Athlete Sienna Kopf learning to get comfortable with the scrunch. Image by Jennie Jariel.
I didn’t want to leave you without some practical options. I know very few people have the time and inclination to become an expert, but since you’re here – at least read the titles below!
If we know about specific injuries, how injury patterns are changing and trends evolving, and about the principles associated with these trends, we can:
WALK AWAY: make in-the-moment choices that help us give “pitch counts” to our training.
- Ex. Know the injury potential of hold types, movement, and your own injury history, demographics, and habits to make informed decisions on when to stay away, or walk away.
- I use “movement” goals (e.g. sticking the movement, rather than the hold) to provide a positive impetus to walk away in the case of a risky moves.
MOVE AROUND: choose to diversify our hold and movement types.
- Ex. Diversification of grip type (not necessarily hold type) and movement type in a single training session, or across training sessions, may not provide the same level of training stimulus, but it may manage your risk.
DISTRIBUTE IMPACT: strengthen our ability to NOT avoid the move by diversifying the risk away from a single point of contact, through:
- strength training of “supportive” muscle groups
- progressive climbing-specific training of “symbiotic” parts of our body to strengthen technical patterns:
- Ex. Eccentric loading through the “shockload” of a deadpoint can be mitigated by pushing force from underneath (e.g. legs), stabilizing force (e.g. “core”, posterior chain, positioning), your opposite arm’s strength, timing (“deadpoint”), training (system training), and others.
- finessing technical patterns with climbing physiotherapists and climbing coaches to (a) become resilient to stress, or (b) mitigate stress under non-ideal technical scenarios.
UNDERSTAND TRENDS: be aware of trends in indoor training.
- Ex. Others are getting injured in similar ways, identify how; An area may have a specific-hold type; Setters may have a “theme:” identify it; analyze your own habits, etc.
BECOME KNOWLEDGEABLE: read from experienced practitioners.
- One Move Too Many, Make or Break, Climb Injury Free, Climbing Injuries Solved
- Check out the Beta Angel Project’s Injury Research Section.
SUPPORT RESEARCH AND ACCESS TO SPORTS DOCS AND PHYSIOTHERAPISTS: Push sponsorship of research in order to understand the true cost of climbing and get better access to physiotherapists.
- Ex. Talk with climbing gyms and climbing companies about developing partnerships with researchers in order to build better systems of tracking injuries.
- Break down barriers to allow climbers to access physiotherapists and athletic trainers – arguably the front lines of risk mitigation.
- Zack DiCristino, USA Climbing’s Physiotherapist, recommends an easy resource to check out your state’s laws on access to PTs.
- Get your local PT to get involved in the “worldwide community of climbing physiotherapists.”
- Ex. Consider reaching out to Beta Angel for recommendations on researchers to contribute to, like the C-HIPPER Project Collaboration in Spain.
- Ex. Support doesn’t have to be monetary-based, it could be social media “shares,” “likes,” etc.
- Anyone on the front lines of climber engagement (gyms, athletes, magazines, Beta Angel, etc.) has the opportunity to re-frame the narrative toward better information gathering, possibly creating better resources informed by medical professionals