Research > Research Inventory > Biomechanics: Power

Upper-limb power test in rock-climbing

AUTHORS: G. Laffaye, JM Collin, G. Levernier, J. Padulo  |  Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers tested 34 athletes of different abilities in order to see whether a novel methodology called the arm-board jump test, which requires an explosive pull up from two large holds and a requirement to slap a board as high as possible, is a reliable instrument for differentiating between climbers of different ability levels. The test can effectively differentiate between novice, intermediate, and elite climbers and shows a distinction in speed-power profiles, whereby boulderers tend towards quick and powerful, and route climbers are either quick and not powerful, or slow and not powerful. Beta-Angel note: Delaney Miller, the route climbing “power sloth”, wasn’t available for comment.
REFERENCE: Int J Sports Med. 2014 Jul;35(8):670-5

Sport-specific power assessment for rock climbing

AUTHORS: D. Nick, T. Dickson, G. Blackwell, G. Ellis  |  Year: 2011
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers tested 38 male and female climbers using a novel way of measurement called “the power slap” test, which requires an explosive pull up from a hanging position (either narrow grip or wide grip) and a requirement to slap a scaled board as high as possible. While both the narrow and wide grip tests were able to correlate with climbing performance, the researchers recommend the narrow test (which had a marginally better ability to correlate with performance) in differentiating between climbers of differing ability levels (novice, intermediate, advanced, and elite).
REFERENCE: Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness Vol 51 – No 3, May, 2011