The site has gone live to the world and it’s beginning to see media attention.  Below are a selection; two that I wrote which are highlighted on TrainingBeta and Rock and Ice Magazine’s respective websites and one international article you may have to use google translate to read.


Let’s start with the general: Matt Pincus and Neely Quinn over at Trainingbeta were kind enough to give me a soapbox to tell you: “why Beta Angel.”  A brief summary: the website is intended to showcase research and identify the practical implications of that research.  It highlights three examples of areas of the res

earch that have informed my coaching: pulley injuries, fatigue in contact strength, and female shoulder training.  Finally, it provides a few examples of how you can engage: “like” the Facebook page and comment on posts about research with ideas about how to make it more practical.  Read the blog and scan the inventory, then use the contact page to tell me what you’re interested in.

You can read more at this link to TrainingBeta’s website.

Option 2

Rock and Ice Magazine

Rock and Ice Magazine’s Michael Levy was kind enough to showcase what research came out of 2017.  There were 33 research articles which were published in 2017 (that I could find).  While the largest percentage continues to be published on injuries, 2017 had some fantastic examples of climbers building on research to offer us more information on climbing economy and the use of energy systems.  Several practical examples include: temperature effects finger endurance more than finger strength, you can use a hangboard to influence at least one measure of contact strength, and incorporating principles of adaptation to uncertainty in a climbing move may be beneficial for training’s translation to performance.

You can read more at this link to Rock and Ice Magazine’s website.


Finally, a website out of Brazil (I think) called picked up on my website.  I was a huge fan of their suggestion that my website is essentially designed to combat the Dunning-Kruger effect.  Here’s the quote I liked the best: “Americans interested in also providing scientific knowledge, to stifle the voices of those who have illusory superiority, created the site The Beta Angel Research Project.”  To say we’re amused would be to put it mildly.

You can read more (with the help of a translator) at this link to Blogdescalada’s website.

Some interesting notes

On any given day international visitors make a surprising percentage of visitors. Brazil and the UK are high on that list, likely because of the blogdescalada article and because a handful of coaches in the UK managed to find my website before I made it public.  The Data Collection and Research Inventory pages flip back and forth on any given day as the #1 and #2 visited sections.

Taylor at the the Beta Angel Research Project

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