up and fall on the side of “chalk helps.” Additionally, there is some interesting writing on the relationship of the direction of grabbing with the wrist’s position and the pulling muscles which should influence future research on limb positioning.
Reference: Int J Exerc Sci. 2018 Jan 1;11(4):479-492. eCollection 2018.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5841679/
Cognitive-Motor Learning > Grabbing
Physiological responses during two climbing tests with different hold types
AUTHOR: Michail L Michailov, Robert Rokowski, Tomasz Ręgwelski, Robert Staszkiewicz, Lee E Brown, Zbigniew Szygula | Year: 2017
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Investigators measured the differences in heart rate, oxygen consumption, and blood lactate (a byproduct of the body’s use of simple sugars formed in association with muscular fatigue, often associated with being “pumped”) using two different hold inclinations, or slants. The increased “slant,” which makes a hold more difficult to grab, appears to correlate with higher spikes in peak consumption and heart rate. Interestingly, the clearance rate of lactate between minute 3 and minute 20 in elite climber forearms was significantly correlated with outside climbing performance, and that a climber’s peak oxygen consumption during the test is important as an indicator of difficulty. Further, the authors suggest averaged values for heart rate, oxygen consumption, and lactate at 3 minutes can be used for performance evaluation but not as intensity indicators. Beta-Angel note: We found a copy! Thank you! Beta Angel has their very own angel looking out for us. UPDATED on 2/13/2019. Oh my Goodness, the lactate clearance article! You’re looking at a legend right here folks.
REFERENCE: International Journal of Sports Science & Coaching, 2017. Vol 12, Issue 2
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1747954117694740
Magnesium Carbonate (Chalk) Increases Hang-Time Until Failure in Rock Climbing
AUTHOR: MA Kilgas, SN Drum, RL Jensen, KC Phillips, PB Watts | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured climbing time, geometric entropy from two angles, muscle electricity activity, hang time on a hold, the coefficient of friction, and the force ratio between hands and feet – all under two conditions: with chalk and without chalk. Chalk had no significant difference on any of the parameters with the exception of hang time, which was significantly longer with chalk.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
Motor Unit Activation Strategy During a Sustained Isometric Contraction of Finger Flexor Muscles in Elite Climbers
AUTHOR: Eloisa Limonta, Emiliano Cè, Massimiliano Gobbo, Arsenio Veicsteinas, Claudio Orizio and Fabio Esposito | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research found that climbing specific activity increased a person’s maximum voluntary contraction, endurance, force accuracy and stability during a handgrip isometric effect. Suggests adaptability of motor control system after climbing experience.
REFERENCE: Motor unit activation strategy during a sustained isometric contraction of finger flexor muscles in elite climbers. (2016). Journal Of Sports Sciences.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/02640414.2015.1035738#.V4kw42PSfUo
Reliability of Force Application to Instrumented Climbing Holds in Elite Climbers
AUTHOR: Lars Donath and Peter Wolf | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers analyzed climbers’ ability to hold onto handholds in an onsight and a redpoint bouldering format. Reliability of the data throughout trials increased during redpoint format trials.
REFERENCE: Reliability of Force Application to Instrumented Climbing Holds In Elite Climbers. JAB, 31(5), 377-382.
http://europepmc.org/abstract/med/25950657
Expertise affects representation structure and categorical activation of grasp postures in climbing
AUTHOR: BE Blasing, I Guldenpenning, D Koester, T Schack | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Blasing et al. compared both climbers and non-climbers on the visual inspection of holds as well as the groups’ potential understanding of how to grab holds. The researchers suggest that their findings are evidence that understanding and categorizing holds is influenced by a subject’s ability to, through the impact of their prior experience on both cognition and action, understand their own potential to grab a hold. Beta-Angel note: probable connection to some of the work on exploration in movement.
REFERENCE: Front Psychol. 2014 Sep 15;5:1008.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25309480
An assessment of the performance of grip enhancing agents used in sports applications AND Skin friction at the interface between hands and sports equipment
AUTHOR: R. Lewis, MJ Carre, SE Tomlinson, JW Collins | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The authors sought to identify the relationship of friction and sandstone under different conditions: normal chalk, liquid chalk, and bare fingers. On sandstone, no difference in friction was identified between normal chalk, liquid chalk, and a damp chalk-free finger. However, for a dry, chalk-free finger, lower friction was found probably because fine stone particles create a “solid lubricat[ing] effect”.
REFERENCE: Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part J: Journal of Engineering Tribology, 226 (J7) AND Procedia Engineering 72 (2014) 611 – 617
PDF: http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/98047/2/WRRO_98047.pdf AND http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1877705814005803
Measurement of the Coefficient of Friction and the Centre of Pressure of a Curved Surface of a Climbing Handhold
Author: Fuss et al. | Year: 2013
Summary: No Summary Available Yet.
Reference: Procedia Engineering, 60, 2013: 491-495
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1877705813010965
The effect of chalk on the finger-hold friction coefficient in rock climbing
AUTHOR: AM Amca, L Vigouroux, S. Aritan, E. Berton | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Authors tested friction on sandstone and limestone rock using 11 experienced climbers and a specially designed hang board that tilted in angle until climbers fell. Chalk was beneficial on both rock types, and sandstone had both higher friction as well as well as an increased positive effect of chalk over limestone, confirming that chalk enhances friction and that it enhances it differently based on rock-type. Beta-Angel note: This is the study that I’ve seen referenced during arguments about whether humidity and temperature impact friction coefficient. The authors specifically note that more work needs to be done to understand the effects of climate on finger friction.
REFERENCE: Sprots Biomechanics, Vol 11 (4), 2012
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/14763141.2012.724700?src=recsys
The importance of friction between hand and hold in rock climbing
AUTHOR: F.K. Fuss, G. Niegl | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Authors review what is known about friction and rock climbing in terms of specific variables (coefficient of friction, point of impending slippage) and their relationship with performance parameters (e.g. impulse, smoothness factor). Authors state that 64% of friction cannot be explained by the influence of performance parameters, and that chalk on the hand and fingers enhances friction, whereas chalk on both hand and holds reduces it.
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012 3-4: Climbing Technology
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.755539
Effect of Object Width on Muscle and Joint Forces During Thumb–Index Finger Grasping
Authors: Vigouroux, Domalain, Berton | Year: 2011
Summary/Results: Beta-Angel note: while not a paper which even mentions rock climbing, the lead author is a climbing researcher (and strong boulderer – I climbed with him in Chamonix, France) and the experimental design using multiple-width pinch grips that exploit the fingertips is one which has obvious rock climbing implications.
Reference: Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 2011, 27, 173-180
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/942d/5ecc01f5d656e1cf83b950c923fd6cb0f196.pdf
Use of ‘chalk’ in rock climbing: sine qua non or myth?
AUTHOR: FX Li, S. Margetts, I. Fowler | Year: 2001
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured the ratio between the force of the hand and the force of the hold being pulled away from the hand (called the coefficient of friction) in 15 participants. The primary conclusion was that chalk decreased the coefficient of friction, possibly because it dries the skin and creates a slippery granular layer. Beta-Angel note: please note the comment regarding issues with the design of the study.
REFERENCE: J Sports Sci. 2001 Jun;19(6):427-32.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11411778
Postural constraints modify the organization of grasping movements
AUTHOR: Bourdin, Teasdale, Nougier, Bard, Fleury | Year: 1999
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers tested grasping movements using two variables: Posture (easy vs. complex) and Hold Depth (.8, 2, and 5 cm). Researchers found that the movement duration was shorter for the complex posture than for the simpler one and that hold depth did not influence the speed at which the climbers grabbed. The authors suggest that there is an ordering of priorities between posturing for the hold, and grabbing the hold, and that posturing is higher.
REFERENCE: Human Movement Science Volume 18, Issue 1, February 1999, Pages 87–102
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0167945798000360
High postural constraints affect the organization of reaching and grasping movements
AUTHOR: Bourdin C, Teasdale N, Nougier V. | Year: 1998
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Four expert climbers participated in a study measuring the vertical forces applied by the hands using a strain gauge. The climbers performed grasping moves toward both easy and difficult holds in two different postures (standing and climbing). Researchers found that while climbing, the duration of the hand for grasping a difficult hold was shorter than for grasping an easier hold. Researchers suggest that posture may matter more than accuracy in rock climbing.
Beta-Angel note: Position. Position. Position.
REFERENCE: Exp Brain Res. 1998 Oct;122(3):253-9.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9808298