Research > Research Inventory > Sports Psychology: Route Preview
Visual Perception in Expert Athletes: The Case of Rock Climbers
Authors: Marcen-Cinca et al. | Year: 2022
Summary: Twenty-seven advanced and elite male climbers completed basic vision tests—peripheral vision, sharpness of vision, and ability to see faint patterns—to see whether visual abilities differ by climbing level. Elite climbers, identified by higher self-reported redpoint grade, showed better peripheral vision, while both groups performed similarly on sharpness and contrast. The authors note that these results should be interpreted carefully because the tests were general eye-clinic measures and the sample was small, but they suggest that more exposure to complex routes may relate to stronger use of peripheral information.
Beta-Angel note: This may help explain why stronger climbers often identify usable holds or sequences faster during preview and movement planning.
Reference: Front Psychol. 2022;13:903518
OPEN SOURCE: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9330107/
The Visual Search Strategies Underpinning Effective Observational Analysis in the Coaching of Climbing Movement
Authors: Mitchell, J., Maratos, F. A., Giles, D., Taylor, N., Butterworth, A., & Sheffield, D. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study compared expert and novice climbing coaches as they analyzed climbers while wearing eye-tracking glasses. Experts looked less but saw more—making fewer fixations that lasted longer, and directing them toward the climber’s core and footwork. Novices scattered attention across hands and feet without clear rationale. When reviewing their gaze data, experts explained their choices using principles of movement (e.g., hips shifting to balance) and a hierarchical skill analysis (e.g., starting with foot stability before evaluating full-body coordination). Novices, by contrast, mostly spotted isolated errors like foot slips or grip issues. Overall, expertise in observation stemmed less from sharper eyes and more from sharper frameworks guiding what to look for and why.
Beta Angel note: The key difference here is between spotting isolated errors (e.g., “the climber missed that foothold”) and recognizing principles of movement (e.g., “the hips need to shift over the foot to enable balance”) and hierarchical skill analysis (e.g., “first I check if basic footwork is stable, then I progress to evaluating more complex coordination between hands, feet, and core”). Helping coaches move from error-spotting toward principle- and hierarchy-based analysis may be central to developing expertise.
Reference:
Mitchell, J., Maratos, F. A., Giles, D., Taylor, N., Butterworth, A., & Sheffield, D. (2020). The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement. Frontiers in Psychology, 11, 1025. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.01025
Full text: https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/psychology/articles/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.01025/full
On-Sight and Red-Point Climbing: Changes in Performance and Route-Finding Ability in Male Advanced Climbers
Authors: Limonta E, Fanchini M, Rampichini S, Cé E, Longo S, Coratella G, Esposito F. | Year: 2020
Summary/Results:
This study tested 16 advanced male climbers on the same route in both on-sight and red-point conditions. Red-point attempts were faster, smoother, and required fewer exploratory moves and stops. Climbers also showed lower peak heart rate, lower lactate, less anxiety, and higher self-confidence. Route interpretation (RI) improved across climbs, with fewer errors in identifying and recalling sequences after red-point trials. Overall, both visual preview and physical practice helped climbers climb more efficiently and with less physiological and psychological strain.
Beta Angel Note: The authors suggest RI can be trained through preview drills, recall tasks, and mental rehearsal. They also note that female climbers often report higher anxiety, which may affect route preview strategies and deserves further study.
Reference:
Limonta, E., Fanchini, M., Rampichini, S, Cé, E., Longo, S., Coratella, G., & Esposito, F. (2020). On-sight and red-point climbing: Changes in performance and route-finding ability in male advanced climbers. Frontiers in Psychology, 11, 902. https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/psychology/articles/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00902/full
Identification of Parameters That Predict Sport Climbing Performance.
Authors: Sanchez et al. | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: The authors interviewed 10 climbers in Belgium who averaged IRCRA 18-25 (5.12a – 5.13d YDS) on the performance characteristics for climbing onsight – where they ultimately ended up focusing on what makes for good route preview. Using a process of coding the interview responses, the authors suggested that route preview consists of decision making for the climb’s progression, and strategically managing the effort of the climb. The authors suggest that the primary strategy for the former (climb progression) is climb path forecasting, while the latter (managing the effort) involves managing or forecasting the total effort across all movement of the climb.
Reference: Front. Psychol., 31 May 2019
https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpsyg.2019.01294/full
Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements*
AUTHOR: L. Seifert, R. Cordier, D. Orth, Y. Courtine, JL Croft | Year: 2017
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Researchers tested eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers on a route for the effect of 4 previewing strategies on climbing technique (specifically “fluency”). The strategies involved sequencing in small chunks, or blocks, zigzagging from left to right, ascending from bottom to top, and fragmentary viewing across different sections. Fluency is a mix of spatial (exploratory vs. performance-related movements), and time-related (immobility amount) measures, and a combination of the two (jerk of the hips). Authors ultimately found multiple conclusions: a role for route preview in (a) reducing anxiety, (b) use of holds in order to figure out potential opportunities for action, and (c) how to chain movements together. They also found a relationship between preview for a shorter period of time and greater fluency (specifically the “hip jerk” measure). Additionally, the more complex route preview strategies (block sequencing and zigzag) were associated with maintaining a stationary position. Beta-Angel note: The amount of conclusions in this article defies a short summary. I recommend a close read.
Beta-Angel note2: See “the usage of eye-tracking technologies in rock-climbing” for more about the ideal type of route preview strategy.
REFERENCE: PLoS ONE 12(4): e0176306 (2017)
http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article/file?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0176306&type=printable
The usage of eye-tracking technologies in rock-climbing
AUTHOR: AI Grushko, SV Leonov | Year: 2014
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Twenty three elite young rock climbers were tested for a hypothesis that differences in route preview, as measured by eye-tracking behavior, depend on the difficulty of routes. The authors state that the hypothesis was confirmed, and that a style of route previewing called “sequence of blocks” was most effective, whereby climbers gradually look over a route in blocks of 2-4 handholds or footholds from beginning to end, paying particular attention to crux moves. Beta-Angel note: “Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements” builds off this work.
REFERENCE: Procedia – Social and Behavioral Sciences, V 146, 25 (2014) 169 – 174
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1877042814047296
Efficacy of pre-ascent climbing route visual inspection in indoor sport climbing
AUTHOR: Sanchez X1, Lambert P, Jones G, Llewellyn DJ | Year: 2012
SUMMARY/RESULTS: Examination of the efficacy of pre-ascent visual inspection. 29 male climbers of intermediate, advanced, and expert categories climbed two indoor sport routes matching (1) ability level and (2) below ability level assessed in terms of output and form. Results indicate that pre-ascent visual inspection is not helpful when it comes to completion of climb. However, it is helpful when it comes to form (as measured by number of stops, and duration of stops). Expert climbers benefited most from route preview in terms of form.
REFERENCE: Scand J Med Sci Sports. 2012 Feb;22(1):67-72.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20561271
Motor Simulation in a Memory Task: Evidence from Rock Climbing
Authors: Pezzulo et al. | Year: 2010
Summary/Results:
Reference: Proceedings of the annual meeting of the Cognitive Science Society Vol. 32
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/1c2f/3137e69961d9f08a271c97878eb9618d93f8.pdf
Mental imagery and video observation in Sport climbing
Authors: Sanchez, Dauby
Summary: No Summary Available Yet. Beta-Angel note: we’re also not sure if this is classified correctly as a “route preview” article.
Reference: Canadian Journal of Behavioural Science 41(2):93-101 · April 2009
https://psycnet.apa.org/record/2009-05252-007
Efficacy of external and internal visual imagery perspectives for the enhancement of performance on tasks in which form is important
Author: Hardy, Callow | Year: 1999
Summary: No Summary Available Yet. Beta-Angel note: the 2009 Sanchez and Dauby article builds off this article.
Reference: Journal of Sport & Exercise Psychology 21(2):95-112 · June 1999
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Movement imagery in rock climbing : Patterns of interference from visual, spatial and kinaesthetic secondary tasks
Authors: Smyth, Waller | Year: 1998
Summary/Results:
Reference: Applied cognitive psychology. 1998, Vol 12, Num 2, pp 145-157 ; ref : 22 ref
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