Research > Research Inventory > Sports Psychology: Youth Specific Studies
Evaluation of a Diagnostic-Therapeutic Algorithm for Finger Growth Plate Injuries in Adolescent Climbers
Authors: Volker Schöffl, Isabelle Schöffl, Sascha Flohé, Yasser El-Sheikh, Christoph Lutter | Year: 2022
Summary/Results: This study evaluated a diagnostic and treatment algorithm for finger growth plate stress injuries in adolescent climbers, commonly affecting the middle or ring finger during puberty. All 37 climbers achieved bone healing, and most returned to climbing pain-free, with a few showing mild loss of finger motion.
Sample Size and Ability: 37 adolescent climbers (typically ages 13–15) treated at German referral centers.
Training Implications: Early recognition of finger pain at the base (non-palm side) of the middle phalanx is critical, as growth plate injuries can be mistaken for pulley injuries. Prompt reporting, rest, and appropriate imaging may improve outcomes and reduce complications.
Open Source: https://open.fau.de/server/api/core/bitstreams/78e64813-91eb-4b03-a83a-1c5f5601302f/content
Reference: Schöffl V, Schöffl I, Flohé S, El-Sheikh Y, Lutter C. Evaluation of a Diagnostic-Therapeutic Algorithm for Finger Growth Plate Injuries in Adolescent Climbers. The American Journal of Sports Medicine. 2022;50(1):229–237.
Coaches’ Attitudes Toward Campus Board Training in Adolescent Climbers
Authors: McMullen, C. W., Mugleston, B. J., & Booker, L. N. | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: 63% of surveyed coaches reported using full-weight (no foot contact) campus board training for adolescent climbers; only 1% used it for all climbers, while most restricted it to those meeting criteria for age (usually 14–17), physical maturity, strong climbing form, or strength benchmarks (e.g., bouldering V5 or 5 pull-ups). Campus training, when used, ranged from 2 to 50 weeks per year, with most coaches using it about 1 hour per week (range: 0–2 hours). Techniques included laddering (98%), skip laddering (80%), double dynos (41%), and other movements like “bumping”; some coaches restricted hold types to jugs or slopers for younger climbers. The survey included 73 U.S.-based coaches representing approximately 3,090 adolescent climbers, aged 4 to 17 years.
Training Implications: These implications are drawn from coach-reported practices, not experimental data. Many coaches require visible physical maturity or closed growth plates before allowing campus board use. Modifying the training (e.g., using slopers, emphasizing open-hand grips, enforcing proper scapular engagement) is a common injury-prevention strategy. While only 60% of coaches track injuries, 88% expressed willingness to use a shared tracking system—suggesting a future opportunity for standardized monitoring.
Open Source: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1016/j.wem.2021.02.003
Reference: McMullen CW, Mugleston BJ, Booker LN. Coaches’ Attitudes Toward Campus Board Training in Adolescent Climbers. Wilderness Environ Med. 2021;32(2):192–199. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.2021.02.003
Effects of Age on Injury Patterns in Rock Climbing Injuries in the United States
Authors: Flaherty S, Henderson N | Year: 2021
Summary/Results: National emergency department data showed climbing injuries increased from ~2,667 in 2000 to ~7,087 in 2019. Youth climbers (≤18) were more likely than adults to sustain head/neck and upper limb injuries (odds ratios ~1.52–1.55). Youth were less likely to be injured on weekends or during summer.
Sample Size and Ability: Estimates based on >85,000 climbing-related emergency visits; no grades reported.
Training Implications: Youth settings should emphasize fall safety and protection for head and arms. Injury prevention may be especially relevant during weekdays and non-summer periods when youth injuries were more common.
Paywall: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/00913847.2021.1932631
Reference: Flaherty S, Henderson N. Effects of Age on Injury Patterns in Rock Climbing Injuries in the United States. Physical Educator. 2021.
The Association of Finger Growth Plate Injury History and Speed Climbing in Youth Competition Climbers
Authors: Rachel N. Meyers, David R. Howell, Aaron J. Provance | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This survey of 267 youth competition climbers (ages 9–18) found that those with a history of finger growth plate injuries—about 5% of the sample—spent more time speed climbing, trained more hours overall, and rested less compared to peers without such injuries. They were also nearly four times more likely to report training regularly on the IFSC speed wall, where the dynamic, repetitive movements resemble high-risk double dynos. Many youth climbers misidentified pulley injuries as the most common risk, suggesting growth plate injuries may be overlooked or underreported. The findings point to speed wall training and heavy training loads as potential contributors to these injuries, especially during rapid growth periods.
Beta Angel note: What’s striking here is the disconnect—youth climbers are at highest risk for growth plate injuries, yet many don’t even recognize them as a danger. If awareness is this low, prevention will depend less on athletes and more on coaches and systems catching the risks early.
Reference:
Meyers, R. N., Howell, D. R., & Provance, A. J. (2020). The association of finger growth plate injury history and speed climbing in youth competition climbers. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 31(4), 421–429. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1016/j.wem.2020.06.008
Returning to Climb after Epiphyseal Finger Stress Fracture
Authors: Rachel N. Meyers, Volker R. Schöffl, Omer Mei-Dan, Aaron J. Provance | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This article addresses finger stress fractures in the growth plate (epiphyseal fractures), the most common injury in youth climbers. These injuries are most likely during puberty when the growth plate is fragile, and they are often linked to intense finger training methods like campus boarding. The authors highlight long-term risks, including early-onset hand osteoarthritis, and note the absence of structured return-to-climb guidelines. They propose a staged protocol to help injured youth climbers gradually and safely resume climbing, giving medical staff and coaches a framework for progression.
Meyers, R. N., Schöffl, V. R., Mei-Dan, O., & Provance, A. J. (2020). Returning to climb after epiphyseal finger stress fracture. Current Sports Medicine Reports, 19(11), 457–462. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33156031/
Joint Mobility Protection during the Developmental Age among Free Climbing Practitioners: A Pilot Study
Authors: Gasbarro L, Padua E, Tancredi V, Annino G, Montorsi M, Maugeri G, D’Amico AG. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
The authors tested a one-year, twice-per-week mobility program in 15 novice climbers aged 8–18, grouped by developmental stage. All groups improved joint mobility, but with age-specific patterns: hips and spine responded most in 12–14 year olds, shoulders in 15–18 year olds. A gap of about six weeks without training led to noticeable declines in flexibility, highlighting the need for steady practice. In practice: younger kids benefitted most from playful climbing-like games (wall-bar obstacle course, “spiders and crabs”), middle teens from partner stretches and straddle-ball rolls, and older teens from targeted joint drills (finger wave mobility, deep squat with ankle circles, varied walking gaits). The authors did not make broader recommendations beyond these activities, but the age-based breakdown itself serves as a guide.
Beta Angel note: this paper includes excellent photos of the exercises, which makes the descriptions especially coach-friendly.
Reference:
Gasbarro, L., Padua, E., Tancredi, V., Annino, G., Montorsi, M., Maugeri, G., & D’Amico, A. G. (2020). Joint Mobility Protection during the Developmental Age among Free Climbing Practitioners: A Pilot Study. Journal of Functional Morphology and Kinesiology, 5(1), 14. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7739414/
Athlete’s Heart in Elite Sport Climbers: Cardiac Adaptations Determined Using ECG and Echocardiography Data
Authors: Isabelle Schöffl, Jan Wüstenfeld, Günther Jetzinger, Stephan Dittrich, Carina Lutter, Volker Schöffl | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study explored whether high-level adolescent climbers show changes in their heart structure over time by using electrocardiograms (ECG – electrical activity of the heart) and echocardiograms (ultrasound images of the heart). The researchers examined 47 climbers (ages ~15–16), with a follow-up over two years in 14 of them. No dangerous heart abnormalities were found in any climbers. However, over time, the thickness of the heart’s left ventricle walls (a common training adaptation called left ventricular hypertrophy) increased in climbers and became similar to those seen in elite Nordic skiers. Unlike the skiers, climbers did not show as much increase in the inner diameter of the heart chambers, which suggests a different type of adaptation—possibly related to the mixed physical demands of climbing.
Beta-Angel note: The study adds valuable data to a field where sudden cardiac death has been reported but rarely studied in climbing. While no pathologies were found, the clear training-related growth in heart wall thickness reminds us that elite climbing is a cardiovascular stimulus and deserves continued consideration.
Reference: Wilderness Environ Med. 2020 Dec;31(4):417-426. doi: 10.1016/j.wem.2020.07.005
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1016/j.wem.2020.07.005
Are Adolescent Climbers Aware of the Most Common Youth Climbing Injury and Safe Training Practices?
Authors: Rachel N. Meyers, Steven L. Hobbs, David R. Howell, Aaron J. Provance | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
267 youth climbers (ages 8–18) were surveyed at Nationals to test their knowledge of injuries and training safety. Only 15% correctly identified growth plate injuries as the most common youth climbing injury—most chose A2 pulley injuries instead. Nearly 60% didn’t know what a growth plate injury was, and only 6% knew that age 18 is the safe minimum to start double dyno campus boarding. Despite this, 76% trained on campus boards. Many misdiagnosed pulley injuries may actually be unrecognized growth plate injuries.
Beta-Angel note: This paper highlights a serious education gap in youth climbing. It’s worth considering whether some “climbing culture” myths—like assuming A2 pulley injuries are always the problem—are actually putting young climbers at long-term risk.
Reference: Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2020 Jan 28;17(3):812. doi: 10.3390/ijerph17030812. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7037851/
Risk-taking Behaviour and Aspects on Adolescents’ Participation in High-risk Sports
Authors: Anika Frühauf, Martin Kopp | Year: 2020
Summary: This review explored how high-risk sports (like climbing, freeride skiing, and mountain biking) may serve as a healthy outlet for teens who are naturally drawn to risk. Unlike negative risk behaviors (such as substance use), these sports offer rewards like challenge, excitement, and peer recognition in a safer, socially acceptable context. The authors highlight that such sports—when managed with safety education and gear—may help boost self-confidence, mood, independence, and the ability to handle stress (resilience). Although more research is needed, early findings suggest that adventure sport programs might even help in mental health treatment for teens.
Beta-Angel note: This is a great reminder that risk isn’t always a threat—it can be a tool. For climbers especially, it may build traits we typically train in the gym: self-trust, control under pressure, and calculated decision-making.
Reference:
Prax Kinderpsychol Kinderpsychiatr. 2020 Mar;69(2):98-108. doi: 10.13109/prkk.2020.69.2.98
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32114948/
Symptomatic epiphyseal sprains and stress fractures of the finger phalanges in adolescent sport climbers.
Authors: Bärtschi, Scheibler, Schweizer | Year: 2019
Summary: Overview of adolescent climbers with Epiphyseal (growth plate) stress fractures treated at a single clinic in the period of 12 years (2006 – 2018). Analyses shows that male climbers are more often affected than females, middle finger are most exposed and few had severe fractures when treatment started. All patients were treated with activity changes in a time span up to 12 months. Most patients had no additional consequences after treatment.
Reference: Hand Surg Rehabil. 2019 Sep;38(4):251-256.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31103479
What to Examine in Youth Climbing Athletes: Yearly Examination of the German Climbing Team and its Consequences.
Author: Schöffl, Lutter, Schöffl | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: Medical professionals for the German National Climbing Team report on their annual evaluation of the team’s members using 7 standards for examination: (1) sports-medical evaluation; (2) standard laboratory tests; (3) ECG Standard and Stress tests; (4) Spiroergometry; (5) Echocardiography; (6) Orthopedic examination; (7) other examinations as medically necessary (E.g. x-ray). The team found little of note other than one athlete who needed surgery for a hip impingement, a decrease in climbers with swollen finger joints, and a slight prevalence of infection amongst the climbers. Beta-angel note: check out the 5- (2007) and 11-year (2018) follow-ups as well.
Reference: Sportverl Sportschad 2019; 33: 1-4
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31574559
FINGER STRESS FRACTURES IN YOUTH ELITE ROCK CLIMBERS
Authors: Meyers et al. | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: The authors received survey results about how 267 8-18-year olds at a large championship-level climbing event in the United States perceive risk. The authors were able to distinguish between informed and uninformed athletes regarding stress fractures, and suggest that (1) youth climbers are prone to thinking about stress fractures as pulley injuries, and (2) training for speed climbing may be a risk factor for growth plate injuries. Beta-Angel note: to determine whether a youth climber was informed or uninformed, the authors used a series of questions surrounding which injuries were most common, the “safe age” for double dyno campus training, and correctly classifying stress fractures.
Reference: Orthop J Sports Med. 2019 Mar; 7(3 Suppl)
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6446347/
Assessment of Dietary Intake and Eating Attitudes in Recreational and Competitive Adolescent Rock Climbers: A Pilot Study.
Authors: Michael, Joubert, Witard | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: Pilot study calculated macro-nutrient (carbohydrate, fat, protein), energy, and risk of “disordered eating” in 13 youth male and 9 youth female climbers. As a percentage of the overall study, the youth climbers in general did not meet their carbohydrate (86%) or fat (73%) targets, and were climbing in an energy deficit (82%) regularly. However, they were at low risk for disordered eating. Beta-Angel note: it’s worth noting that “disordered eating” is lower on the continuum than “eating disorders” in terms of frequency or severity. This study has lots of interesting details, but counter to what I might have expected as a layman: (1) both males and females had low disordered eating scores and (2) similar energy/macronutrient profiles between males/females, and between different levels, which apparently was contrary to a study on elite youth athletes (it’s worth noting that this population only included 2 “elite” climbers as defined by the IRCRA, which is a system which may not necessarily score “elite” youth competition climbing well).
Reference: Front Nutr. 2019; 6: 64.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6523393/
Epiphyseal Stress Fractures of the Fingers in an Adolescent Climber: A Potential “Maslow’s Hammer” in Terms of Clinical Reasoning.
Author: Halsey, Johnson, Jones | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: Case study of a 16-year old with a growth plate (stress) fracture. The authors use the case study as a way of noting how climbing-specific literature – specifically surrounding growth plate injuries in children – may not be well-understood and may lead to either doctors not correctly diagnosing or (as suggested in this case) not providing an understanding of the consequences of those injuries. A review of the literature informed doctor recommendations in this study to involve: seeking medical attention if pain in PIP joints do not respond to a week of rest, enhanced imaging (e.g. MRI) if the cause of pain is not determined based on X-ray, stopping climbing as well as splinting, and finally, climbing modification such as avoidance of the crimp grip.
Reference: Curr Sports Med Rep. 2019 Dec;18(12):431-433.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31834172
A German climbing study on depression: a bouldering psychotherapeutic group intervention in outpatients compared with state-of-the-art cognitive behavioural group therapy and physical activation – study protocol for a multicentre randomised controlled trial
Author: Dorscht et al. | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: This paper is not a study but rather a protocol for a randomized controlled trial designed to assess a therapeutic bouldering program over home-administered exercise program and cognitive behavioral therapy – considered the gold standard. The authors intend to test the participants using first two validated depression rating scales (MADRS and PHQ-9) and nine secondary measurements ranging from quality-of-life to body image to self-efficacy questionnaires. Beta-Angel note: We’re crossing our fingers over here that this study gets greenlit. It appears to be a solid study design. The implications could be large according to the study’s authors: therapeutic bouldering interventions may encourage individuals who wouldn’t otherwise seek treatment. Additionally, this protocol shares members with those who published “Long term effects of Bouldering psychotherapy….”
Reference: BMC Psychiatry. 2019; 19: 154.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6525374/
Effects of Short Practice of Climbing on Barriers Self-Efficacy within a Physical Education and Sport Intervention in Germany
Author: Krüger, Seng | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: Researchers compared improvements in 8th graders’ perception of their ability to impact their own performance (termed: self-efficacy) in a control group and a climbing intervention group after a two-day climbing excursion. The intervention appeared to be effective at improving climber’s perception of their own belay skills, but not necessarily the barriers to improving their climbing skill.
Reference: Sports (Basel). 2019 Apr; 7(4): 81.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6524345/#app1-sports-07-00081
“The Credit Card or the Taxi”: A Qualitative Investigation of Parent Involvement in Indoor Competition Climbing
Authors: BA Garst, RJ Gagnon, GA Stone | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: Authors used 4 focus groups of 27 parents to better understand the factors behind parental involvement in indoor youth competition climbing. According to the study, parent involvement in ICC (Indoor Climbing Competition) is (1) significant, evolving, volunteers-driven, and sometimes excessive; (2) facilitated by community and main-stream sport dissatisfaction, and (3) constrained by finances, geography, and awareness.
Reference: Leisure Sciences (May 2019)
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/01490400.2019.1646172?journalCode=ulsc20
PDF: Link
Children’s perception of action boundaries and how it affects their climbing behavior.
Author: JL Croft, GJ Pepping, C. Button, JY Chow | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: Researchers tested 30 children for the relationship between their perception of their own ability to reach horizontally, diagonally, and vertically with their ability to do a climbing traverse. The children tended to overestimate their vertical reaching ability and underestimate or accurately estimate their horizontal and diagonal reaching ability, and horizontal reach perception appeared to accurately predict both success and better speeds of doing the traverse. Beta-Angel note: the discussion section in this paper suggests that perception is based on the potential degrees of freedom inherent in your given body position – or the location of your body, and any potential constraints on it, while considering reach in the rough direction of travel that’s being tested. Factors influencing perception could include: experience, intention to use the hold, postural control, and flexibility.
Reference: J Exp Child Psychol. 2018 Feb;166:134-146.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28888193
Sports Psychology > Youth Specific Studies
Pediatric and adolescent injury in rock climbing
Author: V. Schöffl, C. Lutter, K. Woollings, I. Schöffl | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: This research paper is an aggregation of injury science regarding youth climbing using the following major headings: Age differentiation, anatomical location, environmental location, acute vs. chronic injuries and changing trends in injuries, injury types and severities, intrinsic (within the body) vs. extrinsic (outside of the body) risk factors, “inciting events” (reasons for the injury), injury prevention, and recommendations. A small highlight of evidence-based preventive measures is provided here: (1) dynamic belay techniques for children; (2) reasonable shoe size, (3) gender and biological age-related training, (4) neglect of campus board before closure of growth plates, and (5) no preventive finger taping. Beta-Angel note: highly recommended for youth coaches and physios.
Reference: Res Sports Med. 2018;26(sup1):91-113.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30431364
Sports Psychology > Youth Specific Studies
The system of development of coordination abilities of young climbers 6-7 years old
Authors: Kozina et al. | Year: 2018
Summary/Results: No Summary Available yet.
Reference: http://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.2536470
Link to Research
Ultrasound evaluation of stress injuries and physiological adaptations in the fingers of adolescent competitive rock climbers
Author: K. Garcia, D. Jaramillo, E. Rubesova | Year: 2017
Summary/Results: Researchers evaluated 20 male/female climbers divided up into 3 different levels of climbing and compared them to 6 male/female non-climbers using different types of radiographic imaging, and a questionnaire. The climbers were divided up based on: (1) climbing grade, (2) use of supplemental finger exercises, (3) number of years climbing, and (4) hours per week spent climbing/training. The authors suggest that climbing results in adaptive changes (flexor tendons, volar plates, and soft tissues) in the fingers of young climbers but that these adaptive changes also involve the potential for stress injuries. The authors also suggested that there are both advantages and disadvantages in the use of MRI imaging over Ultrasound imaging.
Reference: Pediatr Radiol. 2018 Mar;48(3):366-373
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29218364
To be active through indoor-climbing: an exploratory feasibility study in a group of children with cerebral palsy and typically developed children
Author: MS Christensen, T. Jensen, CB Voigt, JB Nielsen, J. Lorentzen| Year: 2017
Summary/Results: Authors tested the impact of a 3-week climbing program on two groups: kids with and without cerebral palsy (CP). The program assessed measures of physical activity, climbing performance, functional motor tests, physiological hand strength and speed tests, tests which measures how well the brain connects to the muscles, ankle joint tests, and psychological tests. While finger strength did not improve over the course, motor improvements included a sit-to-stand test, range of motion in the ankle, a precision test, and a rate of force production test (in the least affected hand) all showed improvement in the CP kids. The authors attribute the motor improvement to increased connection between the brain and muscle.
Reference: BMC Neurol. 2017 Jun 15;17(1):112.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28619011
Rock climbing for promoting physical activity in youth
AUTHOR: SR Siegel, SM Fryer | Year: 2017
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers reviewed 9 articles on youth climbing and health-related fitness. They found that climbing was not adequate at recreational levels to promote aerobic fitness in children unless through a structured session, but it is beneficial for muscular strength and endurance, and good for providing bone-strengthening exercises. The reviewers found that in general, a lack of good research and a low number of studied participants may be contribute to the lack of support for climbing in schools.
REFERENCE: American Journal of Lifestyle Medicine, Vol. 11, Issue 3 (2017)
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/280246783_Rock_Climbing_for_Promoting_Physical_Activity_in_Youth
Comparing climbing kinematics of children with and without pathological gait
AUTHOR: J. T. N. Miller, S. D. Russell | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers compared lower limb force, upper limb force, joint angle ranges and lower limb muscle-tendon lengths in 3 children with cerebral palsy against 5 children who had more typical development. While no difference was found with respect to upper limb force production and the average length of lower limb muscle tendons, researchers found that the children with cerebral palsy had reduced lower limb force production and decreased joint angle ranges.
REFERENCE: 3rd Rock Climbing Research Congress. Proceedings 2016, Telluride, CO
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_76117ef587b34539bc29d428a39b366b.pdf
Indoor competition climbing as a context for positive youth development
AUTHOR: B. Garst, G. Stone, R. Gagnon | Year: 2016
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers survey 623 parents and climbers to determine whether indoor competition climbing has positive outcomes for youth. The researchers identified themes and their importance to responders based upon the frequency with which they were mentioned: combining physical, social, and mental development (40.8%), supportive, caring relationships (29.4%), confidence (19.9%), and character (7.2%). Additional conclusions include highlighting benefits for youth females.
REFERENCE: Journal of Youth Development, 2016, 11, 2
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/312121478_Indoor_Competition_Climbing_as_a_Context_for_Positive_Youth_Development
Health-related fitness and energy expenditure in recreational youth rock climbers 8-16 years of age
AUTHOR: SR Siegel, JM Robinson, SA Johnston, MR Lindley, KA Pfeiffer | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers studied 15 male and female adolescents to determine how 3 months of climbing impacts physical fitness and whether the exercise can provide moderate to vigorous levels of physical activity. Because the study suggested climbing met recommendations for exercise intensity and duration, and for muscle and bone strengthening, researchers suggests that rock climbing can provide moderate intensity levels of physical activity.
REFERENCE: International Journal of Exercise Science 8(2): 174-183, 2015
PDF: http://digitalcommons.wku.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1686&context=ijes
Incidence, mechanism and risk factors for injury in youth rock climbers
AUTHOR: KY Woollings, CD McKay, J Kang, WH Meeuwisse, CA Emery | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: [UPDATE] Researchers asked 116 youth climbers to fill out a survey on the extent of climbing injuries. The researchers found that there were 4.44 injuries per 1000 climbing hours, that sprains (27%) and strains (26%) were the most common injury, repetitive overuse was the primary cause of injury (42%), specifically in the location of the hands and fingers (21%). The authors suggest that older age, injury in a sport other than climbing, and preventive taping are risk factors for injury. Beta-Angel note: this is a case of the risk factors being associated with the injury, but that should not necessarily mean they are the cause.
REFERENCE: Br J Sports Med. 2015 Jan;49(1):44-50
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25385168
Anthropometry, physical fitness and psychological profile of adolescent rock climbers from South of Spain: predictors of performance
AUTHOR: J. Moreno Pérez, F. B. Ortega, L. C. Corpas-Hidalgo, I. Garrido, V. EspañaRomero | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers gathered data on 19 young elite climbers and compared them to larger sets of data on non-climbers in order to identify factors which determine climbing performance in youth. The researchers suggest that youth climbers have lower levels of obesity and better fitness than normal children, that the highest average of body types were of the ectomorph (greater than average in being thin, narrow, and with low body fat), even while a mesomorph (greater than average muscular development) body type, low body surface area, and daily motivation all correlated with high climbing performance.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Congress, Sep 2014.
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Oxygen uptake and energy expenditure for children during rock climbing activity
AUTHOR: PB Watts, ML Ostrowski | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers sought to measure energy use in 29 children during (1) a sustained climbing period, and (2) a series of interval climbing periods. Energy use during the interval climbing both averaged higher and peaked higher than during the sustained climbing period.
REFERENCE: Pediatr Exerc Sci. 2014 Feb;26(1):49-55.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24018310
Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children
AUTHOR: M. Panácková, J. Baláš, V. Bunc & D. Giles | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers assessed 25 male and female children for oxygen consumption and heart rate on two separate routes and for time during a subsequent 8-week period of climbing. There were no differences in oxygen consumption between boys and girls, the children could reach a max heart rate between 81-90%, and typical children’s climbing sessions involved short bursts of high-intensity climbing activity punctuated by longer periods of rest.
REFERENCE: Sports Technology, Vol 7, Issue 3-4: Rock Climbing (2014)
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/19346182.2014.968251?journalCode=rtec20
Epiphyseal stress fractures of adolescent climbing athletes – a 3.0T MRI evaluation
AUTHOR: T. Bayer, V. Schöffl, M. Lenhart,T. Herold | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The authors assessed whether a type of MRI machine is effective in assessing stress fracture injuries in children at the time of injury and during a follow-up. The authors found that the readers of the MRI results could effectively identify and assess the injury, even when a conventional x-ray was not helpful.
REFERENCE: 2nd International Rock Climbing Research Congress, Sep 2014
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_f52f11ccc489434bb70b78ee10563b95.pdf
Physiological effects of bouldering activities in upper elementary school students
AUTHOR: M. Fencl, J. Muras, J. Steffen, R. Battista, A. Elfessi | Year: 2011
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers compared the heart rates of 64 elementary school students who participated in either (a) a structured bouldering activity, or (b) a non-structured bouldering activity. While differences occurred between active and resting heart rates, no significant difference was found in the average active heart rate, suggesting that ‘bouldering is a legitimate physical fitness activity’ regardless of method.
REFERENCE: Physical Educator, v68 n4 p199-209 2011
https://eric.ed.gov/?id=EJ961832
The effect of climbing wall use on the grip strength of fourth-grade students
AUTHOR: CD Lirgg, R. Dibrezzo, M. Gray, T. Esslinger | Year: 2011
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Beta-Angel note: If someone has access, we would appreciate a summary.
REFERENCE: Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, Vol. 82, No. 2, pp. 350-354 (2011)
https://eric.ed.gov/?id=EJ966115
Effect of indoor wall climbing on self-efficacy and self-perceptions of Children with special needs
AUTHOR: ER Mazzoni, PL Purves, J. Southward, RE Rhodes, VA Temple | Year: 2009
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers assessed the impact of a 6-week climbing program on 46 children with disabilities using a survey on their perception of themselves and their ability to succeed. While children’s perception of their own ability to succeed at climbing improved significantly, their perception of their own athletic and social competence, as well as overall self-worth did not, suggesting that other activities which improve self-perceptions of the ability to succeed – beyond climbing – are required to improve a child’s overall self-perception.
REFERENCE: Adapted Physical Activity Quarterly, 2009, 26, 259-273
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/47aa/ec88bc4850d7bb2bac865c4a953715bff628.pdf
Changes in upper body strength and body composition after 8 weeks indoor climbing in youth
AUTHOR: J. Balas, B. Strejcova, T. Maly, AJ Martin | Year: 2009
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers studied the effect of climbing volume on upper limb strength and endurance in 50 youth climbers over the course of 8 weeks. Both boys and girls who climbed more significantly increased their performance in hanging with bent arms and grip strength. Additionally, while no changes were seen in overall body fat, significant changes were found in fat-free mass, which suggests that weight was being transferred between metabolically active cells, which are associated with increased nourishment in athletes, and metabolically inactive cells.
REFERENCE: Isokinetics and Exercise science 17 (2009) 173-179
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/264783210_Changes_in_upper_body_strength_and_body_composition_after_8_weeks_indoor_climbing_in_youth
Radiographic adaptations to the stress of high-level rock climbing in junior athletes: a 5-year longitudinal study of the German Junior National Team and a group of recreational climbers
AUTHOR: VR Schoffl, T. Hochholzer, AB Imhoff, I. Schoffl | Year: 2007
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers compared 10 elite youth athletes to 10 recreational climbers over the course of five years using survey and x-ray of the hand in order to determine whether adaptations to climbing may lead to finger joint disease. Although the researchers found what they call “adaptive stress reactions” to climbing in the elite youth climbers, they found no evidence of finger joint disease. However, they recommend a longer follow-up.
REFERENCE: Am J Sports Med. 2007 Jan;35(1):86-92.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16973900
Physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers
AUTHOR: AB Morrison, VR Schoffl | Year: 2007
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers reviewed 50 articles associated with both (a) training and (b) injury in order to make evidence-based recommendations for youth climbers. The authors make recommendations for bouldering participation age; hang-board use; male/female distinctions in injury and training; association of growth-spurts and injury; distinctions in training based on age; shoe fit, and; diet. Beta-Angel note: while most papers defy simple summaries, this paper in particular suggests conclusions around multiple different areas and thus is worth a read if you’re a youth educator.
REFERENCE: British Journal of Sports Medicine, Vol. 41, Issue 12, 2007
http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/41/12/852 or (Note: copy paste link, don’t click) https://www.researchgate.net/publication/5809419_Physiological_responses_to_rock_climbing_in_young_climbers
Reliability of peak forces during a finger curl motion common in rock climbing
AUTHOR: PB Watts, RL Jensen | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers tested the reliability of a finger force sensor on 31 youth competitive rock climbers. Peak finger curl force is a highly reproducible measurement using the tested measurement system.
REFERENCE: Measurement in Physical Education and Exercise Science, 7(4), 263-267
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Randall_Jensen/publication/232919007_Reliability_of_Peak_Forces_During_a_Finger_Curl_Motion_Common_in_Rock_Climbing/links/0fcfd50af5b40c3e1d000000/Reliability-of-Peak-Forces-During-a-Finger-Curl-Motion-Common-in-Rock-Climbing.pdf
Anthropometry of young competitive sport rock climbers
AUTHOR: Watts PB1, Joubert LM, Lish AK, Mast JD, Wilkins B. | Year: 2003
SUMMARY/RESULTS: This study characterized the physiology of young competitive rock climbers compared to their non-climbing peers and to climbing adults. They found that young rock climbers had similar physical characteristics to adult rock climbers – small stature, low body mass, lower number of skinfolds, and high handgrip to mass ratio. However, young rock climbers did not have significantly lower than average BMIs, as is often seen in adult competitive rock climbers.
REFERENCE: Br J Sports Med. 2003;37(5):420-4.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14514533
Detecting pupils talented for sport climbing in Slovenian schools
AUTHOR: B Leskošek, M Bohanec, V Rajkoviè | Year: 1999
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers presented an evaluation model for sport climbing, which is part of a knowledge-based system called “Talent” – a computer tool for physical education teachers to help both discover talent and counsel children on their desire to take up competitive sport. The paper shows which characteristics are important for sport climbing (body weight and height, % body fat, strength of the arms and body, co-ordination, and flexibility, discusses congruence (which was high) between the computer-based system and a Slovenian national climbing team trainer’s assessment, and suggests that the inclusion of sport climbing in a broader assessment system can help bring knowledge about the sport to the public. Beta-Angel note: the inner workings of the Slovenian conveyor belt of talent have been revealed!
REFERENCE: International Conference on Science and Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering, 1999, University of Leeds, UK.
http://dk.mors.si/Dokument.php?id=17