These videos were all developed before the Beta Angel Project kicked off. Much of our thinking has changed. Rather than take them down, however, I hope you take a peek in order to see how the type of analysis we do is evolving.
- Bent vs. Straight Arms
- Rock Climbing Technique — Janja vs. Anak
- HOW TO train Rock Climbing Finger Strength on Speed – Building Timing (Part 2)
- HOW TO train Rock Climbing Finger Strength on Speed — Building Contact Strength (Part 1)
- Learn Opposition-style Climbing
- Learn Compression Climbing
- Learn Creative Climbing Techniques for Efficiency
- Learn the climbing heel hook (with a cameo by the ‘toe vector’)
- Learn to Progress your Dynamic Climbing skills
- Learn the Technical Climbing Toe Hook
- Learn how to Prevent Rock Climbing Injuries
- Learn how to be a rock climbing footwork master!
- Learn HOW TO train Rock Climbing Finger Strength
- Learn What Rock Climbing Footwork REALLY Is
- Learn Rock Climbing Principles
Bent vs. Straight Arms
The Beta Angel Project identifies a moment during the World Championships of Paris in September 2016 when two climbers use opposing techniques to execute a move. Traditional wisdom is that climbing with straight arms is better. Analysis shows the trade-offs between both methods.
Rock Climbing Technique — Janja vs. Anak
An analysis of the move which won Janja Garnbret the Villars 2016 Lead Climbing World Cup.
HOW TO train Rock Climbing Finger Strength on Speed – Building Timing (Part 2)
The second in a three part series on Contact Strength. Beta Angel Dana Bleiberg shows us how timing for the body and hands can help your contact strength.
HOW TO train Rock Climbing Finger Strength on Speed — Building Contact Strength (Part 1)
The first in a three part Beta Angel series on Contact Strength.
Learn Opposition-style Climbing
Learn what to look for with oppositional climbing. In this video, the Coach wrestles with volumes. Thanks go out to Earth Treks’ setters, especially Skilla, for the awesome climb!
Learn Compression Climbing
Technique-oriented. This video is meant to help the climbing community with compression style problems. It provides a few helpful techniques in a format that attempts to identify typical problems and solutions for compression climbing.
Learn Creative Climbing Techniques for Efficiency
The coach highlights some fun rock climbing techniques to increase efficiency by manipulating your center of gravity while using hand, elbow and knee creativity.
Learn the climbing heel hook (with a cameo by the ‘toe vector’)
Evolv Athlete Dana Bleiberg shows us some principles behind heel hooking effectively. Evolv Coach Taylor Reed introduces the ‘toe vector’ in a cameo role.
Learn to Progress your Dynamic Climbing skills
Learn how Evolv athlete and beta-Angel Dana Bleiberg progresses through a one-two and a double dyno.
Learn the Technical Climbing Toe Hook
Evolv athlete and beta-Angel Dana Bleiberg shows us a technical trick to play with in certain circumstances where you need to use a toe hook.
Learn how to Prevent Rock Climbing Injuries
Taylor Reed shows the Columbus, OH climbing team some helpful tips for injury prevention in climbing. This video was inspired by many of the mentors and coaches I’ve worked with over the years, including Chad Gilbert and Rob Mulligan.
Learn how to be a rock climbing footwork master!
Learn to use precise movement through this basic series of videos
Learn HOW TO train Rock Climbing Finger Strength
Taylor shows one of his favorite techniques for developing finger strength.
Learn What Rock Climbing Footwork REALLY Is
A rock climbing video about footwork.
Learn Rock Climbing Principles
A climbing video discussing principles of climbing.