Updates from February
–The March Beta Angel Climbing Newsletter–
The following is the website version of the March Newsletter – Click this link to subscribe so you can be updated automatically. We promise not to bother you often. 😉
New Section on the Beta Angel Website
While a lot of climbing research looks backward, some research studies test experimental protocols to see what kind of effect they have over time. Since the articles often write up the protocols in a fairly in-depth manner, I decided to reproduce that training for your benefit. Take a look at the first three training protocols, which include finger strength, contact strength, and core training.
SEE EXPERIMENTAL TRAINING
Talent development data from a winning program is in!
The Bend Endurance Academy recently did really well at the USA Climbing Bouldering Youth National Championships (placing 8th out of 88 teams), and now we have some data on what makes their program effective. If you don’t remember the TDEQ, it takes past research on all of the non-sport specific “environmental” factors that influence elite athlete development and provides information on it in an easy-to-digest format. Bend Endurance Academy’s coach and I collaborated on the analysis and I wrote it up, in the hopes that you can take advantage. Enjoy! READ MORE
Consulting at the Bouldering Youth National Championships
The Beta Angel Project’s Director went to Bend, Oregon to consult with a handful of youth athletes at the USA Climbing Bouldering Youth National Championships.The job of a coach at these events often involves: (1) preparing athletes physically and mentally; (2) monitoring events that may require an understanding of performance issues and technical rules, and; (3) discussing new ideas and future improvement with coaches and competitors. Below are pictures of Taylor with three athletes he regularly consults with: Arabella Jariel, Charlie Osborne, and Abigail Humber. SEE CONSULTING SERVICES >
Sent from Collaborators
Tom Randall over at Lattice Training sent me a fantastic article on how we should potentially rethink how ‘atrophy’ and ‘cell death’ work. The suggestion in the article is that the cells may not be entirely gone. Since individuals frequently undergo a ‘cycle’ of muscle development and degeneration, past cell degeneration may be an advantage for later improvement. I sent the article over to a few people, including Eva López, for possible practical applications to climbing. SEE THE ARTICLE ON THE “FRONTIERS IN PHYSIOLOGY” WEBSITE
Updates to the Research Inventory
Help make the content on the Beta Angel Project a living resource! If you want me to qualify or change anything in these summaries, contact me!
- Ultrasound evaluation of stress injuries and physiological adaptations in the fingers of adolescent competitive rock climbers
Author: K. Garcia, D. Jaramillo, E. Rubesova | Year: 2017
- Physiological responses during two climbing tests with different hold types
Author: Michail L Michailov, Robert Rokowski, Tomasz Ręgwelski, Robert Staszkiewicz, Lee E Brown, Zbigniew Szygula | Year: 2017
- Skill transfer, affordances and dexterity in different climbing environments
Author: L. Seifert, L. Wattebled, M. L’Hermette, G. Bideault, R. Herault, K. Davids | Year: 2013
- Entropy as a global variable of the learning process
Author: P. Cordier, MM France, J. Pailhous, B. Bolon | Year: 1994
- Circular wrist tape – How to correctly use this technique in climbing and bouldering
Author: C. Lutter, V. Schöffl | Year: 2017