Image courtesy of Fleebley on Wikimedia Commons
I’m excited to be collaborating with Connor Davis, a climber in Canada interested in doing work with the Beta Angel Project. His first submission is on Eva López-Rivera’s latest climbing research project involving a comparison of three different hangboarding protocols. Here’s his work:
Comparison of the effects of three hangboard strength and endurance programs on grip endurance in sport climbers
Authors: E. López-Rivera, J.J. González-Badillo | Year: 2019
Summary/Results: The researchers compared the effects of three different Hangboard training programs on grip endurance in advanced sport climbers (7c+/8a mean climbing ability). The three programs tested were MaxHangs (4 weeks of maximum added weight dead-hangs followed by 4 weeks of minimum edge dead-hangs), IntHangs (8 weeks of intermittent dead-hangs on minimum edge depth), and Max_IntHangs (4 weeks of maximum added weight dead-hangs followed by 4 weeks of IntHangs). Strength and endurance testing was performed at week 0, week 5, and week 9. The results showed a significant improvement in grip endurance for the IntHangs group after 4 weeks (25.2%) and after 8 weeks (45%), as well as the MaxHangs group after 8 weeks (34.1%). The Max_IntHangs group did not show a significant improvement in grip endurance. Main conclusion: IntHangs are very effective for improving grip endurance, but MaxHangs are also effective. Notes: Interesting that a strength-based program (MaxHangs) showed a 34% increase in grip endurance, but also interesting that it is 17% higher than what the researchers showed in a previous study. This previous study was performed with more advanced sport climbers (8a+/8b mean climbing ability). Contributing Beta-Angel (Connor Davis) note: lower level sport climbers may be better off using the MaxHangs protocol as they can significantly improve small-hold grip endurance while also improving maximum strength.
Reference: J Hum Kinet, 66, 183.
The following are some observations of the study I had for future work by the Beta Angel Project, which Connor seems keen to collaborate on:
- The authors used a 10 second on, 5 second off intermittent hang which they decided on based on analysis off 40-50 videos of climbs between 8b and 9a, where they looked at the “more intense segments of a route.” This is fairly different from the 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off recommendation by the Anderson Brothers who have a popular repeater program. And also different than the 8-4 ratio in the Medernach (2015) study. It may be helpful to understand the assumptions behind the 10-5 [observational analysis, more intense segments of a route, 60-80% of MVC (Maximum Voluntary Contraction), observed minimum time of oxygenation] and the 7-3 (observational analysis, trial and error) protocols in order to better differentiate the research papers, protocols, and effects.
- The resting period the authors chose is based on two studies Connor and I are going to look into: one climbing-specific by gentleman scholar Simon Fryer and the other non-climbing specific. The studies apparently suggested 3-5 seconds of oxygenation. Connor has gamely decided to jump in on a larger project of mine with questions surrounding the efficacy of micro-resting, which tends to have significantly shorter periods of rest (less than 1.5 seconds)
- This article adds a second piece of experimental group research to the argument that strength-based workouts provide positive benefits to climbing-specific endurance tests — the other being the Austrian protocol you can read about in the experimental section.