Research > Research Inventory > Biomechanics: Finger Strength
Which Is the Most Reliable Edge Depth to Measure Maximum Hanging Time in Sport Climbers?
Authors: Eva López-Rivera, Juan José González-Badillo, Vanesa España-Romero | Year: 2022
Summary/Results: This study compared maximum hanging time reliability across 6, 8, 10, 12, and 14 mm edges. The 8 mm edge produced the most consistent results overall. For climbers in the 6b–7c range, 10 mm was also reliable, while climbers from 7c+ to 8c showed consistent results on 12 mm. Elite climbers showed reliable results across all edge sizes.
Sample Size and Ability: 36 climbers (6b–8c redpoint), tested twice one week apart; 25 non-elite and 11 elite.
Training Implications: An 8 mm edge may provide the most consistent results for tracking hanging time. A 10 mm edge is suitable for mid-level climbers (6b–7c), while a 12 mm edge may be better for advanced climbers (7c+–8c). Consistent edge depth across sessions is critical for tracking real changes.
Paywall: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.gaitpost.2021.09.200
Reference: López-Rivera E, González-Badillo JJ, España-Romero V. Which Is the Most Reliable Edge Depth to Measure Maximum Hanging Time in Sport Climbers? Gait Posture. 2022;91:59–65.
MBboard: Validity and Reliability of a New Tool Developed to Evaluate Specific Strength in Rock Climbers
Authors: Marino, T. K., Coelho, D. B., Lima-Silva, A. E., & Bertuzzi, R. | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: This study tested a simple setup (MBboard) that uses a small climbing hold attached to a cable machine to measure climbing-specific pulling strength. Ten male climbers were compared to ten active non-climbers using a one-arm seated cable row 1RM. Climbers produced about 37.5% more force and showed higher finger flexor activation (~51%), suggesting the test actually captures climbing-specific demand. Performance on the test was strongly related to climbing ability (r > 0.72), and results were consistent across sessions (ICC = 0.79–0.85). The climbers averaged about 17 ± 3 on the IRCRA scale.
Training Implications: The setup combines finger force and pulling in one movement, which is a step toward more climbing-specific testing than isolated grip measures. However, the seated row position doesn’t fully match climbing demands, so a similar setup in a vertical pulling or hanging position may transfer more directly to on-wall performance.
Reference: Marino, T. K., Coelho, D. B., Lima-Silva, A. E., & Bertuzzi, R. (2021). MBboard: Validity and Reliability of a New Tool Developed to Evaluate Specific Strength in Rock Climbers. Journal of Human Kinetics, 79, 5–13. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8336553/
Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial
Authors: Saskia Mundry, Gino Steinmetz, Elizabeth J. Atkinson, Arndt F. Schilling, Volker R. Schöffl, Dominik Saul | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: This study compared 8 weeks of hangboard training using added weight (HW) vs. decreasing edge size (HE) against climbing alone. Only the added weight group showed significant grip strength improvements, with the largest gains in compound pinch tests. Effect sizes ranged from trivial in controls (g = 0.03) to moderate in the HW group (g = 0.59). The edge-size reduction group showed no significant strength gains.
Sample Size and Ability: 27 climbers (9 women, 18 men), mean IRCRA redpoint level 14 ± 4.
Training Implications: Adding weight on a fixed 25 mm edge appears more effective for strength development than reducing edge size. Strength gains transfer best to compound grips involving multiple fingers or full-hand engagement. Reducing edge size may be more useful for endurance or lower-load contexts.
Open Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8241953/
Reference: Mundry S, Steinmetz G, Atkinson EJ, Schilling AF, Schöffl VR, Saul D. Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial. Scientific Reports. 2021;11:13530.
Beta Angel Note: One of the few randomized comparisons of weight-based vs. edge-size-based hangboard training, highlighting differences in strength outcomes.
The Effect of Posture on Maximum Grip Strength Measurements
Authors: Zheng-yang Xu, Deng-fa Gao, Ke Xu, Zi-qi Zhou, Ying-kun Guo | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: Standing with the elbow fully extended produced the highest grip strength values in both men and women. Sitting positions (elbow flexed or extended) resulted in lower grip strength, with no difference between sitting postures. Results were based on 764 adults and remained consistent after adjusting for sex, age, BMI, and other factors. This study used a general adult population, not climbers.
Training Implications: Standardize grip strength testing using a standing position with the elbow fully extended for consistency. Avoid seated testing positions when comparing across athletes or tracking changes over time.
Reference: Xu Z, Gao D, Xu K, Zhou Z, Guo Y. The Effect of Posture on Maximum Grip Strength Measurements. Journal of Clinical Densitometry. 2021. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jocd.2021.01.005
The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climber’s isometric finger strength
Authors: Oliver Torr, Thomas Randall, Remus Knowles, David Giles, Stephen Atkins | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study examined whether a simple, low-cost test of maximal isometric finger strength (MIFS) could be both reliable (consistent between tests) and valid (closely tied to climbing ability). Fifteen advanced-to-elite climbers completed two test sessions, while a larger dataset of 229 intermediate to higher-elite climbers was used to compare MIFS results with self-reported climbing grades. The test used a pulley system to add or remove weight from a climber’s body mass while performing a single-arm hang on a standard rung. Results showed excellent reliability across repeated tests and clear associations with both sport climbing and bouldering ability. Relative finger strength (load relative to body mass) was more predictive of climbing level than absolute strength.
Beta Angel note: It’s interesting that the test’s simplicity — using a rung, pulley, and weights found in most gyms — produced results comparable to expensive lab equipment. For coaches, this means finger strength testing doesn’t need to be high-tech to be useful, as long as body mass is factored in – something coaches also need to be careful of depending on the person.
Reference:
Torr, O., Randall, T., Knowles, R., Giles, D., & Atkins, S. (2020). The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climber’s isometric finger strength. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. Retrieved from
https://scispace.com/pdf/reliability-and-validity-of-a-method-for-the-assessment-of-1o3sao9spu.pdf
Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study
Authors: Mara Assmann, Gino Steinmetz, Arndt Friedrich Schilling, Dominik Saul | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study compared 50 recreational climbers with 50 non-climbing athletes to assess differences in grip strength and upper limb size. Climbers showed stronger grip in nearly all seven pinch types except the non-dominant fist, with moderate effect sizes. Only one arm measurement differed: climbers had slightly larger forearm circumference 10 cm below the elbow. Both groups had stronger dominant hands, but climbers showed less asymmetry, especially in uncommon grip types. The findings suggest climbing promotes bilateral grip strength and early adaptations in forearm structure. New climbers may benefit from training both hands and focusing on smaller pinch grips.
Reference: Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2020 Dec 27;18(1):129. doi: 10.3390/ijerph18010129
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7796164
Comparison of the effects of three hangboard strength and endurance programs on grip endurance in sport climbers
Authors: E. López-Rivera, J.J. González-Badillo | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: The researchers compared the effects of three different Hangboard training programs on grip endurance in advanced sport climbers (7c+/8a mean climbing ability). The three programs tested were MaxHangs (4 weeks of maximum added weight dead-hangs followed by 4 weeks of minimum edge dead-hangs), IntHangs (8 weeks of intermittent dead-hangs on minimum edge depth), and Max_IntHangs (4 weeks of maximum added weight dead-hangs followed by 4 weeks of IntHangs). Strength and endurance testing were performed at week 0, week 5, and week 9. The results showed a significant improvement in grip endurance for the IntHangs group after 4 weeks (25.2%) and after 8 weeks (45%), as well as the MaxHangs group after 8 weeks (34.1%). The Max_IntHangs group did not show a significant improvement in grip endurance. Main conclusion: IntHangs are very effective for improving grip endurance, but MaxHangs are also effective. Notes: Interesting that a strength-based program (MaxHangs) showed a 34% increase in grip endurance, but also interesting that it is 17% higher than what the researchers showed in a previous study. This previous study was performed with more advanced sport climbers (8a+/8b mean climbing ability). Contributing Beta-Angel (Connor Davis) note: lower level sport climbers may be better off using the MaxHangs protocol as they can significantly improve small-hold grip endurance while also improving maximum strength.
Reference: J Hum Kinet, 66, 183.
See Link.
Acute effects of kinesio taping on muscular strength and endurance parameters of the finger flexors in sport climbing: A randomized, controlled crossover trial.
Authors: Limmer M, Buck S, de Marées M, Roth R. | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: Research on kinesio taping (KT) for muscle strength and endurance is very mixed. Within this study, 20 recreational climbers (10 Male, 10 Female) performed hand grip strength, finger hang time, and lap climbing tests with and without kinesio taping (KT). A researcher would apply KT over the finger flexor muscles during the KT session (within 48 hours of the no-KT session). The researchers saw no effects of KT on climbing performance or decreasing muscle fatigue. There may be a possible connection between climbers’ ability and KT influence on fatigue, but more research is required.
Reference: Eur J Sport Sci. 2019 Jun 29:1-10. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2019.1633415. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31258054
Acute effects of kinesio taping on muscular strength and endurance parameters of the finger flexors in sport climbing: A randomized, controlled crossover trial.
Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing
Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing.
Author: ML Michailov, J. Baláš, SK Tanev, HS Andonov, J. Kodejška, L. Brown | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: Researchers studied the effect of fixing a climber’s arm during fingerboard tests for maximal strength by “fixing” the arm in a bend, and compared it to a straight-arm deadhang in 22 climbers. Both tests showed moderate to high association with climbing performance, but while fixing the arm is considered to provide more reliable results, not fixing the arm is recommended because it relates better to climbing. Beta-Angel note: we’re glad this study was finally done. It basically shows that there is a distinction in force levels between a fixed and non-fixed arm, suggesting climbers are able to “cheat” by emphasizing muscular power from other areas of the body (e.g. the arm or shoulder). However, it could be interesting to look into the variability of the extent to which some climbers can “cheat” vs. others. This knowledge could be used to more carefully customize training.
Reference: Res Q Exerc Sport. 2018 Jun;89(2):246-254.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29578838
Biomechanics > Finger Strength
Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers
Author: P. Bergua, J. Montero-Marin, AG Bruton, JA Casajus | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: Researchers tested 40 sport climbers using three tests: (1) the amount of time on a 14mm edge; (2) the smallest edge hung for 40 seconds; and (3) maximum weight for 5 seconds of hanging on the same edge as test #2. 69% of climbing performance was explained by the third test for elite (5.13c – 5.14c) climbers, which was double that of the best explanatory test for advanced (5.12a – 5.13b) climbers (the first test). The authors suggest endurance-oriented climbing tests may be more predictive at lower levels of climbing ability, while the ability to hang on smaller edges with greater force becomes even more predictive at higher levels. Beta-Angel note: in an interesting pilot study, the authors found they could “predict” the minimum edge size for test #2 by looking at scores for test #1: if the climbers hung for 40 seconds, then a 14mm edge was used for test 2, and for every 4 seconds less or more than 40, they would either reduce or increase the size of the hold by 1mm from 14mm (e.g. 28 seconds is 17mm, or 52 seconds is 11mm). Beta-Angel note2: this paper attempts to build from work done by Bourne et al (2011).
Reference: International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport 18(3), June 2018
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/325780302_Hanging_ability_in_climbing_an_approach_by_finger_hangs_on_adjusted_depth_edges_in_advanced_and_elite_sport_climbers
Biomechanics > Finger Strength
An Innovative Hangboard Design to Improve Finger Strength in Rock Climbers
Authors: ML Anderson, ML Anderson, A. Sanders | Year: 2016
Summary/Results: The creators of the Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) developed a new dual-mounted hangboard (RP Forge) and collected performance data in the form of an online survey. The authors describe the introduction of three novel features, including the creation through a CAD/CAM engineering process to improve the design process, drafted pockets to improve ergonomics, and novel grip designs in order to reduce injury and create a more challenging hangboard. Climbers who participated in the survey reported that they could push themselves harder compared to other training methods (91%) and other hangboards (86%), and had fewer overuse injuries compared to other training methods (68%) and other hangboards (70%).
Reference: Procedia Engineering, Vol 147, 2016 P. 269-274
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1877705816307238
Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers
AUTHORS: Sveen, J., Stone, K., Fryer, S. | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Sveen et al. measured forearm volume and maximum finger force in 10 controls, 9 sport climbers, and 9 boulderers. Boulderers had higher maximum finger force than sport climbers, who had higher force than controls, however there was no significant difference in volume – suggesting that the development of finger force may be a result of neural adaptation (building of strength through increased electrical activity in the muscles, motor unit synchronicity and firing rates, and decrease of agonist-antagonist co-activation), rather than hypertrophy (building of strength through increases in muscle).
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress, Proceedings 2016
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
A novel tool and training methodology for improving finger strength in rock climbers
AUTHORS: Michael Anderson and Mark Anderson | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research tested a new finger strength training tool, the Rock Prodigy Training Center, and its protocol, the Rock Prodigy Method using an online survey. After four weeks of training, finger strength improved by an average of 21.5%, and overall climbing improved by 2.5 letter grades on the YDS. Other data include ability to train without fear of injury compared to other methods (85%) and other hangboards (64%). Beta-Angel note: See Finger Strength Improvements with the Rock Prodigy Training Center Hangboard
Reference: Procedia Engineering, 112, 491-496.
http://ac.els-cdn.com/S1877705815014861/1-s2.0-S1877705815014861-main.pdf?_tid=e80080bc-4ab1-11e6-980d-00000aacb361&acdnat=1468604044_cf767c5d509238f3ba58d379da2d0ce1
Fingerboard in competitive bouldering: training effects on grip strength and endurance
AUTHORS: Jerry P.J. Medernach, Heinz Kleinöder and Helmut H.H. Lötzerich | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research studied the effect of a 4 week program using either a finger boarding or bouldering routine on 23 advanced male boulderers. They found that the finger boarding program significantly improved grip strength and endurance for competitive boulderers.
REFERENCE: Fingerboard in Competitive Bouldering. Journal Of Strength And Conditioning Research, 29(8), 2286-2295.
http://journals.lww.com/nsca-jscr/Abstract/publishahead/Fingerboard_in_competitive_bouldering___Training.97012.aspx
Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers
AUTHORS: Jiří Baláš, Jonáš MrskoČ, Michaela PanáČková and Nick Draper | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers studied finger strength of various grip positions , as well as the reliability of that grip position throughout a climbing session. “Open grip” and “Closed crimp” strength ratings were found to be most closely related to self-reported climbing ability, compared to two pocket grip styles employing just two fingers.
REFERENCE: Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers. (2016) Sports Technology.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082
Inventing the hand grip strength tester for climbing and determining it`s correlation coefficient with men sport climbers ability
AUTHORS: Alireza Balaghi , Amir Sarshin and Mohialdin Bahari | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: main goal of study was inventing a new instrument for testing hand grip strength among sport climbers and determining correlation coefficient with men sport climber’s ability. Conclusion showed high correlation between climbing ability and amount of hand grip strength.
REFERENCE: European Journal of Experimental Biology, 2014, 4(2):333-336
http://www.imedpub.com/articles/inventing-the-hand-grip-strength-tester-for-climbing-and-determining-itscorrelation-coefficient-with-men-sport-climbers-ability.pdf
The effect of arm and grip position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
AUTHORS: J. Baláš, J. Kodejška, J. Mrskoč, M. Panáčková, N. Draper | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers looked at the effect of different elbow and shoulder positions on grip strength. Researchers found that the most suitable positions to assess finger strength are with straight arms or slightly bent arms above the head while handgrip squeeze tests were not recommended to assess finger strength in climbers. Beta-Angel note: Phew. For a second there I was worried I would have to start doing curls with my hangboard.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Relationship between climbing specific grip techniques, hold depth and maximal finger force capacity of rock climbers
AUTHORS: A. M. Amca, S. Aritan, L. Vigouroux | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: This study sought to quantify maximal finger force with three different grip types (slope or open hand, half crimp, and full crimp) on four different hold depths (1 – 4cm) while pulling on the holds both (a) vertically and (b) away from the wall. Roughly, it appears as if more force can be applied to smaller holds using the full crimp grip, and more force can be applied to larger holds using the slope or open-hand grip. This was true while pulling down and while pulling away from the wall. Beta-Angel note: a discussion with the author noted the following finding: “While in the vertical direction, force between the half crimp and slope grip are similar, you can exert more force in more directions using the half crimp rather than the slope grip.” A possible explanation: “with the slope grip, the subjects cannot extend the wrist without slipping of the holds while with the crimp grip, it was possible to extend the wrist and exert more anteroposterior (front-to-back) forces.” This finding may have significant implication for the requirements associated with technical positioning.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Computer connected force platform performance assessment and training tool for rock climbing
AUTHORS: F. Bourassa-Moreau, B. Bourassa-Moreau2 E. Bourassa-Moreau | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers analyzed the use of a Wii balance board and performance assessment software on an endurance-specific hangboard training protocol. The researchers found that the balance board is both compatible with performance assessment software and, while the tool consistently underestimates measured effort, improves the control and prevision of training intensity.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Isometric Strength and Relative Isometric Endurance
AUTHORS: Carlson and McCraw | Year: Published online 2013
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Thirty six male college students were used to test the relationship between maximum strength of the forearm and endurance at 30, 45, 60 and 75 percent of maximum. Researchers found that the weaker subjects performed better at lighter loads than the stronger subjects.
REFERENCE: Research quarterly for exercise and sport, Volume 42, 1971 (2013?)
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10671188.1971.10615067
The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers
AUTHORS: E. Lopez-Rivera, J.J. Gonzalez-Badillo | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured two climbing hangboard protocols (training the use of maximum added weight first, and minimum edge depth second, vs. the opposite) in 9 experienced rock climbers broken into two groups. Results suggest that training maximum-added weight first, and minimum edge-depth second is superior to the opposite protocol.
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012, issue 3-4: Climbing Technology
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.716061
Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing
AUTHORS: A. M. Amca, S. Aritan, L. Vigouroux, E. Berton | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS:Beta-Angel note: Possible duplicate is under review. Anyone with access?
REFERENCE: J Sports Sci. 2012;30(7):669-77
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22339482
Finger load distribution in different types of climbing grips
AUTHORS: Konstantin Fuss, F., Niegl, G. | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Fuss and Niegel analyzed the differences in (a) finger forces, and (b) friction in three grip types (closed crimp, open crimp, and open hand). The researchers found that the primary finger in the closed crimp was the index finger (followed in decreasing fashion by each subsequent finger in turn), and the middle finger in the open crimp and open hand positions (followed equally by index and middle). They also found that friction in the index finger in closed and open crimps are similar, and greater compared to the open handgrip.
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012, issue 3-4.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.755540
Measuring Lifting Forces in Rock Climbing: Effect of Hold Size and Fingertip Structure
Author: R. Bourne, M. Halaki, B. Vanwanseele, J. Clarke | Year: 2011
Summary/Results: Authors looked at the relationship between the size of sandstone edges and force in 11 males and 4 females climbing between 11a and 14a. The authors found greater amounts of pulp were associated with higher forces on the smallest edge depth, and a positive association between participant force on the smallest edge and height/reach. Additionally, the researchers did not find an association between climber’s ability to hold shallow (2.8 and 4.3mm) and deep holds (5,8, 7.3, and 12.5mm), and climbing performance was associated the strongest with force on the two middle edges (5.8 and 7.3mm) than on the other edges (2.8, 4.3 and 12.5mm). Beta-Angel note: “the author’s suggestion for the application of greater “pulp” to small holds has to do with deformity of the skin creating greater contact area. Soft tissue compressive force” was calculated by dividing maximum lifting force on the 12.5mm by contact area. Finally, the authors are confused by a height / small-edge force association. We are too.
Reference: Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 2011, 27, 40-46
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/30f1/765f42ef3d2838331c98a6c7808a49277794.pdf
Maximal resultant four fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand in different sport climbing finger grips
AUTHORS: F. Quaine, L. Vigouroux | Year: 2004
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The authors set out to determine whether the “slope” grip or “crimp” grip resulted in different levels of fatigue during sport climbing by testing six elite sport climbers for 80% of their maximum contraction force over 20 repeated 5-second contractions and rests. The authors found that in terms of muscular fatigue, neither grip type provides any more benefit than the other.
Reference: Int J Sports Med. 2004 Nov;25(8):634-7.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15532009
Climbing-specific finger endurance: a comparative study of intermediate rock climbers, rowers and aerobically trained individuals
AUTHORS: Grant S1, Shields C, Fitzpatrick V, Loh WM, Whitaker A, Watt I, Kay JW. | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers compared 9 climbers with 9 rowers and 9 aerobically leg trained athletes using Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) on a climbing-specific finger apparatus, and endurance isometric exercise using 40% MCV under three conditions: (1) sustained; (2) 6 seconds on, 4 seconds off, and (3) 18 seconds on, 12 seconds rest. Blood pressure and blood lactate (a byproduct of the body’s use of simple sugars formed in association with muscular fatigue, often associated with being “pumped”) concentration were measured. While MVC for climbers was significantly greater, there were no significant differences for any of the other tests with the exception of a significantly higher blood lactate concentration for climbers when compared against rowers. Researchers suggest that training and participation in rock climbing may result in some specific adaptations.
REFERENCE: J Sports Sci. 2003 Aug;21(8):621-30.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12875313
Finger strength does not decrease with rock climbing to the point of failure
AUTHORS: PB Watts, RL Jensen, DM Moss, JA Wagensomer | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers attempted to determine whether specific finger configuration is the causative factor in climbing failure through changes in maximum finger force and engagement of forearm musculature. The study did not find that the primary cause of failure is a decrease in the ability to produce concentric finger force (as measured by pre- and post-climb finger force and maximum handgrip strength).
REFERENCE: Medicine & Science in Sports & Science, Volume 35(5) Supplement 1, May 2003 P 264.
Referenced at: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/05/review-of-strength-and-endurance-in.html
A reliable and valid strength measurement of the crimp grip in rock climbing
AUTHOR: D.M. Binney | Year: 2002
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study used a specialized dynamometer, or hand-grip measurement tool, to test finger strength in order to present a standard measure of the climbing crimp grip. The researchers suggested that their dynamometer is a reliable test for climbers.
REFERENCE: Binney DM. 2nd Int Conf Sci Tech Climbing & Mountaineering, April 2002.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/competitions/high_perfomance_archive/dynamometer.pdf
Grip Strength and Endurance in Rock Climbers
AUTHORS: A Cutis and S R Bollen | Year: 1993
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Pinch and whole hand grip strength and endurance was compared between competition climbers and non-climbers of the same age, sex, and physique. While climbers had more finger strength, researchers found no evidence that strength in hands alone correlates with success other than the suggestion that pinch grip strength increased with the length of climbing experience.
REFERENCE: Cutis, Bollen, Proceedings of the institution of mechanical engineers, Vol 207, issue 2, (1993)
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1243/PIME_PROC_1993_207_275_02
Effect of habitual knuckle cracking on hand function
AUTHOR: Castelanos, Axelrod | Year: 1990
SUMMARY/RESULTS: 300 patients screened for knuckle cracking along with a number of other variables. No correlation identified with arthritus, however, correlation identifies with lower grip strength, likelihood of family members doing it, smoking, drinking alcohol, and biting nails.
REFERENCE: Annals of the Rheumatic Diseases 1990; 49: 308-309
http://ard.bmj.com/content/49/5/308.full.pdf+html
Effect of the finger position on maximal fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand during a simulated rock climbing gripping exercise
AUTHORS: F. Quaine, L. Vigouroux, N. Termoz, P. Portero | Year: unknown
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured the force of three maximal isometric finger flexion contractions in two different grip styles: crimp grip and slope grip. Quaine et al. found that the force applied as a result of the different grip styles was not significant suggesting that the use of the different grip types matters not on force but on the characteristics of the hold (size and shape). They also found that repetitive contractions decrease fingertip force and that the finger position does not affect fatigue rate.
Reference: Unknown.
https://isbweb.org/images/conf/2003/shortAbstracts/QUAINE_161-166_SPO_E.pdf
Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing
Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing.
Author: ML Michailov, J. Baláš, SK Tanev, HS Andonov, J. Kodejška, L. Brown | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: Researchers studied the effect of fixing a climber’s arm during fingerboard tests for maximal strength by “fixing” the arm in a bend, and compared it to a straight-arm deadhang in 22 climbers. Both tests showed moderate to high association with climbing performance, but while fixing the arm is considered to provide more reliable results, not fixing the arm is recommended because it relates better to climbing. Beta-Angel note: we’re glad this study was finally done. It basically shows that there is a distinction in force levels between a fixed and non-fixed arm, suggesting climbers are able to “cheat” by emphasizing muscular power from other areas of the body (e.g. the arm or shoulder). However, it could be interesting to look into the variability of the extent to which some climbers can “cheat” vs. others. This knowledge could be used to more carefully customize training.
Reference: Res Q Exerc Sport. 2018 Jun;89(2):246-254.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29578838
Biomechanics > Finger Strength
Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers
Author: P. Bergua, J. Montero-Marin, AG Bruton, JA Casajus | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: Researchers tested 40 sport climbers using three tests: (1) the amount of time on a 14mm edge; (2) the smallest edge hung for 40 seconds; and (3) maximum weight for 5 seconds of hanging on the same edge as test #2. 69% of climbing performance was explained by the third test for elite (5.13c – 5.14c) climbers, which was double that of the best explanatory test for advanced (5.12a – 5.13b) climbers (the first test). The authors suggest endurance-oriented climbing tests may be more predictive at lower levels of climbing ability, while the ability to hang on smaller edges with greater force becomes even more predictive at higher levels. Beta-Angel note: in an interesting pilot study, the authors found they could “predict” the minimum edge size for test #2 by looking at scores for test #1: if the climbers hung for 40 seconds, then a 14mm edge was used for test 2, and for every 4 seconds less or more than 40, they would either reduce or increase the size of the hold by 1mm from 14mm (e.g. 28 seconds is 17mm, or 52 seconds is 11mm). Beta-Angel note2: this paper attempts to build from work done by Bourne et al (2011).
Reference: International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport 18(3), June 2018
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/325780302_Hanging_ability_in_climbing_an_approach_by_finger_hangs_on_adjusted_depth_edges_in_advanced_and_elite_sport_climbers
Biomechanics > Finger Strength
An Innovative Hangboard Design to Improve Finger Strength in Rock Climbers
Authors: ML Anderson, ML Anderson, A. Sanders | Year: 2016
Summary/Results: The creators of the Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) developed a new dual-mounted hangboard (RP Forge) and collected performance data in the form of an online survey. The authors describe the introduction of three novel features, including the creation through a CAD/CAM engineering process to improve the design process, drafted pockets to improve ergonomics, and novel grip designs in order to reduce injury and create a more challenging hangboard. Climbers who participated in the survey reported that they could push themselves harder compared to other training methods (91%) and other hangboards (86%), and had fewer overuse injuries compared to other training methods (68%) and other hangboards (70%).
Reference: Procedia Engineering, Vol 147, 2016 P. 269-274
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1877705816307238
Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers
AUTHORS: Sveen, J., Stone, K., Fryer, S. | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Sveen et al. measured forearm volume and maximum finger force in 10 controls, 9 sport climbers, and 9 boulderers. Boulderers had higher maximum finger force than sport climbers, who had higher force than controls, however there was no significant difference in volume – suggesting that the development of finger force may be a result of neural adaptation (building of strength through increased electrical activity in the muscles, motor unit synchronicity and firing rates, and decrease of agonist-antagonist co-activation), rather than hypertrophy (building of strength through increases in muscle).
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress, Proceedings 2016
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
A novel tool and training methodology for improving finger strength in rock climbers
AUTHORS: Michael Anderson and Mark Anderson | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research tested a new finger strength training tool, the Rock Prodigy Training Center, and its protocol, the Rock Prodigy Method using an online survey. After four weeks of training, finger strength improved by an average of 21.5%, and overall climbing improved by 2.5 letter grades on the YDS. Other data include ability to train without fear of injury compared to other methods (85%) and other hangboards (64%). Beta-Angel note: See Finger Strength Improvements with the Rock Prodigy Training Center Hangboard
Reference: Procedia Engineering, 112, 491-496.
http://ac.els-cdn.com/S1877705815014861/1-s2.0-S1877705815014861-main.pdf?_tid=e80080bc-4ab1-11e6-980d-00000aacb361&acdnat=1468604044_cf767c5d509238f3ba58d379da2d0ce1
Fingerboard in competitive bouldering: training effects on grip strength and endurance
AUTHORS: Jerry P.J. Medernach, Heinz Kleinöder and Helmut H.H. Lötzerich | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research studied the effect of a 4 week program using either a finger boarding or bouldering routine on 23 advanced male boulderers. They found that the finger boarding program significantly improved grip strength and endurance for competitive boulderers.
REFERENCE: Fingerboard in Competitive Bouldering. Journal Of Strength And Conditioning Research, 29(8), 2286-2295.
http://journals.lww.com/nsca-jscr/Abstract/publishahead/Fingerboard_in_competitive_bouldering___Training.97012.aspx
Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers
AUTHORS: Jiří Baláš, Jonáš MrskoČ, Michaela PanáČková and Nick Draper | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers studied finger strength of various grip positions , as well as the reliability of that grip position throughout a climbing session. “Open grip” and “Closed crimp” strength ratings were found to be most closely related to self-reported climbing ability, compared to two pocket grip styles employing just two fingers.
REFERENCE: Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers. (2016) Sports Technology.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082
Inventing the hand grip strength tester for climbing and determining it`s correlation coefficient with men sport climbers ability
AUTHORS: Alireza Balaghi , Amir Sarshin and Mohialdin Bahari | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: main goal of study was inventing a new instrument for testing hand grip strength among sport climbers and determining correlation coefficient with men sport climber’s ability. Conclusion showed high correlation between climbing ability and amount of hand grip strength.
REFERENCE: European Journal of Experimental Biology, 2014, 4(2):333-336
http://www.imedpub.com/articles/inventing-the-hand-grip-strength-tester-for-climbing-and-determining-itscorrelation-coefficient-with-men-sport-climbers-ability.pdf
The effect of arm and grip position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
AUTHORS: J. Baláš, J. Kodejška, J. Mrskoč, M. Panáčková, N. Draper | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers looked at the effect of different elbow and shoulder positions on grip strength. Researchers found that the most suitable positions to assess finger strength are with straight arms or slightly bent arms above the head while handgrip squeeze tests were not recommended to assess finger strength in climbers. Beta-Angel note: Phew. For a second there I was worried I would have to start doing curls with my hangboard.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Relationship between climbing specific grip techniques, hold depth and maximal finger force capacity of rock climbers
AUTHORS: A. M. Amca, S. Aritan, L. Vigouroux | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: This study sought to quantify maximal finger force with three different grip types (slope or open hand, half crimp, and full crimp) on four different hold depths (1 – 4cm) while pulling on the holds both (a) vertically and (b) away from the wall. Roughly, it appears as if more force can be applied to smaller holds using the full crimp grip, and more force can be applied to larger holds using the slope or open-hand grip. This was true while pulling down and while pulling away from the wall. Beta-Angel note: a discussion with the author noted the following finding: “While in the vertical direction, force between the half crimp and slope grip are similar, you can exert more force in more directions using the half crimp rather than the slope grip.” A possible explanation: “with the slope grip, the subjects cannot extend the wrist without slipping of the holds while with the crimp grip, it was possible to extend the wrist and exert more anteroposterior (front-to-back) forces.” This finding may have significant implication for the requirements associated with technical positioning.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Computer connected force platform performance assessment and training tool for rock climbing
AUTHORS: F. Bourassa-Moreau, B. Bourassa-Moreau2 E. Bourassa-Moreau | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers analyzed the use of a Wii balance board and performance assessment software on an endurance-specific hangboard training protocol. The researchers found that the balance board is both compatible with performance assessment software and, while the tool consistently underestimates measured effort, improves the control and prevision of training intensity.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Isometric Strength and Relative Isometric Endurance
AUTHORS: Carlson and McCraw | Year: Published online 2013
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Thirty six male college students were used to test the relationship between maximum strength of the forearm and endurance at 30, 45, 60 and 75 percent of maximum. Researchers found that the weaker subjects performed better at lighter loads than the stronger subjects.
REFERENCE: Research quarterly for exercise and sport, Volume 42, 1971 (2013?)
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10671188.1971.10615067
The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers
AUTHORS: E. Lopez-Rivera, J.J. Gonzalez-Badillo | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured two climbing hangboard protocols (training the use of maximum added weight first, and minimum edge depth second, vs. the opposite) in 9 experienced rock climbers broken into two groups. Results suggest that training maximum-added weight first, and minimum edge-depth second is superior to the opposite protocol.
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012, issue 3-4: Climbing Technology
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.716061
Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing
AUTHORS: A. M. Amca, S. Aritan, L. Vigouroux, E. Berton | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS:Beta-Angel note: Possible duplicate is under review. Anyone with access?
REFERENCE: J Sports Sci. 2012;30(7):669-77
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22339482
Finger load distribution in different types of climbing grips
AUTHORS: Konstantin Fuss, F., Niegl, G. | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Fuss and Niegel analyzed the differences in (a) finger forces, and (b) friction in three grip types (closed crimp, open crimp, and open hand). The researchers found that the primary finger in the closed crimp was the index finger (followed in decreasing fashion by each subsequent finger in turn), and the middle finger in the open crimp and open hand positions (followed equally by index and middle). They also found that friction in the index finger in closed and open crimps are similar, and greater compared to the open handgrip.
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012, issue 3-4.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.755540
Measuring Lifting Forces in Rock Climbing: Effect of Hold Size and Fingertip Structure
Author: R. Bourne, M. Halaki, B. Vanwanseele, J. Clarke | Year: 2011
Summary/Results: Authors looked at the relationship between the size of sandstone edges and force in 11 males and 4 females climbing between 11a and 14a. The authors found greater amounts of pulp were associated with higher forces on the smallest edge depth, and a positive association between participant force on the smallest edge and height/reach. Additionally, the researchers did not find an association between climber’s ability to hold shallow (2.8 and 4.3mm) and deep holds (5,8, 7.3, and 12.5mm), and climbing performance was associated the strongest with force on the two middle edges (5.8 and 7.3mm) than on the other edges (2.8, 4.3 and 12.5mm). Beta-Angel note: “the author’s suggestion for the application of greater “pulp” to small holds has to do with deformity of the skin creating greater contact area. Soft tissue compressive force” was calculated by dividing maximum lifting force on the 12.5mm by contact area. Finally, the authors are confused by a height / small-edge force association. We are too.
Reference: Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 2011, 27, 40-46
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/30f1/765f42ef3d2838331c98a6c7808a49277794.pdf
Maximal resultant four fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand in different sport climbing finger grips
AUTHORS: F. Quaine, L. Vigouroux | Year: 2004
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The authors set out to determine whether the “slope” grip or “crimp” grip resulted in different levels of fatigue during sport climbing by testing six elite sport climbers for 80% of their maximum contraction force over 20 repeated 5-second contractions and rests. The authors found that in terms of muscular fatigue, neither grip type provides any more benefit than the other.
Reference: Int J Sports Med. 2004 Nov;25(8):634-7.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15532009
Climbing-specific finger endurance: a comparative study of intermediate rock climbers, rowers and aerobically trained individuals
AUTHORS: Grant S1, Shields C, Fitzpatrick V, Loh WM, Whitaker A, Watt I, Kay JW. | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers compared 9 climbers with 9 rowers and 9 aerobically leg trained athletes using Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) on a climbing-specific finger apparatus, and endurance isometric exercise using 40% MCV under three conditions: (1) sustained; (2) 6 seconds on, 4 seconds off, and (3) 18 seconds on, 12 seconds rest. Blood pressure and blood lactate (a byproduct of the body’s use of simple sugars formed in association with muscular fatigue, often associated with being “pumped”) concentration were measured. While MVC for climbers was significantly greater, there were no significant differences for any of the other tests with the exception of a significantly higher blood lactate concentration for climbers when compared against rowers. Researchers suggest that training and participation in rock climbing may result in some specific adaptations.
REFERENCE: J Sports Sci. 2003 Aug;21(8):621-30.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12875313
Finger strength does not decrease with rock climbing to the point of failure
AUTHORS: PB Watts, RL Jensen, DM Moss, JA Wagensomer | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers attempted to determine whether specific finger configuration is the causative factor in climbing failure through changes in maximum finger force and engagement of forearm musculature. The study did not find that the primary cause of failure is a decrease in the ability to produce concentric finger force (as measured by pre- and post-climb finger force and maximum handgrip strength).
REFERENCE: Medicine & Science in Sports & Science, Volume 35(5) Supplement 1, May 2003 P 264.
Referenced at: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/05/review-of-strength-and-endurance-in.html
A reliable and valid strength measurement of the crimp grip in rock climbing
AUTHOR: D.M. Binney | Year: 2002
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study used a specialized dynamometer, or hand-grip measurement tool, to test finger strength in order to present a standard measure of the climbing crimp grip. The researchers suggested that their dynamometer is a reliable test for climbers.
REFERENCE: Binney DM. 2nd Int Conf Sci Tech Climbing & Mountaineering, April 2002.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/competitions/high_perfomance_archive/dynamometer.pdf
Grip Strength and Endurance in Rock Climbers
AUTHORS: A Cutis and S R Bollen | Year: 1993
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Pinch and whole hand grip strength and endurance was compared between competition climbers and non-climbers of the same age, sex, and physique. While climbers had more finger strength, researchers found no evidence that strength in hands alone correlates with success other than the suggestion that pinch grip strength increased with the length of climbing experience.
REFERENCE: Cutis, Bollen, Proceedings of the institution of mechanical engineers, Vol 207, issue 2, (1993)
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1243/PIME_PROC_1993_207_275_02
Effect of habitual knuckle cracking on hand function
AUTHOR: Castelanos, Axelrod | Year: 1990
SUMMARY/RESULTS: 300 patients screened for knuckle cracking along with a number of other variables. No correlation identified with arthritus, however, correlation identifies with lower grip strength, likelihood of family members doing it, smoking, drinking alcohol, and biting nails.
REFERENCE: Annals of the Rheumatic Diseases 1990; 49: 308-309
http://ard.bmj.com/content/49/5/308.full.pdf+html
Effect of the finger position on maximal fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand during a simulated rock climbing gripping exercise
AUTHORS: F. Quaine, L. Vigouroux, N. Termoz, P. Portero | Year: unknown
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured the force of three maximal isometric finger flexion contractions in two different grip styles: crimp grip and slope grip. Quaine et al. found that the force applied as a result of the different grip styles was not significant suggesting that the use of the different grip types matters not on force but on the characteristics of the hold (size and shape). They also found that repetitive contractions decrease fingertip force and that the finger position does not affect fatigue rate.
Reference: Unknown.
https://isbweb.org/images/conf/2003/shortAbstracts/QUAINE_161-166_SPO_E.pdf
Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing
Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing.
Author: ML Michailov, J. Baláš, SK Tanev, HS Andonov, J. Kodejška, L. Brown | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: Researchers studied the effect of fixing a climber’s arm during fingerboard tests for maximal strength by “fixing” the arm in a bend, and compared it to a straight-arm deadhang in 22 climbers. Both tests showed moderate to high association with climbing performance, but while fixing the arm is considered to provide more reliable results, not fixing the arm is recommended because it relates better to climbing. Beta-Angel note: we’re glad this study was finally done. It basically shows that there is a distinction in force levels between a fixed and non-fixed arm, suggesting climbers are able to “cheat” by emphasizing muscular power from other areas of the body (e.g. the arm or shoulder). However, it could be interesting to look into the variability of the extent to which some climbers can “cheat” vs. others. This knowledge could be used to more carefully customize training.
Reference: Res Q Exerc Sport. 2018 Jun;89(2):246-254.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29578838
Biomechanics > Finger Strength
Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers
Author: P. Bergua, J. Montero-Marin, AG Bruton, JA Casajus | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: Researchers tested 40 sport climbers using three tests: (1) the amount of time on a 14mm edge; (2) the smallest edge hung for 40 seconds; and (3) maximum weight for 5 seconds of hanging on the same edge as test #2. 69% of climbing performance was explained by the third test for elite (5.13c – 5.14c) climbers, which was double that of the best explanatory test for advanced (5.12a – 5.13b) climbers (the first test). The authors suggest endurance-oriented climbing tests may be more predictive at lower levels of climbing ability, while the ability to hang on smaller edges with greater force becomes even more predictive at higher levels. Beta-Angel note: in an interesting pilot study, the authors found they could “predict” the minimum edge size for test #2 by looking at scores for test #1: if the climbers hung for 40 seconds, then a 14mm edge was used for test 2, and for every 4 seconds less or more than 40, they would either reduce or increase the size of the hold by 1mm from 14mm (e.g. 28 seconds is 17mm, or 52 seconds is 11mm). Beta-Angel note2: this paper attempts to build from work done by Bourne et al (2011).
Reference: International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport 18(3), June 2018
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/325780302_Hanging_ability_in_climbing_an_approach_by_finger_hangs_on_adjusted_depth_edges_in_advanced_and_elite_sport_climbers
Biomechanics > Finger Strength
An Innovative Hangboard Design to Improve Finger Strength in Rock Climbers
Authors: ML Anderson, ML Anderson, A. Sanders | Year: 2016
Summary/Results: The creators of the Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) developed a new dual-mounted hangboard (RP Forge) and collected performance data in the form of an online survey. The authors describe the introduction of three novel features, including the creation through a CAD/CAM engineering process to improve the design process, drafted pockets to improve ergonomics, and novel grip designs in order to reduce injury and create a more challenging hangboard. Climbers who participated in the survey reported that they could push themselves harder compared to other training methods (91%) and other hangboards (86%), and had fewer overuse injuries compared to other training methods (68%) and other hangboards (70%).
Reference: Procedia Engineering, Vol 147, 2016 P. 269-274
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1877705816307238
Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers
AUTHORS: Sveen, J., Stone, K., Fryer, S. | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Sveen et al. measured forearm volume and maximum finger force in 10 controls, 9 sport climbers, and 9 boulderers. Boulderers had higher maximum finger force than sport climbers, who had higher force than controls, however there was no significant difference in volume – suggesting that the development of finger force may be a result of neural adaptation (building of strength through increased electrical activity in the muscles, motor unit synchronicity and firing rates, and decrease of agonist-antagonist co-activation), rather than hypertrophy (building of strength through increases in muscle).
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress, Proceedings 2016
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
A novel tool and training methodology for improving finger strength in rock climbers
AUTHORS: Michael Anderson and Mark Anderson | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research tested a new finger strength training tool, the Rock Prodigy Training Center, and its protocol, the Rock Prodigy Method using an online survey. After four weeks of training, finger strength improved by an average of 21.5%, and overall climbing improved by 2.5 letter grades on the YDS. Other data include ability to train without fear of injury compared to other methods (85%) and other hangboards (64%). Beta-Angel note: See Finger Strength Improvements with the Rock Prodigy Training Center Hangboard
Reference: Procedia Engineering, 112, 491-496.
http://ac.els-cdn.com/S1877705815014861/1-s2.0-S1877705815014861-main.pdf?_tid=e80080bc-4ab1-11e6-980d-00000aacb361&acdnat=1468604044_cf767c5d509238f3ba58d379da2d0ce1
Fingerboard in competitive bouldering: training effects on grip strength and endurance
AUTHORS: Jerry P.J. Medernach, Heinz Kleinöder and Helmut H.H. Lötzerich | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Research studied the effect of a 4 week program using either a finger boarding or bouldering routine on 23 advanced male boulderers. They found that the finger boarding program significantly improved grip strength and endurance for competitive boulderers.
REFERENCE: Fingerboard in Competitive Bouldering. Journal Of Strength And Conditioning Research, 29(8), 2286-2295.
http://journals.lww.com/nsca-jscr/Abstract/publishahead/Fingerboard_in_competitive_bouldering___Training.97012.aspx
Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers
AUTHORS: Jiří Baláš, Jonáš MrskoČ, Michaela PanáČková and Nick Draper | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers studied finger strength of various grip positions , as well as the reliability of that grip position throughout a climbing session. “Open grip” and “Closed crimp” strength ratings were found to be most closely related to self-reported climbing ability, compared to two pocket grip styles employing just two fingers.
REFERENCE: Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers. (2016) Sports Technology.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082
Inventing the hand grip strength tester for climbing and determining it`s correlation coefficient with men sport climbers ability
AUTHORS: Alireza Balaghi , Amir Sarshin and Mohialdin Bahari | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: main goal of study was inventing a new instrument for testing hand grip strength among sport climbers and determining correlation coefficient with men sport climber’s ability. Conclusion showed high correlation between climbing ability and amount of hand grip strength.
REFERENCE: European Journal of Experimental Biology, 2014, 4(2):333-336
http://www.imedpub.com/articles/inventing-the-hand-grip-strength-tester-for-climbing-and-determining-itscorrelation-coefficient-with-men-sport-climbers-ability.pdf
The effect of arm and grip position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
AUTHORS: J. Baláš, J. Kodejška, J. Mrskoč, M. Panáčková, N. Draper | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers looked at the effect of different elbow and shoulder positions on grip strength. Researchers found that the most suitable positions to assess finger strength are with straight arms or slightly bent arms above the head while handgrip squeeze tests were not recommended to assess finger strength in climbers. Beta-Angel note: Phew. For a second there I was worried I would have to start doing curls with my hangboard.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Relationship between climbing specific grip techniques, hold depth and maximal finger force capacity of rock climbers
AUTHORS: A. M. Amca, S. Aritan, L. Vigouroux | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: This study sought to quantify maximal finger force with three different grip types (slope or open hand, half crimp, and full crimp) on four different hold depths (1 – 4cm) while pulling on the holds both (a) vertically and (b) away from the wall. Roughly, it appears as if more force can be applied to smaller holds using the full crimp grip, and more force can be applied to larger holds using the slope or open-hand grip. This was true while pulling down and while pulling away from the wall. Beta-Angel note: a discussion with the author noted the following finding: “While in the vertical direction, force between the half crimp and slope grip are similar, you can exert more force in more directions using the half crimp rather than the slope grip.” A possible explanation: “with the slope grip, the subjects cannot extend the wrist without slipping of the holds while with the crimp grip, it was possible to extend the wrist and exert more anteroposterior (front-to-back) forces.” This finding may have significant implication for the requirements associated with technical positioning.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Computer connected force platform performance assessment and training tool for rock climbing
AUTHORS: F. Bourassa-Moreau, B. Bourassa-Moreau2 E. Bourassa-Moreau | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers analyzed the use of a Wii balance board and performance assessment software on an endurance-specific hangboard training protocol. The researchers found that the balance board is both compatible with performance assessment software and, while the tool consistently underestimates measured effort, improves the control and prevision of training intensity.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Conference, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Isometric Strength and Relative Isometric Endurance
AUTHORS: Carlson and McCraw | Year: Published online 2013
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Thirty six male college students were used to test the relationship between maximum strength of the forearm and endurance at 30, 45, 60 and 75 percent of maximum. Researchers found that the weaker subjects performed better at lighter loads than the stronger subjects.
REFERENCE: Research quarterly for exercise and sport, Volume 42, 1971 (2013?)
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10671188.1971.10615067
The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers
AUTHORS: E. Lopez-Rivera, J.J. Gonzalez-Badillo | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured two climbing hangboard protocols (training the use of maximum added weight first, and minimum edge depth second, vs. the opposite) in 9 experienced rock climbers broken into two groups. Results suggest that training maximum-added weight first, and minimum edge-depth second is superior to the opposite protocol.
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012, issue 3-4: Climbing Technology
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.716061
Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing
AUTHORS: A. M. Amca, S. Aritan, L. Vigouroux, E. Berton | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS:Beta-Angel note: Possible duplicate is under review. Anyone with access?
REFERENCE: J Sports Sci. 2012;30(7):669-77
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22339482
Finger load distribution in different types of climbing grips
AUTHORS: Konstantin Fuss, F., Niegl, G. | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Fuss and Niegel analyzed the differences in (a) finger forces, and (b) friction in three grip types (closed crimp, open crimp, and open hand). The researchers found that the primary finger in the closed crimp was the index finger (followed in decreasing fashion by each subsequent finger in turn), and the middle finger in the open crimp and open hand positions (followed equally by index and middle). They also found that friction in the index finger in closed and open crimps are similar, and greater compared to the open handgrip.
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Volume 5, 2012, issue 3-4.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/19346182.2012.755540
Measuring Lifting Forces in Rock Climbing: Effect of Hold Size and Fingertip Structure
Author: R. Bourne, M. Halaki, B. Vanwanseele, J. Clarke | Year: 2011
Summary/Results: Authors looked at the relationship between the size of sandstone edges and force in 11 males and 4 females climbing between 11a and 14a. The authors found greater amounts of pulp were associated with higher forces on the smallest edge depth, and a positive association between participant force on the smallest edge and height/reach. Additionally, the researchers did not find an association between climber’s ability to hold shallow (2.8 and 4.3mm) and deep holds (5,8, 7.3, and 12.5mm), and climbing performance was associated the strongest with force on the two middle edges (5.8 and 7.3mm) than on the other edges (2.8, 4.3 and 12.5mm). Beta-Angel note: “the author’s suggestion for the application of greater “pulp” to small holds has to do with deformity of the skin creating greater contact area. Soft tissue compressive force” was calculated by dividing maximum lifting force on the 12.5mm by contact area. Finally, the authors are confused by a height / small-edge force association. We are too.
Reference: Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 2011, 27, 40-46
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/30f1/765f42ef3d2838331c98a6c7808a49277794.pdf
Maximal resultant four fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand in different sport climbing finger grips
AUTHORS: F. Quaine, L. Vigouroux | Year: 2004
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The authors set out to determine whether the “slope” grip or “crimp” grip resulted in different levels of fatigue during sport climbing by testing six elite sport climbers for 80% of their maximum contraction force over 20 repeated 5-second contractions and rests. The authors found that in terms of muscular fatigue, neither grip type provides any more benefit than the other.
Reference: Int J Sports Med. 2004 Nov;25(8):634-7.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15532009
Climbing-specific finger endurance: a comparative study of intermediate rock climbers, rowers and aerobically trained individuals
AUTHORS: Grant S1, Shields C, Fitzpatrick V, Loh WM, Whitaker A, Watt I, Kay JW. | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers compared 9 climbers with 9 rowers and 9 aerobically leg trained athletes using Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) on a climbing-specific finger apparatus, and endurance isometric exercise using 40% MCV under three conditions: (1) sustained; (2) 6 seconds on, 4 seconds off, and (3) 18 seconds on, 12 seconds rest. Blood pressure and blood lactate (a byproduct of the body’s use of simple sugars formed in association with muscular fatigue, often associated with being “pumped”) concentration were measured. While MVC for climbers was significantly greater, there were no significant differences for any of the other tests with the exception of a significantly higher blood lactate concentration for climbers when compared against rowers. Researchers suggest that training and participation in rock climbing may result in some specific adaptations.
REFERENCE: J Sports Sci. 2003 Aug;21(8):621-30.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12875313
Finger strength does not decrease with rock climbing to the point of failure
AUTHORS: PB Watts, RL Jensen, DM Moss, JA Wagensomer | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers attempted to determine whether specific finger configuration is the causative factor in climbing failure through changes in maximum finger force and engagement of forearm musculature. The study did not find that the primary cause of failure is a decrease in the ability to produce concentric finger force (as measured by pre- and post-climb finger force and maximum handgrip strength).
REFERENCE: Medicine & Science in Sports & Science, Volume 35(5) Supplement 1, May 2003 P 264.
Referenced at: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/05/review-of-strength-and-endurance-in.html
A reliable and valid strength measurement of the crimp grip in rock climbing
AUTHOR: D.M. Binney | Year: 2002
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Study used a specialized dynamometer, or hand-grip measurement tool, to test finger strength in order to present a standard measure of the climbing crimp grip. The researchers suggested that their dynamometer is a reliable test for climbers.
REFERENCE: Binney DM. 2nd Int Conf Sci Tech Climbing & Mountaineering, April 2002.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/competitions/high_perfomance_archive/dynamometer.pdf
Grip Strength and Endurance in Rock Climbers
AUTHORS: A Cutis and S R Bollen | Year: 1993
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Pinch and whole hand grip strength and endurance was compared between competition climbers and non-climbers of the same age, sex, and physique. While climbers had more finger strength, researchers found no evidence that strength in hands alone correlates with success other than the suggestion that pinch grip strength increased with the length of climbing experience.
REFERENCE: Cutis, Bollen, Proceedings of the institution of mechanical engineers, Vol 207, issue 2, (1993)
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1243/PIME_PROC_1993_207_275_02
Effect of habitual knuckle cracking on hand function
AUTHOR: Castelanos, Axelrod | Year: 1990
SUMMARY/RESULTS: 300 patients screened for knuckle cracking along with a number of other variables. No correlation identified with arthritus, however, correlation identifies with lower grip strength, likelihood of family members doing it, smoking, drinking alcohol, and biting nails.
REFERENCE: Annals of the Rheumatic Diseases 1990; 49: 308-309
http://ard.bmj.com/content/49/5/308.full.pdf+html
Effect of the finger position on maximal fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand during a simulated rock climbing gripping exercise
AUTHORS: F. Quaine, L. Vigouroux, N. Termoz, P. Portero | Year: unknown
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers measured the force of three maximal isometric finger flexion contractions in two different grip styles: crimp grip and slope grip. Quaine et al. found that the force applied as a result of the different grip styles was not significant suggesting that the use of the different grip types matters not on force but on the characteristics of the hold (size and shape). They also found that repetitive contractions decrease fingertip force and that the finger position does not affect fatigue rate.
Reference: Unknown.
https://isbweb.org/images/conf/2003/shortAbstracts/QUAINE_161-166_SPO_E.pdf