Research > Syntheses > “MOVESCI: OPTIMAL Theory”
OPTIMAL Theory stands for “Optimizing performance through intrinsic motivation and attention for learning”. It was formally proposed by Dr. Gabriele Wulf and Dr. Rebecca Lewthwaite. Very simply, this theory asks practitioners to marry the science of MOTIVATION with the science of ATTENTION to improve performance movement in athletes.
The two elements of MOTIVATION that OPTIMAL theory focuses on are improving their sense of positive feeling toward their training (called enhanced expectancies) and improving an athlete’s control over their training (called autonomy). The main element of ATTENTION that OPTIMAL theory focuses on is the environment (an external focus of attention) which is different from a focus on the body (internal focus).
Benefits to an athlete can come by enhancing expectations and giving control to the learner. Specifically, positive experiences stimulate a dopamine-related response which enhances movement learning. These benefits may be brought about as a result of: deeper commitment to more relevant information, error estimation, self-regulation, or simply improving motivation generally.
Improving Motivation
A Coach can improve motor learning through motivation in two ways. First, by (1) enhancing positive experiences and (2) setting realistic expectations. Some examples below.
- Praise work and development over an interpretation of inherent ability.
- For example, use “that was some nice climbing” as opposed to “You’re a great climber”.
- Find situations where you can argue that a climber did well.
- For example: “Yeah, I know you fell at the top but the move just before it required a lot of timing and precision, and you set yourself up well before you went for it. I was really impressed.”
- Attempt to give feedback on the best example of a bunch of goes.
- For example: “Your 2nd go in that group was the best. You slid the wall incredibly well.”
- Be careful when using social comparisons, and when you do attempt to make the social comparison positive.
- For example: “Yeah, Jack is an excellent deadpointer, but you just made that deadpoint look every bit as smooth. Minimal shock load and everything!”
- Movement / motivation can be improved by moderating the level of difficulty.
- For example: “That looked challenging. Let me build you a similar problem / give you a support-hold to master that type of movement.”
- If using video, consider the best examples of them executing what you want.
- For example: “This is a fantastic example of you executing this move / cue well.”
A coach can also improve motor learning in a second way: by giving some control to the learner. Some examples are below.
- Give the athlete control over attempts.
- For example: “How many attempts do you want for that problem?” or “How much time do you want to work on that technique?”
- Giving them the option of which support mechanism or facilitation device to use.
- For example: “We have to do something different. Do you want to climb into the end position, use a support hold, or space it out and come back in 20 minutes?
- Allowing control over when they receive feedback will make them more receptive.
- Try “Do you want feedback/beta” or “Can I give you help after 3 attempts?”
- Giving athletes choice is indicative of “autonomy-supportive” rather than “controlling” coaching. However, you can still guide them by subtly shifting the language. Use “you may want to / consider” instead of “you must / shouldn’t”
- Examples: “Do you want to try the active flag or would you prefer the drop-knee beta first” and “have you considered using either the plyometric or concentric techniques?”
- Allow athletes choice over time and order of activities / stretches, etc. Even choices incidental to the task are helpful.
- For example: choosing whether they want to have a water bottle with them during the workout near the task.
An External Focus of Attention
A coach can improve the way an athlete moves by using external cues (outside the body) and analogies rather than internal cues. This may improve movement kinematics and accelerate to later stages of learning by focusing on the “task goal” or “effect” of the movement, rather than the body movement itself.
- Shift attention to something outside the body.
- For example: “Push through the lower hold” or “imagine squishing bugs” rather than “use more foot tension.”
- You may even provide a small piece of chalk on the hold to “squish” or a target on the wall to attempt to get the center-of-mass to.
- An external focus may: increase and appropriately modulate force; improve balance and accuracy; enhance automaticity; boost speed and endurance; better muscle recruitment and coordination; allow for faster feedback loops between various joints when one needs to compensate for another.
- Try “imagine moving the hold to the left” instead of “push your body to the right” AND/OR “perch that foothold like a flamingo” instead of “shift your knee over your foot”.
- An “internal focus” may “freeze degrees of freedom” and cause an over-reliance on thinking through the movements step-by-step. However, this may be helpful under specific circumstances, such as early skill development or “re-training.”
- Examples of an internal focus include: “Engage your biceps” or “Shift your hips.”
Other Attentional Focus Research
- Implicit vs. Explicit Learning: Some research suggests that any ‘explicit’ instructional cues should be kept to a minimum to avoid over-thinking. The OPTIMAL authors are both supportive but also skeptical about the extent to which this is true. They recommend that the goal and the action be bound together – preferably using “implicit” techniques such as external language cues (or the constraints-led approach).
- See also: McMasters Reinvestment and “micro-choking” under pressure.
- See also: the self-invoking trigger hypothesis as a function of self-reflection.
- Quiet Eye: a tactic that appears to impact accuracy positively. After setting up for the move, give one final “gaze” at the target for at least 100ms prior to movement execution. This may be similar to using an external focus of attention, and/or it may reduce cognitive load.
- Mindfulness Training: focused training – often including breathing exercises – to clear or reset the mind or reduce cognitive load if over-thinking is occurring. For example, box breathing off-the-wall or using tactile elements (focusing on the feeling of “chalk” for example).
- Self-talk: use either motivational self-talk to improve confidence OR instructional / informational self-talk – specifically with external cues – to improve specific performance.
If you’re interested in the science, see the reference section. If you’re interested in a more in-depth use in a climbing performance practical setting, come find me in Boulder, CO or meet me at the next International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) conference.
OPTIMAL theory Paper 1 – Long Version
OPTIMAL theory Paper 2 – Short Version
The Beta Angel Project 