Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement
AUTHOR: N. Draper, D. Giles, V. Schoffl, FK Fuss, P. Watts, P Wolf, J. Balas, V. Espana-Romero, GB Gonzalez, S. Fryer, M. Fanchini, L. Vigouroux, L. Seifert, L. Donath, M. Spoerri, K. Bonetti, K. Phillips, U. Stocker, F. Bourassa-Moreau, I. Garrido, S. Drum, S. Beekmeyer, J. Ziltener, N. Taylor, I. Beeretz, F. Mally, AM Amca, C. Linhart, E. Abreu | Year: 2015
SUMMARY/RESULTS: A statement by the International Rock Climbing Research Association which details (1) a universal scale for converting local/national climbing grades, and (2) standards for reporting about climber characteristics such as: discipline of climbing, indoor vs. outdoor focus, average time climbing or training, experience level, competitive experience, and preference for style of ascent.
REFERENCE: Journal of Sports Technology, Vol. 8, Issue 3-4 (2015)
Longer Version (but not the full version): https://www.ircra.rocks/single-post/2016/09/12/Reporting-Grades-in-Climbing-Research
Indoor Climbing Walls: The Sport of the Nineties
AUTHOR: R. Mittelstaedt | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: An overview of a history of climbing walls. Beta-Angel note: an article we didn’t have access to. Would love a short summary.
REFERENCE: Journal of Physical Education, Recreation & Dance, Vol. 68, Issue 9 (1996)
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/07303084.1997.10605024 or http://docslide.net/documents/indoor-climbing-walls-the-sport-of-the-nineties.html
“It’s a place to climb”: place meanings of indoor rock climbing facilities
AUTHOR: C. Kulczycki, T. Hinch | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers used a survey to examine the extent to which 21 climbers attach a special meaning to rock climbing gyms. The researchers found that indoor climbing gyms have special meaning to climbers, specifically around the following themes: gyms are consciously artificial, re-create nature, are accessible, provide a sport-specific distinction, and cater to outdoor desires, loyalty, skill development, physical fitness, and camaraderie.
REFERENCE: Leisure/Loisir, Vol. 38, Issue 3-4 (2014)
Pretzel Logic an embodied ethnography of a rock climb
AUTHOR: J. Dutkiewicz | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: The author identified the “central skills, understanding, and experiences” of a specific rock climb, graded 5.12a on the Yosemite Decimal System and called “Pretzel logic”, and 8 male and female climbers who climbed it. On completion of the climb, the climbers specifically noted their personal, physical experience on the climb rather than grade, location, rock type, etc., suggesting a deeply personal meaning to the interaction with the climb.
REFERENCE: Space and Culture, Vol. 18, Issue 1, p. 25-38 (2014).
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1206331214532044?journalCode=saca or PDF: https://betaangelcom.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ffbda-spaceandculture-2015-dutkiewicz-25-38.pdf
Identifying the opportunities and threats of sport climbing in Iran
AUTHOR: M. Mokhtarian, A. Khodayari, M. Nourbakhsh | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers asked 86 coaches, route setters, judges, elite athletes and managers of sport climbing in Iran to complete a 35 item survey on the extent of opportunities available and potential threats associated with sport climbing in Iran. The researchers identified 17 opportunities and 18 threats and suggest that planning can be used to decrease threats, such as a lack of knowledge about sport climbing among physical education teachers, and take advantage of opportunities, such as the use of national TV to broadcast competitions.
REFERENCE: European journal of experimental biology, 4(1); 110-116 2014